Ryan,

Good, bad or otherwise, the gimbal bearing is about the only thing I didn’t replace while it was apart. Maybe I should….

Mercruiser Gimbal Bearing

This the right one?

Thanks. Brad.

Should be, but wouldn't hurt to confirm with your serial number. You will need the special puller to get the old one out. I'm not saying you need to replace it if the old one feels ok, but while it's apart if it was me I definitely would.

Ryan,

Builder has the tools. Confirms to be the right part.

Question.... Is there any way the bell housing could be slightly out of alignment? Farqing around with it this afternoon, I've pretty much concluded the coupler is high, relative to the gimbal bearing. By the time I tilt the engine up far enough for my makeshift alignment tool to go in, it binds up in a way that tells me the engine is tilted too far. Something is off in the rear, and I can't figure out what.

Thanks. Brad.

Guys….

Welp…..

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...e2c9a3f0b.jpeg

Must have gotten hit on the way in. We wondered where the oil came from. Figured it had just come out of the filter block-off cap, since it had open AN fittings on it. Guess not.

Pretty sure the engine is coming back out. Farq….

Thanks. Brad.

there is always something going south when doing this...
well, not always, but too often ! Better laugh at it
what else can we do !!! ??? LOL !!!

make sure you torque the new fitting to the oil pan, that usually happens if you over tighten the fitting, been there done that,

Brad,

Did you replace the engine coupler? If not, the coupler splines could be worn some, thus more “pointy” and that will make the alignment tool difficult to get into the coupler, yet a drive shaft will still slide in easily.

if you are pulling the engine again, slide that alignment tool into the coupler. If the teeth are pointy, either replace coupler, or slam that alignment tool into. (I had this issue on my two engines when I bought it, as my drive couplers are probably due to be replaced). After that, then I could align it.

as others already said, the magic is to get the alignment tool at the coupler inlet and whack that tool on the top, bottom and sides to get the gimbal bearing to square up at the angle of the coupling.

Chris

Chris,

We did not. I don't think that's the issue, as the tool steel shaft I'm using is actually slightly larger in diameter than the spline section of the alignment tool, and it fits like a glove, individually, so I know the alignment tool will fit into the coupler when alignment is found.

Thanks. Brad.

While you have the engine back out, make sure you have the right set of parts in place for the rear mounts.. I'm not sure what your drive serial number is, but somewhere around the time of your stuff, mercruiser switched from using the double wound lock washer to not using it, which would mess up the height of the rear mounts. I'd triple check everything serial number wise and make sure you have the right combination of stuff.
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...e79dcbc003.png
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...7e99e6468c.png

Also, yes, change the gimbal bearing lol.. With all your stuff already off, its like a 10 minute job.. as long as you have or rent a slide hammer from the auto parts store (its free)..
While I'm at it, I'll give a shameless plug for my own video lol..

AShipShow,

Fortunately, we are not pulling the engine. I was able to lift and tilt the engine enough to gain access to the lower end of the dipstick tube and remove the broken part. Fortunately, the broken section that was in the oil pan came out pretty easily with some picking with my thumbnail.

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...04916e742.jpeg
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...279dde5a5.jpeg

I am in the process of making a replacement out of 316ss, and it should be back together by this time tomorrow.

Ironically, I think I was actually starting to get somewhere on the alignment thing. I used a come-a-long hung from the rafters of my building to lift the rear of the engine. I was hoping to gain access to the bits you refer to, but the extended snout of the coupler hit a rib on the transom plate, and limited the lift. I tried feeling between the bell housing mounting points and the transom plate, but couldn’t really tell anything. So I lowered it back into place. By whatever means, I think it settled in a bit lower, and I was starting to make some headway when the broken dipstick tube was discovered. As soon as I get that all back together, I’ll start back on that effort. News at eleven….

Yes. We will be installing a new gimbal bearing. Should be in hand tomorrow.

Thanks. Brad.

Guys,

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...e7e72bc18.jpeg
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...89a0f054e.jpeg

Replacement part made for the piece that broke. Now to just put it all back together and get the engine back in place.

Thanks. Brad.

Nice machining Brad.

Some advice...don't even hint to the CFO how much time you're spending on this...

Lining things up, and having zero joy, and ads to the issues that promote stress and deny critical thinking.

Some good info on this post on how to prep for an engine/drive install.

Also a good practice once you get engine and drive in, is to check crank endplay, ensuring the crank didn't get pinched/or pushed.

Guys,

On to the next conundrum….

In the process of this, in an effort to preserve the 555 harness, I bought a new 10-pin cannon harness, which the builder grafted back to the engine. I’m now working on finalizing the remaining wiring; specifically the trim stuff. I’ve got three wires coming from the cannon harness, and found three matching wires coming from ”the boat”, going into the cannon plug:

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...80d9cb81f.jpeg
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...741ae2a65.jpeg

And I found these wires/connecters coming from the 555 harness, labeled "transom harness":

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...d6936b6a1.jpeg

I have matching connecters at the transom plate. The two bullet connectors are the limit switch, per labeling of the two matching wires on the harness, (which I’m assuming are interchangeable, seeing it’s just a switch) and the three-wire connecter should be the trim sender, but which wire is which…? The colors are different from the cannon harness (grey, tan and brown/white) and the transom plate connecter (all black, one not labeled, the other two labeled "B" and C"). I’ve tried looking up the cannon plug wiring, but I haven’t found a 496 specific diagram, and it would appear that Merc substituted some of the cannon plug wires that are not used for the 496 for these trim connections.

