I`d start by losing that gay underwater exhaust, sorry , not sorry!

Dan,

Post #90. SilentChoice is coming out. And I’m not sorry, either. :ernaehrung004:

Thanks. Brad.

Merc probably does that so less things have to be disconnected/removed when pulling the engine

Ryan,

No doubt. Or, more to the point, so that there is the least number of connections required when installing the engine. Merc is designing as universal a plug-n-play component as they can. The less the rigger for the boat MFR has to do, the more engines Merc will sell them.

Thanks. Brad.

Yep, Eddie Young does the same.

Padraig

when swapping engines it makes less time in the bilge hooking stuff up. Also can run on the dyno and find leaks there, rather then upside down.

Dan,

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...4dbbc4648.jpeg

Happy now? :cool:

That’s some nice work you do,are you a machinist by trade ?

Craney,

Yup. While I don’t do much that requires welding, these are some pretty basic parts for me/us. I’m used to doing much more complex stuff.

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...c2a33a994.jpeg
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...c268b2c5e.jpeg
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...7b6803e8b.jpeg
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...a81a8dcda.jpeg
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...14257abdc.jpeg
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...c3d464dda.jpeg
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...590bc2856.jpeg
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...a7373bc0b.jpeg
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...f257d03fd.jpeg
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...1e48d4081.jpeg
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...aaf5d75c5.jpeg
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...0c1d60b0f.jpeg

I have a small shop here in Dayton. It’s nice when my personal interests and hobbies compliment each other.

Thanks. Brad.

Your boat still has cable steering on it?

Saw that also. That might need to be #1 priority before engine goes back in.
Brad, we're here to spend all of your money...

Rookie,

Been wondering....

It’s “power steering”. Has a pump and reservoir. Didn’t realize that was “cable” steering…..? Is that similar to “power assisted R&P” on a car?

Suggestions?

Thanks. Brad.

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...605cf82bc.jpeg
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...1e6a788ea.jpeg
Pretty sure I found the issue with the bilge pump.

It ran. But it was very “sticky”, screamed like a banshee, and stunk like burnt electronics.

Replacement is on its way.

Thanks. Brad.

Guys,

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...d671d8d92.jpeg
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...16ef434f3.jpeg
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...c2f0c69d3.jpeg
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...2c2c52c3b.jpeg

The offending piston. Looks like it got kinda ugly in there.

Builder seems to think it got hot, butted the ring ends, ripped the ring land out, then used those bits to smash their way through the crown. But if it was just an overheat, why just the one piston?

Thanks. Brad.

Had the same 496 ho detonation only on one cylinder
no one could find why
changed piston and ran without problem for years
never understood why it happened neither why it lasted after...

Steve smith said that injector was ok?
Builder didn’t think that hole got hit because it went lean?

If your air distribution caused an on the edge lean mixture on that port/cyl...a low fuel pressure scenario may have pushed it over the edge.

Likely a few issues converged to cause the heat and swelling of the piston crown and break-off.

This is why you're re-building and designing the fuel system tank to cyl.

Liberator,

Yes. Smitty gave the injectors a clean bill of health. Ran them to death on his test cell, and they performed flawlessly.

We may or may not have gone lean (it certainly appears we did), but it wasn’t the injectors’ fault. If I had to blame it on a single cylinder lean-out, my guess is a sizable paint fleck from the CoolFuel module is to blame. But that’s strictly a guess.

Thanks. Brad.

Tartilla,

Builder even has a fix for the intake….

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...6cad68f4c.jpeg

He opens up the underside, removes the dumbazz PCV valve, and cuts out what amounts to little more than an air dam, which significantly frees up airflow through the intake, and evens out distribution. We will then relocate a PCV valve and vent it properly to the intake side of the ProCharger. I’m making an extension collar, that will include a hose barb bung, for the intake breather/arrestor now.

Thanks. Brad.

Guys,

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...c801f7618.jpeg
I relocated the shift plate to the transom; starboard side. Like I said, nothing ON the engine that doesn’t need to be.

