2009 Thor
10-23-2009, 12:29 PM
#61
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Woh... WE got a little side tracked there. That was like drinking with my brothers kids! 
Anyway Paul, very Impressive Thor I never understood how you kept that rage from walk N all over? I couldn't keep my rage set at 75 (I blamed it on the steering) I know your beyond it now but Any suggestions or tricks on chine walk I'm having the same problem with my Heat w/ full hydraulic steering dropping tabs just increases drag and defeats my purpose
Anyway Paul, very Impressive Thor I never understood how you kept that rage from walk N all over? I couldn't keep my rage set at 75 (I blamed it on the steering) I know your beyond it now but Any suggestions or tricks on chine walk I'm having the same problem with my Heat w/ full hydraulic steering dropping tabs just increases drag and defeats my purpose
I love it. What kind of drive do you have on the back of it? A Bravo? XR?
If you have a bravo casing with beefed up internals, I have something you could try that might cure your ails..
RD
10-23-2009, 12:30 PM
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10-23-2009, 12:37 PM
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Awesome speeds. I have liked the thore since it came out. I hope nordic does ok with the larger one as well.
Isn't there a super fast Redline out there somewhere also? Both are very nice looking boats.
Isn't there a super fast Redline out there somewhere also? Both are very nice looking boats.
10-23-2009, 03:36 PM
#64
Chris
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26redline's boat does 133+ with a 5.0 Whipple on top of a stout 540.
I think that the Thor, and the Redline cat are the most awsome single engine sports boats out.
The Thor is a little sportier looking, and the Redline more functional as to storage space and engine compartment size.
Having driven both, I can tell you that they are both fantastic, but that I have never been in a boat that corners harder than the Redline. It reminds me of a pro-class jetski in its turning mannerisms.
Chris
I think that the Thor, and the Redline cat are the most awsome single engine sports boats out.
The Thor is a little sportier looking, and the Redline more functional as to storage space and engine compartment size.
Having driven both, I can tell you that they are both fantastic, but that I have never been in a boat that corners harder than the Redline. It reminds me of a pro-class jetski in its turning mannerisms.
Chris
10-23-2009, 05:13 PM
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10-24-2009, 11:32 AM
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Matt, what speeds are you starting to have handling problems with your Heat? I had one running 900 hp with Bravo/ITS that handled perfect up to 95+. CB-BLR and Steve both have Heats running over 90 with no issues. So, you would have to assume the surfacing drive is impacting the handling. I would love to hear more about your setup, performance and handling.
Bob
Bob
Woh... WE got a little side tracked there. That was like drinking with my brothers kids! Anyway Paul, very Impressive Thor I never understood how you kept that rage from walk N all over? I couldn't keep my rage set at 75 (I blamed it on the steering) I know your beyond it now but Any suggestions or tricks on chine walk I'm having the same problem with my Heat w/ full hydraulic steering dropping tabs just increases drag and defeats my purpose
Anyway Paul, very Impressive Thor I never understood how you kept that rage from walk N all over? I couldn't keep my rage set at 75 (I blamed it on the steering) I know your beyond it now but Any suggestions or tricks on chine walk I'm having the same problem with my Heat w/ full hydraulic steering dropping tabs just increases drag and defeats my purpose
10-25-2009, 09:10 AM
#67
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Matt, what speeds are you starting to have handling problems with your Heat? I had one running 900 hp with Bravo/ITS that handled perfect up to 95+. CB-BLR and Steve both have Heats running over 90 with no issues. So, you would have to assume the surfacing drive is impacting the handling. I would love to hear more about your setup, performance and handling.
Bob
Bob
It may well be related to the NXT drive (which I like, obviously it can take some HP) or propellers (generally larger diameter than Bravo based props). Large diameter props do tend to twist boats around at high speed when there is little wetted surface to keep the boat stabilized. Most of the NXT/#6 props I've seen are cleaver type/surface props which are transom lifting designs, not good for our application. They tend to lift the tail, then you have to trim up to overcome the tail lift, sometimes making everything go to hell. Most of us are running bow lifting props, in the 15.25"s diameter range. In other words, you may have to do a lot of prop testing. Chris knows the Hering guys, and can probably hook you up.
It could just be the hydrodynamics of the drive (the lower) itself. It does work well on some boats (tunnels and twin applications). It doesn't on others. On Fountains, they have to put #6 lowers on their 600/700/NXT boats to get them to run properly. Should it come to that, the very efficient #6 lower will bolt right up to your upper. Some of us with Bravo/Imco drives and lowers have had good results with spacers of varying sizes (1" to 1/4"). We just don't have much data base on your application yet, but it should be great (fast and reliable) when you get it sorted out.
Matt, I agree that tabbing it out is just treating the problem, not fixing it, and not efficient. I only use my tabs for planing a heavy load of people/gas/gear, rough water, or a lateral imbalance. I try to stabilize my boat (laterally) with the gas level in the saddle tanks. I always run 1/4 more on the driver's/starboard side to overcome RH propeller torque. Unfortunately my buddy Butch aka Mayor McCheese is getting fat, and I have to run some tab on his side now
............. I think you can fix it with prop testing/custom work and some seat time.
Good luck and keep us posted on your progress.
Best Regards,
Steve
Last edited by Steve Zuckerman; 10-25-2009 at 10:04 AM.