Any Help?

Thanks. Brad.

Do you have a 3 wire trim sender? or 2 wire? If you have a smartcraft system with 3 wire, you will use that 3 wire plug as that is for the "digital trim" sender...
As for the wiring, I don't remember which is power and which is ground, but I do remember that the orange wire is the sensor feedback to the smartcraft system.
Unless you can find the wiring diagram somewhere, you might need to give the engine power and measure the voltage on the gray and black wires to see what the polarity is.

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...62eca8e15.jpeg
It looks like based on this diagram that the gray wire is power, and the black is ground

AShipShow,

It is a 3-wire connecter, and the transom ass'y is SmartCraft, but I don't think it was actually in use.

I'm gathering that the three wires that are exiting the cannon plug have nothing to do with the trim sender or limit. Interwebs seems pretty adamant the grey is tach signal and tan in engine temp signal to audible dash alarm.

I just need to be connect the trim sender to the gage at the dash and connect the limit switch. I'm assuming that "B" in your diagram is the limit switch and "E" is the sender connecter...? Does all this have to go through the SmartCraft committee wiring?

Thanks. Brad.

My 496 setup is a 2006 and doesn't use the trim limit.. I guess that is handled through the smartcraft?? It only uses the 3 wire digital trim connector (E) and the two analog trim sender wires for the gauge (bullet connectors on my harness, orange with white stripe and black).

AShipShow,

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...ab9628163.jpeg

That’s what I have. The connecter to the right is capped (bridged?), and is labeled “steering/speedo pitpot”

But I’m not using any of that anymore. The entire 555 harness has been replaced with the Holley HP harness, which obviously has NONE of this.

I’m just hoping someone can tell me how to connect the sender to the gage. I could even go without the limit switch, if I have to, if I have a gauge.

Thanks. Brad.

The three wires in your pictures are: gray - tach, tan - temp sender to gauge, brown/white - trim sender to gauge
If your not using the 3 wire digital trim sender, then you will need to make sure you have the 2 wire analog sender for the gauge and 2 wire limit switch - this should be the kit part number

Mercruiser 805320A03 Power Trim Sender Kit Alpha/Bravo 2 Wire

Brad,
Does your transom harness have these two bullet connectors?? They are the ones that go to the gauge using the 2 wire analog trim sender.
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...9c98dafbbe.jpg

AShipShow,

No. This is the "Transom Harness":

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...ab9628163.jpeg

The two bullet connecters are labled "Trim Limit", and have matching connecters at the transom plate. Also at the transom plate is a 3-wire connecter that matches the 3-wire connecter in this pic.

I have all that stuff in the kit you spec'd, already installed. Has been since the boat was new. Maybe mine is "SmartCraft", and won't work with a direct wire to the dash....?

Understood on the grey, tan and black/brown wires.

Thanks. Brad.

AShipShow,

After a conversation with Merc tech, I have to order a new trim sender; the PN you spec'd. I'll have to either trace or run new wires from the dash to the transom and we should be off to the races. But this resolves the sender. How does the limit switch splice into it all?

Thanks. Brad.

This is how the limit switch works in the system.. When you push the up button, power flows through the purple/white wire through the trim limit switch and into the trim pump solenoid and so-on... If the drive is too high, the limit switch opens and won't allow the up button to work and you will have to use a trailer button to raise the drive further.
If you're no longer using your transom harness, you'll have to rummage around the bilge and find the wires coming back from the control at the helm and determine the wires that are used for trim control.
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...76f49e363d.jpg

AShipShow,

That's pretty much what I was guessing. Time to start digging....

Thanks. Brad.

Guys,

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...1b21d893a.jpeg
Starboard side

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...af3fde79d.jpeg
Port side

OK. So which one’s which? I went in there expecting the 3-wire unit to be the sender. What gives….?

The TWO bullet connecters on the harness are labeled “trim limit”…..

Thanks. Brad.

Guys,

It appears the unit labeled "SENDER", starboard side, had been replaced at some point, via solder and liquid tape. Conveniently, this allowed me to establish continuity between it and one of the two bullet connectors inside the transom. Does this mean I already HAVE the analog sender? Or are both the analog and digital senders "2-wire"? Additionally, is the limit switch a 3-wire? Have I been looking at it backwards the whole time? If so, why three wires for a switch?

Thanks. Brad.

Guys,

I've also managed to trace a brown/white wire from the trim gauge, through the cannon plug, and it IS the brown wire hanging loose I referred to earlier. So, at least, I have figured out what to connect to the bullet connecter. I'm guessing the other one goes to ground? Like the oil temp sender I have wired in to the filter block?

Additionally, we established varying resistance through the sender as the actuator is rotated. Does THIS mean it is already an analog sender?

