Guide plates will only make a difference on side to side location. They won't change intake side/exhaust roller pattern side location.

I’m by no means an expert, but I used that Straub technology video to get my push rod lengths. When I did that, my contact patterns were the closest to center of valve stem with the narrowest pattern. What I found when doing this, I at first had “0” offset rockers, as my pattern was off center. I had need up needing a 0.090 offset for my exhaust and “0.050” offset for my intake to get that narrow pattern centered. After I established closest to center with the offset, then I got the proper length measured up for the pushrod.

SB,

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...680a89e50.jpeg
They look pretty fixed to me.

Thanks. Brad.

Guys,

So I’m gathering that valve tip engagement centering is of less importance. Obviously, centered and that perfect sweep of equal above and below 90° is ideal, but also, obviously, there are no perfect world scenarios with stud mount rockers. My biggest concern at the moment is the (what I consider) limited thread engagement with the polylock. Best I can figure is, with 1 to 1-1/2 turns of lifter preload, I’m going to have ~7 threads engaged. Should I turn the polylock in another couple turns and sacrifice a little of that perfect sweep for a little extra thread engagement and peace of mind, and a slightly better centered contact patch?

Thanks. Brad.

Technically, you should have the diameter of the threads as your engagement length if you were at max loading of the stud. Thus a 7/16 -20 stud would have 10 threads of engagement. BUT, I seriously doubt you'll have a problem at 7 threads of engagement being you are nowhere near the load limit of the stud. What you have should be more than adequate. IF, and I do mean IF, you have a problem with thel loosening up it's an easy deal to install a longer set of studs.

Smitty275,

Mechanically, you are correct. Swapping studs is a pretty easy thing to do. Retail-wise, however, is a different story. ARP sells three kits with M10 base threads, and the ones for the 496 are the longest installed height. If you’ve got another option for aftermarket rocker studs, let’s hear it.

The infuriating thing is that ARP has some “specials” on the shelf they made for somebody at some point in time in the past that are 2” installed height (an additional 1/4”). But they want “specials” pricing for them, which works out to $800 for a set of 16. Ain’t no farqing way. I knew I should have drilled and tapped the heads for 7/16-14 bottom threaded studs during the rebuild.


Thanks. Brad.

The trick with afr heads and The copys, flotek,promax,etc IS to use shorter valves that comes with assembled heads, then you dont need Any special offset Rockers. I used 0.150"-0.200" shorter valves on My flotek 290cc heads, 0,670" lift no problems.

Where’s Bob M !!!

Brad, I am not a pushrod guy, so please excuse my ignorance:

Is there anything special about those ARP studs? ARP sells lots of M10 cylinder head studs for European cars in Europe, and I would assume that they are available in the US, too. There should be a reasonable selection of lengths.

Markus,

They have two listed on their website (technically, there are four, but two of them are duplicates of a 2-count, instead of a full compliment), confirmed verbally over the phone, and the longest of which are 1.750" installed height, which are the ones I have. I can find no other suppliers that offer an M10 bottom threaded rocker arm stud with a longer installed height. If you can find ARP studs with M10 bottom threads and ~2" installed height, please post a link.

As for "anything special".... ARP pretty much have the market cornered on all things high strength automotive fastener. Their material selection, heat threat specs, and the cold rolled threads translate into the strongest bolts/studs/nuts available. The fact that literally EVERY high-end connecting rod MFR supplies ARP bolts with their rods speaks volumes.

Thanks. Brad.