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...fc6312d93.jpeg

I cleaned up the horrid glass job as best I could. It looks like they sealed off the wood well enough before completely clusterfarqinng the glass job, so that’s good. I gave up on cleaning up the overflow of epoxy/resin. I’m tired of cleaning up the dust. It’s under the PeoCharger. Nobody’s ever going to see it. I will glass it over properly in the morning. I never expected to be doing glass work during an engine rebuild, but here we are….

Thanks.

That would drive me nuts. Get some 40 grit and smooth that chit out before you glass over it.
tomorrow is a new day and winter has barely started.

For you anyway, me I am going to jump in the pool. :evilb:

Wildman,

It bugs me, too, trust me. But it’s under the ProCharger, and on the inside of the stringer. The outside is much better, even if still still not perfect. I’m taking solace in the fact that nobody will ever see it. Even if they try. It has also occurred to me that we’ve owned the boat for three years, enjoyed the Hell out of the boat, and didn’t even know it was there..

If I get everything else wrapped up and we’re not yet ready to drop the engine back in, I might reconsider.

Thanks. Brad

Guys,

Any recommendations for a wherever-mountable remote oil filter mount? I’ve found several options. Just looking for opinions.

Thanks. Brad.

Guys,

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...4f5734cd4.jpeg
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...15febe29d.jpeg
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...c59565c50.jpeg

Got the ProCharger clearance cutout glasses in today. I also took Wildman’s advice and cleaned up some of that resin overdrip mess. It doesn’t really look like it, and it’s not perfect by a long shot, but it’s WAY better than it was.

Spent some time today fabbing up a mounting bracket for the FP regulator. I haven’t drilled any holes yet, but pretty well settled in on starboard side transom for both the fuel pump and filter. I think I may put the regulator there, too; just need to confirm whether some length of run between the fuel rail and the regulator is OK. I can either put it there, or on the back of the rear seat, bolting through into a storage space under the seat. Thoughts?

Thanks. Brad.

Guys,

So…. Builder just pointed out a potential issue with my proposed set up….

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...631562aa1.jpeg

Can this pump be mounted above the fuel level in the tank?

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...8db82612d.jpeg

Transom, starboard side. Planning as such: Pump is going in red circle. Filter is going in blue circle and regulator is going in green circle.
Thanks. Brad.

Brad, why everything on the transom? If or when you pull the motor, it just makes things more difficult. As for the fuel pump, it is my understanding that it should be mounted as low as possible.

Padraig

Padraig,

Not really. A couple fuel lines (at least one of which would need disconnected either way), a couple oil lines, and a few electrical connections, most of which will be gang connectors. The drive oil reservoir for sure doesn’t need to be mounted on the engine. I like the clean look. I’m a minimalist at heart.

I will examine options to get it lower, but it’s a big ol’ beast of a pump. At current plan, it’s pretty much sitting on the floor, and the tank is directly below the floor. I’m told that, once it’s primed, I’m good. Just thought I’d ask here for insight. I’ll probably call Weldon tomorrow and ask them.

Thanks. Brad.

Why are you using epoxy vs polyester or vinyl ester resin for that repair?

Rookie,

Two basic reasons:

1) Materials on hand.
2) Familiar territory.

I guess my question is, "Why not?" It works easily, wets out great, adheres very well, soaks into raw wood wonderfully, and, by my observation, cures harder, stronger and more chemically resistant than PE or VE resin (at least, WestSystems does). I can tell you that literally nobody who builds high-end, high performance composite model boats (as opposed to wood) uses anything but epoxy. There is an ongoing and everlasting debate over WHICH epoxy system to use, but they ALL use epoxy.

I obviously have no professional experience in fiberglass work, and there might be a valid reason PE and/or VE is still used in full-sized boat industry. But I used what I had and what I was familiar with, and I have full confidence that the repair will outlast me. I used WestSystems to seal up the freshly exposed raw wood when I did the pop-up cleats and when I used the PVC pipe trick and reattached the depth finder transducer, and both worked out well. In this case.