Thanks. Brad.

Guys,

Got new analog sender and limit switch in hand. Gonna go ahead and replace them both while I've got it apart.

Back to the issue that's got me bugged. I'm going to check for continuity between the trim/trailer switches and the solenoid before cutting anything, but.... Assuming there's a break in the "up" wire, for the purpose of the limit switch, somewhere between the rocker switch and the solenoid on the trim pump, that was NOT the limit switch itself (that was laced into the engine harness for god know whatever reason), and I cannot find it, I am feeling compelled to just rerun the two wires (trim "up" and trailer) from the trim rocker switch and the trailer switch back to the "up" solenoid. With whatever involvement the SmartCraft had in the process of limiting up trim gone, I can't see an issue with this. I don't see a reason to rerun the "down" wire, as it should just be straight through from the trim switch to the solenoid.

Am I on the right track?

Thanks. Brad.

Brad,
Yea, Apparently the smartcraft setup limited the trim using the 3 wire sender... Since you're ditching that sender and going with only analog and trim limit switch, its probably just worth running new wires straight to the helm per that picture I sent in post #544. I'm assuming you are removing the entire engine harness and using one for your specific setup so I don't know how using the existing transom harness would play out.. I'd just start from scratch for trim limit, or eliminate it all together.

AShipShow,

We ripped the entire 496/555 harness out by the roots. Theres literally nothing left of it.

Thanks. Brad.

Guys,

Any reason for this?

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...b40063c4d.jpeg
Back side of trailer switch, showing both output lugs in use

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...2e6d04237.jpeg
Both wires joined with a butt connecter, with two wires on the other side

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...e46099a1d.jpeg
These two wires joining up with the two “down” wires

There is a purple wire running in tandem along with both the “up” and “down” wires all the way to the transom, at which point I lose track of them and I’m not willing to commit to the carnage required to further trace them.

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...8e231a2d7.jpeg
There are only the two wires terminating at the trim pump solenoids. Where did the two purple “tandem” wires go?

Are these extra wires all part of the SmartCraft setup, for the purpose of the “auto-trim” function (that I don’t have)? I don’t need to replicate that, right?

Thanks. Brad.

Brad,
I have not read all your post above but sounds like you might be having trim issues? and not sure if this has been mentioned.
if your having issues with your trim keep in mind input and output goes through your pcm,
last time i upgraded a 496 mag to a 496mag HO i send the ecus to whipple for recalibrating and when I got them back the trim did not work on either engine,
I resend them back they redid the calibration ,still didnt work.
talked to dustin and he wasnt sure why that was happening so he send out 2 new ecu, plugged them in and trim worked fine,

BoatNT,

I don’t blame you for not reading it all. It’s several hundred posts deep at this point. It’s been quite the roller coaster ride.

We ripped the 555 and its harness out by the roots. The engine now has a Holley HP ECM, and the trim is no longer going to be going through the ECM.

Thanks. Brad.

Guys,

We've got ONE last wire from the cannon plug to the ECM harness to sort out: the audible alarm. As it happens the builder has never had or worked on a boat that still had a functional one, and has never really dealt with it. Anybody know how it’s wired in the typical Merc configuration? Is it always hot, with the ECM providing a switched ground, or is it the other way around? In the meantime, he is working on configuring the ECM on parameters to trigger said alarm. Water temp, oil pressure and fuel pressure. Any other suggestions?

To update…. I tHiNk we have the engine aligned and locked down. I just today got the trim wiring wrapped up. I began prepping parts for dabbing up the exhaust after ditching the SilentChoice. My welder guy is supposed to come to the shop tomorrow and, with a bit of luck, we should have that wrapped up. Although, I do need to acquire some new wet exhaust hose to make the connection from the tails to the tips. I’m going a local marine service shop will have some on hand. Not holding my breath.

Thanks. Brad.

Yes, configure the safeties through a 2D advanced table, and have it shut the engine down the for critical issues. Low oil pressure, hot engine temp.

Rookie,

Yup. I'm leaving the configuring to the builder. He's familiar. I'll just farq it up.

I don't know if the HP has provisions for derating or shutting down or just triggering the alarm. Again, I'm leaving that to the builder. I'm sure he will get it right.

Thanks. Brad.

Yes, it can be configured to shut down. It's different than turning on alarms. That's why I mentioned the 2D advanced tables. You pull all fuel all fuel from the system when certain criteria are achieved so it shuts down. This is one of the number 1 reasons to go with an aftermarket EFI system, protect the engine. I lost a mechanical oil pressure gauge and ran my engine out of oil while at speed, it survived.

Guys,

A little update….

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...8e4ca3824.jpeg
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...1021ddf62.jpeg
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...15bf66e38.jpeg
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...bc094df57.jpeg
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...6f4931ec1.jpeg
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...1dbf066b2.jpeg
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...edb5115f5.jpeg

We spent some time getting the exhaust fabbed up after removing the SilentChoice diverters.

I’ll have the powder coated in heat resistant black after we get it running and everything sorted out.

Thanks. Brad.

home made again? Is there something you cant do ? Nice !