Is Deerbery performance automotive or marine primarily? To get 34 total degrees don't you need to start at 20 base with a v-6 module? That seems excessive, but that is just me. I would verify the tach and the 200rpm idle. My engines always die once they get below about 400rpm. Dyno is a great idea. Since the engines are out you could address any possible windage or pan problems that may be contributing to the oil temp problems. When you are running along can you smell oil burning? That often indicated windage issues which can result in temp issues.

BT

Getting rid of elbows will help more. As long as you have 5/8" lines you are fine. Does this block have pressure differential (bypass) valve like standard bbc?

BT

A little smell is noticable . He is strictly a hot boat marine builder. The motors kick butt. Im turning 30 inch 4 blade bravos abt 5400 according to my tach . But the engines fall when I put them in gear > They idle in nuetral at 1100 or so . Then fall till I hit the throttle .I think mobil one will help . But hopefully next weeks dyno run will tell the tale !!

yes it does . I ahve a few elbows now that you mention it .I thought of that myself . Thanks

This sounds like a lot of other threads here. Have you made sure all of your oil is going through the cooler? If your engine has the wrong bypass in it the oil will not go through the filter or the cooler. Personally, the bypass on my 540's is plugged. That way I know all of my oil is filtered and cooled. Is it plumbed correctly? The oil should flow in the opposite direction as the water in the cooler. Which cooler are you using, 3 x 16 would be a minimum. If all this checks out I would increase the jet size on the secondaries by 2 and see if that has any effect.

Yes it is plummed correctly. I have new blocks so I have to assume I have the correct bypasse valves in the block. I have the new Hardin 3/4inch block adaptor bushed down to 1/2 inch . going to a stock filter bracket assembly. The cooler is 3inch X 18 .

Boatman,you said the port side of both pans spits oil? Are these hardin pans? I used the hardin 14 qt oil pan from cp performan\ce,it is suppossed to be a copy of the gil pan,when i installed mine i tried to use the nice felpro 1 piece gskt that i use on most motors but it fit TERRIBLE. I could actually slide a .010 feeler gauge betwen block and gskt,luckily i caught this while it was still on the stand. I bought another felpro 1 piece gskt and the fit was just as bad,i don't blame the gskt,i blame the pan,just curious if you ran into same problem. I ended up using cork gskt's with lots of black rtv,it doesn't leak but i wouldn't buy another hardin pan again. Patriyacht is right,are you running correct bypass valve set-up,there has been alot posted on here lately about near identical problems,good luck,Smitty

If things are tuned right and rigged right, most of these oil temp problems are cylinder to piston clearance problems. That is, they are bored/clearanced for automotive applications. I don't believe you will find that in any other thread on the subject. It is the answer no one ever wants to hear, but I believe it to be true. Everything else we discuss are bandaids.

BT

Causes of high oil temps:
Incorrectly plumbed cooler (opposite water flow) or filter, wrong bypass valve.
Can be checked easily.
Too much ignition timing, too lean carb, restricted fuel supply/pressure. (check the plugs).
No windage tray. Did your builder install one?
My $0.02
Gary

I have Merc HP500 coolers on my 540s and I haven't seen over 220*. I'd worry about 300.