Thanks Ken.

This is where OSO really shines. I'll get some pics and go from there.

Yes it will stick to vinylester VERY well.

Note about Paint. IF you plan on gell coating then you DO NOT want to use epoxy!!! The Gell is a polyester based paint and will react with the epoxy. If you DO you epoxy then you need to paint over it with Duratech BEFORE you gell coat.

Jon

Sorry you had a problem getting through.... Not sure what is up with that... Try me tomarrow.

If the rot goes all the way to the sides then you just keep digging. Personally if the rot is local or entire then I would replace it all. Even if it looks good it will still be wet and you will have a problem eventually. What you need to do is get all the wood out. You then sand any lips of glass that are left. When you are done with that you will fit the wood and all that I said in my prior post. Once you are done and ready to glass you mix up your paste. The Paste will be a pail of resin and cabocile or West Systems 401. Mix the powder in tell you get a nice thick paste that will stand up when it is troweled out. Paint straite resin with hardener in it onto the transom and then the wood. THEN take the mixed stuf and add the hardener and spread that onto the wood then clamp it how ever you think is best. This will be plenty good of a bond.

Jon

Thanks, I'm on my way.

I started taking my transom apart today. I got a late start because i got out of work 9 hrs. late...

One of the things I noticed is just how heavy duty these boats really are. No wonder they last as long as they do. I have the transom stripped except for the transom plates.

Audio, I agree with replacing the whole thing. It's not any easier to "patch" an area of the transom as opposed to replacing the whole thing. I think that this thread will help other people, so I will post several pics tommorow eve.

See ya. Bryan

I did this project 1 summer ago including the stringers to the firewall bulkhead. I did all the demo work and had someone do the new glass. It cost a grand and was worth getting away from all the glass work

I found when using West systems the way to keep it from "kicking" in the container is to cool the mix down with ice and water before and after you mix it. Just leave room in the cooler for "refreshments" Paul

Jaf however if you do that you loose the bonding characteristics. Also the colder it is the harder it is to get it to absorb into the glass as it will be thicker. To properly cure the boat, glass, resin, and any other material you are bonding HAS to be at 60 degrees. Just something to think about. The key is get it out of the cup as fast as possible. Then you will have LOTS of time to work with it as it does cure by volume.

Jon

See that... I just saved you room in your cooler

i recored my trans myself. i cut it out from the inside,ground out ALL of the old wood & delaminated glass, filled the old drive holes, built a layer 3/4" thick out of woven roving,mat&epoxy. then made 1" thick plates to go where the drives,trim rams & steering rams go & epoxyed those in. next i cut out nida core to fit the whole transom & bonded it in. last i layed up 1/4" fiberglass for inside layer. total of 2" thick and totally waterproof/rotproof....brick S house!!

You used NIDA Core for your transome? I do not know what to tell ya there bro but that is NOT a recommended use for NIDA Core..... NIDA Core has very little if any compresion strength.

Jon