I wasn't so much interested in how it was going to look. It was pretty much too late for that. I only sought to seal up the wood and get rid of the cobbed up mess they left me with when whoever did it to begin with cobbed it up.

Thanks. Brad.

Brad,
I used a pair of these thermostatic filter housings on my Bullet rebuild. I have both motors running, but have not been in the water yet, so I can't vouch completely for their function. They seem to be a well made piece, small, compact and has options for thermostat temp. The picture in the ad shows it with -10 fitting installed, but they do not come with it. It does not come with the filter threads/bung either. Be sure to add four -10 O-ring fittings and the filter bung into the cost. I got mine through Summit.

https://www.improvedracing.com/remote-engine-transmission-oil-filter-mount-with-thermostat-env-171.html

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/IRP-HSC-5022-01

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...635e5066bb.jpg

Copy pasted from Weldons FAQ page Weldon Racing FAQs page answer many commonly asked questionsWhat position can I mount my Weldon pump? Can I mount it upside down? Can I mount the pump above the top of the fuel cell?

"The preferred mounting position is with the motor up and the pump end down, but it can be mounted horizontally or vertically. It is okay to mount a Weldon pump above the fuel tank / cell – they can lift as well as push the fuel. Although, if the pump is placed above the tank, the use of a one way check valve on the outlet of the pump to prevent the back flow of fuel into the tank, is recommended. Avoid mounting a Weldon pump at a 45 degree angle – this will cause an added load on the motor and pump bearings."

Yours is an older unit but it appears to be the same as the DB2025-A . I just got off the phone with Jim Craig there as I need to send one of mine in for overhaul. He's super helpful and knows his $hit on these.

Dave,

You beat me to it. :cool:

Yup. I just got off the phone with Jim Baker at Weldon Pumps. His phrase to me was, "Our pumps suck," and he made the exact same recommendation.

I am preparing to start drilling holes and mounting fuel delivery hardware. I have to make a leveling block that will allow for the mounting of the fuel filter true vertically, so I won't spill AS MUCH when it comes time to change it. I wanted to mount it someplace where fuel wouldn't spill on carpet, but it is just not in the cards. I'll just have to be careful and take mitigative precautions.

Thanks. Brad.

Guys,

So, what do we think?

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...249965a394.jpg

This is in no way dimensionally accurate, but you get the idea. We would cut the "trumpet" off the end of the inner tube, weld on an extension that actually telescopes over it, full seam welding at the base and spot welding through holes in the extension tube, toward the end of what is left of the existing inner tube, then weld on the new dam toward the end of the extension, then weld the outer tube, after proper length has been established on location, after the engine is back in the boat. The dam would have the same water exit parameters as the original elbow.

The idea is to get the water dump as far from the exhaust valves as possible and increase the slope back toward them. The elevation and tilt is provided by the riser blocks pictured above.

Thanks. Brad.

Are you running GIL manifolds? Wouldn't the HP500 risers work for you?

Liberator,

Nope. Stock Merc 496 manifolds. Which I’m told flow really well, due to them essentially being headers, cast as manifolds.

Thanks. Brad.

oh yeah forgot you were 496

Liberator,

Yup. The red-headed stepchild of the BBC family.

And it’s a 503 now. Get it right. :angry-smiley-038:

Thanks. Brad.

You're have to generate a manual for it now with all your changes...!!

Your riser extension plan sounds good. Those stock 496 risers are really short. Maybe just the CAD layout look as you mentioned.

The whole extension package looks amazing with the machined adapter blocks.

Tartilla,

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...60e482953.jpeg

The drawing probably is a bit off. It was just for illustrative purposes. I literally cobbed it together at (semi) random.

I’m going to assume that the little “trumpet” tip of the elbow is purely for the purpose of preventing water ingestion, and can be omitted for the modified version…..?

Thanks. Brad.

The bell opening likely pushes the raw water flow into the rubber hose. Maybe even speeding up the flow if the gap is small enough.

With the longer and taller riser system, you should be gtg.