Rage - Chine Walking & Trailer Q's
07-27-2007, 02:43 PM
#21
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I had a 700hp Rage that walked between 80 and 90 mph.
Didn't own it long enough to really figure out a cure.
Now I own a 35 that walks near 90. Just add in a little tab
and it's solid. My solution on the 35 is live with the tab since
the boats fast enough that I don't care for any more.
Further down there is a thread asking about blueprinting hulls.
I've been intrigued by the following possibility:
There is no such thing as a flat fiberglass surface, in order to give it strength (Orval Summerstedt taught me that). Put a straightedge on your chine and notice that it is convex.
Now take the convex side of a spoon and hold it against a stream of water, and it will bounce on and off in a way that
makes you think of chine walking. I wonder if a good glass guy
could bondo (this would preserve the inherent strength providing shape of the glass) the shape of a chine to be exactly flat, and if that would cure chine walk?
I'm definitely not a glass guy so don't blame me if I'm
full of it.
Pesky Varmint
Didn't own it long enough to really figure out a cure.
Now I own a 35 that walks near 90. Just add in a little tab
and it's solid. My solution on the 35 is live with the tab since
the boats fast enough that I don't care for any more.
Further down there is a thread asking about blueprinting hulls.
I've been intrigued by the following possibility:
There is no such thing as a flat fiberglass surface, in order to give it strength (Orval Summerstedt taught me that). Put a straightedge on your chine and notice that it is convex.
Now take the convex side of a spoon and hold it against a stream of water, and it will bounce on and off in a way that
makes you think of chine walking. I wonder if a good glass guy
could bondo (this would preserve the inherent strength providing shape of the glass) the shape of a chine to be exactly flat, and if that would cure chine walk?
I'm definitely not a glass guy so don't blame me if I'm
full of it.
Pesky Varmint
07-30-2007, 03:23 PM
#22
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Peski Varmit,
Very interesting experiences you describe. I have not played with the tabs yet for chine walking control thinking they would just slow me down. But there may be a fine line of just enough tabs to steady things down but not scrub off speed. Worth some testing. The concave hull theory as to contributing to chine walking is interesting as well. I was thinking more on the lines that hull irregularities will cause parasitic drag. I wanted to hear from someone who has blue printed a Rage hull for actual before and after results.
Very interesting experiences you describe. I have not played with the tabs yet for chine walking control thinking they would just slow me down. But there may be a fine line of just enough tabs to steady things down but not scrub off speed. Worth some testing. The concave hull theory as to contributing to chine walking is interesting as well. I was thinking more on the lines that hull irregularities will cause parasitic drag. I wanted to hear from someone who has blue printed a Rage hull for actual before and after results.
08-02-2007, 08:35 AM
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raytart, I saw it. I posted a followup question asking about any negatives to diffuser ring removal as well. If nothing significant I will likely have the DR removed to improve the basics of my set up. Thanks.
08-06-2007, 10:09 AM
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raytart,
Feedback from the prop forum (below) says there may be a penality to removing the diffuser ring in the form of plane out problems and less bow lift. Did you see that?
throttleup
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Originally Posted by Griff
Maybe a few more rpms (50-100) and a very small speed increase. removing them may cause problems getting on plane and reduces bow lift.
That has been our experience as well on stern drive applications.
Julie
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Feedback from the prop forum (below) says there may be a penality to removing the diffuser ring in the form of plane out problems and less bow lift. Did you see that?
throttleup
Throttle Up Propellers
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Posts: 3,955 Quote:
Originally Posted by Griff
Maybe a few more rpms (50-100) and a very small speed increase. removing them may cause problems getting on plane and reduces bow lift.
That has been our experience as well on stern drive applications.
Julie
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THROTTLE UP CNC PROPELLERS:
Go Fast or Go Home!
When you feel the need for speed...Throttle Up!
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Hey Rage
Not a problem answering your questions.
The answer to your first question is NO. No problems prior to gear change.
As far as the labbing of the prop eliminating the chine walking... I really can't give an answer on that because the labbing and the cutting the diffuser were done at the same time. I never spoke directly to the prop guy. I spoke with my dealer (TSPM) and he relayed the message to me. But I recall the conversation and the prop guy told him that cutting the diffuser would help with the handling issues. I'm not even sure of the prop shop or the guys name. Have you asked this question under prop forum? I read some of the posts and there seems to be alot of knowledge there. You may find someone who has done this before and possibly get a more informed answer. Keep in mind that with the gear change, the prop shaft is actually spinning faster but the motor is not. I tried other props with the new gear change and did not experience chine walk. But those props, all of which were B1 4 blades did not allow me to get even close to max rpm.
Like I said in an earlier post "Are you willing to expriment...$$$. I was and I'm still experimenting. I still need a few hundred more rpm's and I hope to get over 80 mph. If I don't get over 80, All of this is one for the books. But I must say that I did loose "Punch" But not too bad. I do like the way the boat carries itself now. It feels like it's riding higher out of the water and the sensation of flying reminds me of driving my old Hydrostream.
Ray
Not a problem answering your questions.
The answer to your first question is NO. No problems prior to gear change.
As far as the labbing of the prop eliminating the chine walking... I really can't give an answer on that because the labbing and the cutting the diffuser were done at the same time. I never spoke directly to the prop guy. I spoke with my dealer (TSPM) and he relayed the message to me. But I recall the conversation and the prop guy told him that cutting the diffuser would help with the handling issues. I'm not even sure of the prop shop or the guys name. Have you asked this question under prop forum? I read some of the posts and there seems to be alot of knowledge there. You may find someone who has done this before and possibly get a more informed answer. Keep in mind that with the gear change, the prop shaft is actually spinning faster but the motor is not. I tried other props with the new gear change and did not experience chine walk. But those props, all of which were B1 4 blades did not allow me to get even close to max rpm.
Like I said in an earlier post "Are you willing to expriment...$$$. I was and I'm still experimenting. I still need a few hundred more rpm's and I hope to get over 80 mph. If I don't get over 80, All of this is one for the books. But I must say that I did loose "Punch" But not too bad. I do like the way the boat carries itself now. It feels like it's riding higher out of the water and the sensation of flying reminds me of driving my old Hydrostream.
Ray
08-07-2007, 09:51 AM
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raytart,
The prop forum was informative on this issue.
There was mentioned a potential down side to diffuser ring removal. That was increased potential for creating control / handeling problems do to prop ventilation during plane out, in turns and reduced bow lift. Any of these things happen to your boat?
The prop forum was informative on this issue.
There was mentioned a potential down side to diffuser ring removal. That was increased potential for creating control / handeling problems do to prop ventilation during plane out, in turns and reduced bow lift. Any of these things happen to your boat?
08-07-2007, 05:36 PM
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Nope,
Very happy with the results I got.
Just cut the damn thing off already!
What's the worst that can happen?
You won't know till you try it.
Why don't you keep the prop you already have and don't mess with it. Then buy another prop (possibly used) and have that worked. This way you won't have any downtime while it's being labbed. AND you'll have a spare prop.
Ray
Very happy with the results I got.
Just cut the damn thing off already!
What's the worst that can happen?
You won't know till you try it.
Why don't you keep the prop you already have and don't mess with it. Then buy another prop (possibly used) and have that worked. This way you won't have any downtime while it's being labbed. AND you'll have a spare prop.
Ray
Last edited by raytart; 08-07-2007 at 05:39 PM.
