Dash Panel Material
#71
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Dave,
Why 20W50? Isn’t it pretty much the prescription for marine engines? It’s certainly what is prescribed in the Merc specs.
I didn’t intentionally short buy. I just had the 5qt+ jug thing in my head, and somehow thought that two jugs would give me one more qt than I needed. I just didn’t make the conversion in my head when I bought two gallon jugs. Brain dead moment.
Still curious if anybody’s used Lucas or an equivalent.
Thanks. Brad.
Why 20W50? Isn’t it pretty much the prescription for marine engines? It’s certainly what is prescribed in the Merc specs.
I didn’t intentionally short buy. I just had the 5qt+ jug thing in my head, and somehow thought that two jugs would give me one more qt than I needed. I just didn’t make the conversion in my head when I bought two gallon jugs. Brain dead moment.
Still curious if anybody’s used Lucas or an equivalent.
Thanks. Brad.
Last edited by Brad Christy; 03-31-2024 at 08:24 AM.
#72
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Bajaman,
I’ve been using K&N on my truck for a while now. If for no other reason than the hex on the end is a good workaround for GM’s propensity to not give you any access to the circumference of the filter to change it.
Thanks for the P#.
Thanks. Brad.
I’ve been using K&N on my truck for a while now. If for no other reason than the hex on the end is a good workaround for GM’s propensity to not give you any access to the circumference of the filter to change it.
Thanks for the P#.
Thanks. Brad.
Last edited by Brad Christy; 03-31-2024 at 08:25 AM.
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bajaman (03-31-2024)
#73
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Guys,
The new dash panel is finally right and in the hands of the vinyl shop for the wrap. Still don’t have the Gaffrig gauge in hand yet, but it’s on its way.
Looks like getting the filter mount out, and more to the point, back in, to do the modification for the oil temp sender is going to be a hoot. Three of the four bolts will be a breeze to get out. They are right out in the open. But one is kinda “landlocked” by the intercooler. Getting it out may not be that hard. It’ll just have to be the last one to be removed. Getting it back together, though, is gonna be a serious PITA….
Thanks. Brad.
The new dash panel is finally right and in the hands of the vinyl shop for the wrap. Still don’t have the Gaffrig gauge in hand yet, but it’s on its way.
Looks like getting the filter mount out, and more to the point, back in, to do the modification for the oil temp sender is going to be a hoot. Three of the four bolts will be a breeze to get out. They are right out in the open. But one is kinda “landlocked” by the intercooler. Getting it out may not be that hard. It’ll just have to be the last one to be removed. Getting it back together, though, is gonna be a serious PITA….
Thanks. Brad.
Last edited by Brad Christy; 04-02-2024 at 08:46 PM.
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87MirageIntruder (04-03-2024)
#74
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Guys,
Gauge is in. Bezel is in. Signal wire from sender is ran. I just need to wire the gauge in. Or, at least, get the wiring in place, ready to make the connections for when the dash panel is done. Am I correct in thinking I can just daisy chain off the keyed ignition power, running light power and ground from a nearby gauge?
Thanks. Brad.
Gauge is in. Bezel is in. Signal wire from sender is ran. I just need to wire the gauge in. Or, at least, get the wiring in place, ready to make the connections for when the dash panel is done. Am I correct in thinking I can just daisy chain off the keyed ignition power, running light power and ground from a nearby gauge?
Thanks. Brad.
#75
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Yes you are correct.
#76
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#77
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Brad, its not that bad, It just looks intimidating because of the amount of wiring, but in all reality you have many duplicates like the reds (power) Blacks(ground) and purple(ign) blue (lights) the rest are the actual sending unit wires for the gauges. You can take some zip ties and bundle the groups together as you disconnect the gauges and just use some painters tape to label what gauges that bundle is from. here's a list of the "standard" wires you would find.....there are more if you do searches but these should cover most of them in the dash part anyway. The switches are different...you will have a red wire for the main power feed....then there will be the feed wire to the device its turning on and that may be any color the installer wants in some cases but 90% of the time its also a red wire. You may also have a black wire for a ground if the switch lights up when turned on.
