setting X dimension - #6 to Bravo conversion
#12
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Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 60
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From: Mullica Hill, NJ
Marty, thats the plan, but haven't gotten into the complete mechanics of that yet. I'm picking up the drive in a few days, and then I can start laying out more on the box design first. I've seen on some other posts that you have/had an extension box/ drive shaft project of your own. How's it goin?
#13
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Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 1,461
Likes: 3
From: PA and MD
I use all stellings parts. On the drive flange/coupler I mount a strain sensor and can measure the torque transfered thru it and display it on guages either 0-1000 TQ or HP. I have two done and am working on a third.
#14
Originally posted by pantera38
thanks for the suggestions.
I plan to speak to Jo at Pantera today.
Griff - yes this was originally set up as a race boat. How can I determine the X from the original #6 transom mounting holes? Would I need to get a template for a #6 to get that info?
Where could I locate one?
thanks for the suggestions.
I plan to speak to Jo at Pantera today.
Griff - yes this was originally set up as a race boat. How can I determine the X from the original #6 transom mounting holes? Would I need to get a template for a #6 to get that info?
Where could I locate one?
Then I would take into consideration the weight loss with Bravo's instead of 6's and trannies and go down an inch and then maybe lower it another inch because it was probably set up high for race purposes.
If you get Stellings boxes, and you set it in the middle, you should have an inch or so to play with up or down.
#15
BTW, have you thought about just having the transom filled and recut for Bravo's??????? or are you leaving it cut for 6's for the possible future????
Having it filled and recut would probably cost a lot less than the boxes.
Having it filled and recut would probably cost a lot less than the boxes.





