That would drive me nuts. Get some 40 grit and smooth that chit out before you glass over it.
tomorrow is a new day and winter has barely started.

For you anyway, me I am going to jump in the pool.

Wildman,

It bugs me, too, trust me. But it’s under the ProCharger, and on the inside of the stringer. The outside is much better, even if still still not perfect. I’m taking solace in the fact that nobody will ever see it. Even if they try. It has also occurred to me that we’ve owned the boat for three years, enjoyed the Hell out of the boat, and didn’t even know it was there..

If I get everything else wrapped up and we’re not yet ready to drop the engine back in, I might reconsider.

Thanks. Brad

Guys,

Any recommendations for a wherever-mountable remote oil filter mount? I’ve found several options. Just looking for opinions.

Thanks. Brad.

Guys,





Got the ProCharger clearance cutout glasses in today. I also took Wildman’s advice and cleaned up some of that resin overdrip mess. It doesn’t really look like it, and it’s not perfect by a long shot, but it’s WAY better than it was.

Spent some time today fabbing up a mounting bracket for the FP regulator. I haven’t drilled any holes yet, but pretty well settled in on starboard side transom for both the fuel pump and filter. I think I may put the regulator there, too; just need to confirm whether some length of run between the fuel rail and the regulator is OK. I can either put it there, or on the back of the rear seat, bolting through into a storage space under the seat. Thoughts?

Thanks. Brad.

Guys,

So…. Builder just pointed out a potential issue with my proposed set up….



Can this pump be mounted above the fuel level in the tank?



Transom, starboard side. Planning as such: Pump is going in red circle. Filter is going in blue circle and regulator is going in green circle.
Thanks. Brad.

Brad, why everything on the transom? If or when you pull the motor, it just makes things more difficult. As for the fuel pump, it is my understanding that it should be mounted as low as possible.

Padraig

Padraig,

Not really. A couple fuel lines (at least one of which would need disconnected either way), a couple oil lines, and a few electrical connections, most of which will be gang connectors. The drive oil reservoir for sure doesn’t need to be mounted on the engine. I like the clean look. I’m a minimalist at heart.

I will examine options to get it lower, but it’s a big ol’ beast of a pump. At current plan, it’s pretty much sitting on the floor, and the tank is directly below the floor. I’m told that, once it’s primed, I’m good. Just thought I’d ask here for insight. I’ll probably call Weldon tomorrow and ask them.

Thanks. Brad.

Why are you using epoxy vs polyester or vinyl ester resin for that repair?

Rookie,

Two basic reasons:

1) Materials on hand.
2) Familiar territory.

I guess my question is, "Why not?" It works easily, wets out great, adheres very well, soaks into raw wood wonderfully, and, by my observation, cures harder, stronger and more chemically resistant than PE or VE resin (at least, WestSystems does). I can tell you that literally nobody who builds high-end, high performance composite model boats (as opposed to wood) uses anything but epoxy. There is an ongoing and everlasting debate over WHICH epoxy system to use, but they ALL use epoxy.

I obviously have no professional experience in fiberglass work, and there might be a valid reason PE and/or VE is still used in full-sized boat industry. But I used what I had and what I was familiar with, and I have full confidence that the repair will outlast me. I used WestSystems to seal up the freshly exposed raw wood when I did the pop-up cleats and when I used the PVC pipe trick and reattached the depth finder transducer, and both worked out well. In this case.

I wasn't so much interested in how it was going to look. It was pretty much too late for that. I only sought to seal up the wood and get rid of the cobbed up mess they left me with when whoever did it to begin with cobbed it up.

Thanks. Brad.

Brad,
I used a pair of these thermostatic filter housings on my Bullet rebuild. I have both motors running, but have not been in the water yet, so I can't vouch completely for their function. They seem to be a well made piece, small, compact and has options for thermostat temp. The picture in the ad shows it with -10 fitting installed, but they do not come with it. It does not come with the filter threads/bung either. Be sure to add four -10 O-ring fittings and the filter bung into the cost. I got mine through Summit.

https://www.improvedracing.com/remote-engine-transmission-oil-filter-mount-with-thermostat-env-171.html

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/IRP-HSC-5022-01