10-27-2009, 10:13 AM
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Hi Matt and Bob,
It may well be related to the NXT drive (which I like, obviously it can take some HP) or propellers (generally larger diameter than Bravo based props). Large diameter props do tend to twist boats around at high speed when there is little wetted surface to keep the boat stabilized. Most of the NXT/#6 props I've seen are cleaver type/surface props which are transom lifting designs, not good for our application. They tend to lift the tail, then you have to trim up to overcome the tail lift, sometimes making everything go to hell. Most of us are running bow lifting props, in the 15.25"s diameter range. In other words, you may have to do a lot of prop testing. Chris knows the Hering guys, and can probably hook you up.
It could just be the hydrodynamics of the drive (the lower) itself. It does work well on some boats (tunnels and twin applications). It doesn't on others. On Fountains, they have to put #6 lowers on their 600/700/NXT boats to get them to run properly. Should it come to that, the very efficient #6 lower will bolt right up to your upper. Some of us with Bravo/Imco drives and lowers have had good results with spacers of varying sizes (1" to 1/4"). We just don't have much data base on your application yet, but it should be great (fast and reliable) when you get it sorted out.
Matt, I agree that tabbing it out is just treating the problem, not fixing it, and not efficient. I only use my tabs for planing a heavy load of people/gas/gear, rough water, or a lateral imbalance. I try to stabilize my boat (laterally) with the gas level in the saddle tanks. I always run 1/4 more on the driver's/starboard side to overcome RH propeller torque. Unfortunately my buddy Butch aka Mayor McCheese is getting fat, and I have to run some tab on his side now.............
I think you can fix it with prop testing/custom work and some seat time.
Good luck and keep us posted on your progress.
Best Regards,
Steve
It may well be related to the NXT drive (which I like, obviously it can take some HP) or propellers (generally larger diameter than Bravo based props). Large diameter props do tend to twist boats around at high speed when there is little wetted surface to keep the boat stabilized. Most of the NXT/#6 props I've seen are cleaver type/surface props which are transom lifting designs, not good for our application. They tend to lift the tail, then you have to trim up to overcome the tail lift, sometimes making everything go to hell. Most of us are running bow lifting props, in the 15.25"s diameter range. In other words, you may have to do a lot of prop testing. Chris knows the Hering guys, and can probably hook you up.
It could just be the hydrodynamics of the drive (the lower) itself. It does work well on some boats (tunnels and twin applications). It doesn't on others. On Fountains, they have to put #6 lowers on their 600/700/NXT boats to get them to run properly. Should it come to that, the very efficient #6 lower will bolt right up to your upper. Some of us with Bravo/Imco drives and lowers have had good results with spacers of varying sizes (1" to 1/4"). We just don't have much data base on your application yet, but it should be great (fast and reliable) when you get it sorted out.
Matt, I agree that tabbing it out is just treating the problem, not fixing it, and not efficient. I only use my tabs for planing a heavy load of people/gas/gear, rough water, or a lateral imbalance. I try to stabilize my boat (laterally) with the gas level in the saddle tanks. I always run 1/4 more on the driver's/starboard side to overcome RH propeller torque. Unfortunately my buddy Butch aka Mayor McCheese is getting fat, and I have to run some tab on his side now
............. I think you can fix it with prop testing/custom work and some seat time.
Good luck and keep us posted on your progress.
Best Regards,
Steve
Last edited by mattdearing; 10-27-2009 at 10:50 AM.
10-27-2009, 12:03 PM
#69
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Great Information! Starts in at cruising speeds and over will run 90MPH but I don't have the balls to drive with the progressive chine walk I'm running a cleaver with a 1/2 inch spacer There's a lot of leverage out there with the NXT box and drive hanging off, But even with that, I think your right on track with the aft hull lift and I'm trimming out pretty far (then I got a mess) Chris mentioned Prop as well, Would be nice if I could just change the prop? and fix the problem, humm... A #6 lower would be super efficient though. Very Helpful Info Thanks Again!
The prop is the place to start. I don't know what blade configurations Hydromotive or Herring have for the #6/NXT drives. I would think they would have something (or be developing something) more like a Bravo or Hydromotive round ear blade shape. Round ears generally are good bow lifters, and that's what most of us with Bravo based drives are running. I would give them both a call and see what they have to say. Mercury Racing, and/or props may be of some help too.
Since most of the Bravo/XR hubs are interchangeable, maybe you can test some of the propeller types Chris has been running, the Hydromotive P-5X and Herring 5 blades.
Props for us are like the tires for car racers. They are the "contact patch" that makes the drivetrain hook up properly. The wrong tires won't allow a car to handle well, nor will the wrong prop on our boats.
Good luck and keep us posted. Like I said earlier, you have one of the few NXT drive Heats, and that is something new for us. The basics of what works on the Bravo drive Heats should still hold true for yours.
Best Regards,
Steve
Last edited by Steve Zuckerman; 10-27-2009 at 12:21 PM.
10-27-2009, 06:32 PM
#70
Chris
Gold Member
Matt,
I have been out of town for a few days, delivering my motor to Dustin.
If you would like to try some props.. Hering or otherwise, give me a call.
Chris
206-235-4545
I have been out of town for a few days, delivering my motor to Dustin.
If you would like to try some props.. Hering or otherwise, give me a call.
Chris
206-235-4545
