We hurt the 496....
#643
Thread Starter
VIP Member

Joined: Jun 2021
Posts: 3,478
Likes: 2,102
From: SW Ohio
The tuner did ask about the possibility of swapping to an M2 ProCharger. He said we are beyond the efficiency curve of the M1. He's never seen an M1 on a big block. I'd say the reason ProCharger went with the M1 instead of the M2 is because the hypereutectic pistons would not have survived it. We might explore a bigger intercooler, though. Down-road goals.....

Thanks. Brad.
Last edited by Brad Christy; 06-04-2025 at 08:11 AM.
#644
Thread Starter
VIP Member

Joined: Jun 2021
Posts: 3,478
Likes: 2,102
From: SW Ohio
Guys,
I found what I hope is the only coolant leak. The connecter hose between the reservoir and the heat exchanger was just "in place", and the hose clamps were not tight at all. That would be on me. I was the one who made that connection one evening when I was at the dealership "helping", and, apparently, I neglected to tighten them up. Fingers crossed it's the only one.
Looking for raw water leaks, I didn't come across and significantly loose connections. My suspect is the wire-wrapped wet exhaust hose I'm using to couple the exhaust risers to the tips. There are four; two per side. I called a local rubber and hose supplier, and they said they had "wet exhaust" hose, so I went up to get it. When I got there, all they had was the wire-wrapped stuff. So, I bought it. Upon the first fire, I noticed they were leaking. So, I tightened them. Like, a LOT. The next time I fired it up, the two closest to the tips were still leaking, but I didn't see any from the two closest to the elbows. So, I went elsewhere and got a section of the soft-sided stuff, along with two of the band-style hose clamps. The next time I fired it up, I didn't see any leaks. But now that we are getting full water supply (not from a hose), I am seeing evidence of leaks. I've heard/read that the wire-wrapped stuff can be difficult to get to seal well. Should I just go ahead and replace the remaining sections of wire-wrapped hose with the soft-sided stuff? And maybe go with a full complement of the band-style clamps?
Thanks. Brad.
I found what I hope is the only coolant leak. The connecter hose between the reservoir and the heat exchanger was just "in place", and the hose clamps were not tight at all. That would be on me. I was the one who made that connection one evening when I was at the dealership "helping", and, apparently, I neglected to tighten them up. Fingers crossed it's the only one.
Looking for raw water leaks, I didn't come across and significantly loose connections. My suspect is the wire-wrapped wet exhaust hose I'm using to couple the exhaust risers to the tips. There are four; two per side. I called a local rubber and hose supplier, and they said they had "wet exhaust" hose, so I went up to get it. When I got there, all they had was the wire-wrapped stuff. So, I bought it. Upon the first fire, I noticed they were leaking. So, I tightened them. Like, a LOT. The next time I fired it up, the two closest to the tips were still leaking, but I didn't see any from the two closest to the elbows. So, I went elsewhere and got a section of the soft-sided stuff, along with two of the band-style hose clamps. The next time I fired it up, I didn't see any leaks. But now that we are getting full water supply (not from a hose), I am seeing evidence of leaks. I've heard/read that the wire-wrapped stuff can be difficult to get to seal well. Should I just go ahead and replace the remaining sections of wire-wrapped hose with the soft-sided stuff? And maybe go with a full complement of the band-style clamps?
Thanks. Brad.
#645
Registered
Joined: Sep 2021
Posts: 48
Likes: 35
Had had the same issue with my stainless marine exhaust. Couldn't get the wire hose to seal 100% with two clamps on each end. Switched it to the soft wall hose with no wire and it hasn't been an issue. I'd swap it and go boating.
#648
Registered
Joined: Oct 2024
Posts: 96
Likes: 39
From: York Haven, PA
If you still have a leak with 2 clamps.. you could also try putting some bellows adhesive or permatex #3 on the sealing surface.
#649
Thread Starter
VIP Member

Joined: Jun 2021
Posts: 3,478
Likes: 2,102
From: SW Ohio
It had double hose clamps from PQ (assuming), and I replicated that when I put it back together, but I suspect the worm gear style hose clamps just aren't cutting it against the wire-wound hose. I may invest in six more of the T-bolt style and just have one per joint, as they are about an inch wide, distribute the load far more evenly, and provide WAY more clamping force. I think that will seal them more than enough with the soft-sided hose.
Thanks. Brad.
#650
Registered


Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,422
Likes: 1,062
From: Orlando, FL
AShipShow,
It had double hose clamps from PQ (assuming), and I replicated that when I put it back together, but I suspect the worm gear style hose clamps just aren't cutting it against the wire-wound hose. I may invest in six more of the T-bolt style and just have one per joint, as they are about an inch wide, distribute the load far more evenly, and provide WAY more clamping force. I think that will seal them more than enough with the soft-sided hose.
Thanks. Brad.
It had double hose clamps from PQ (assuming), and I replicated that when I put it back together, but I suspect the worm gear style hose clamps just aren't cutting it against the wire-wound hose. I may invest in six more of the T-bolt style and just have one per joint, as they are about an inch wide, distribute the load far more evenly, and provide WAY more clamping force. I think that will seal them more than enough with the soft-sided hose.
Thanks. Brad.