Dont be intimidated by the mess...just take you time and go systematically one by one and you'll be fine. A good test light or meter also helps.
It could be worse....you could have a "friend" try and help you by taking everything apart before you get there and not label anything!
Some before and after i was done a few hours later.
Is there a standard wire color for oil temp? It's a little too late, as the wire is already routed (white, because it wasn't on this chart). Just curious....
Thanks. Brad.
#78
Charter Member # 55
Charter Member
Guys,
<Sheepish grin>.......
Speaking of getting it right the first time... Somehow, I got it in my head that I needed a Livorsi gauge. So, I ordered it, and waited. It was shipped today. Opening the box, it immediately didn't look right. So, I crawled up into the boat. The dash cluster is still hanging loose in the dash cavity, so I grabbed one and held it up to the new gage to confirm. Yup. I needed a GAFFRIG.....
New, CORRECT gauge is on order. Hopefully, I will be able to return this Livorsi. If not, it will make its way over to the SwapShop. At the end of the day, I ain't out that much if they won't let me return it and I can't get it sold.
Otherwise....
Project is moving along nicely. I have the new dash panel drawn and had a clear acrylic template laser cut to verify placement of gauges. After a slight adjustment to gauge positioning, I fired off a PO to the sheet metal shop to laser cut one from .080" aluminum.
I've also made a new bezel for the trim tab indicator and had it powder coated. The color couldn't have been a better match.
Thanks. Brad.
<Sheepish grin>.......
Speaking of getting it right the first time... Somehow, I got it in my head that I needed a Livorsi gauge. So, I ordered it, and waited. It was shipped today. Opening the box, it immediately didn't look right. So, I crawled up into the boat. The dash cluster is still hanging loose in the dash cavity, so I grabbed one and held it up to the new gage to confirm. Yup. I needed a GAFFRIG.....
New, CORRECT gauge is on order. Hopefully, I will be able to return this Livorsi. If not, it will make its way over to the SwapShop. At the end of the day, I ain't out that much if they won't let me return it and I can't get it sold.
Otherwise....
Project is moving along nicely. I have the new dash panel drawn and had a clear acrylic template laser cut to verify placement of gauges. After a slight adjustment to gauge positioning, I fired off a PO to the sheet metal shop to laser cut one from .080" aluminum.
I've also made a new bezel for the trim tab indicator and had it powder coated. The color couldn't have been a better match.
Thanks. Brad.
You need to run the correct hertz sender for the gauge
#79
Charter Member # 55
Charter Member
Dave,
Why 20W50? Isn’t it pretty much the prescription for marine engines? It’s certainly what is prescribed in the Merc specs.
I didn’t intentionally short buy. I just had the 5qt+ jug thing in my head, and somehow thought that two jugs would give me one more qt than I needed. I just didn’t make the conversion in my head when I bought two gallon jugs. Brain dead moment.
Still curious if anybody’s used Lucas or an equivalent.
Thanks. Brad.
Why 20W50? Isn’t it pretty much the prescription for marine engines? It’s certainly what is prescribed in the Merc specs.
I didn’t intentionally short buy. I just had the 5qt+ jug thing in my head, and somehow thought that two jugs would give me one more qt than I needed. I just didn’t make the conversion in my head when I bought two gallon jugs. Brain dead moment.
Still curious if anybody’s used Lucas or an equivalent.
Thanks. Brad.
#80
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Mine are Gaffrig Performance. I just checked, and the impedance of the sender I bought is 29150-1270ohms. Any clue what sender impedance the Performance gauges need? I guess I'm gonna have to call Gaffrig and find out the correct impedance for the sender. Near as I can tell, their website is of zero help on the matter.
Thanks. Brad.