Cattitude

I need to determine the lesser of the evils.....

Due to the width of the rear mounted spark arrestor I need to move the actuator over about 2" to port, at least on the transom.

I'm limited on the hatch as there is a nice blue mirror deal with a neat hole cut in it and a stainless trim plate. Located in the hole is a std 4 bolt double shear stainless tab- matching the transom piece.

I'm going to either have to put a stainless "shock stud" type arrangement on there and cantilever the ram out or fab an offset double shear piece that mounts in the same hole. I might get a way with leaving as is and a slight angle to the moved transom mt- use a 7/16" stainless bolt to pull of the angle with the 1/2" hole.

On the transom- I can either fab a similar deal or simply relocate the double shear bracket and marinetex the 4 old blind holes in the transom- leaning towards the marine tex option ofr ease and clean ness even though it would not "match" the other end.

Any other ideas?

tomcei

Catt. I just relocated a new lift and had to make a bracket for it. I'll post a pic tonight.

tomcei

My lift mtr was originally mounted on the transom. It seemed like there was a bind in the way it opperated, sounded horrable and was very slow. I wanted a cleaner look to the transom anyway so I bought a better one and moved it to the inner side of the main stringer. These pics arn't the best but it will give you an idea.

I used the "factory" bracket and had it welded to an L shaped bracket with gussets(sp) for strength. It was stainless but wasn't polished and honestly didn't look that good so I powder-coated it.

Cattitude

That's nice and clean but I'm limited in my options- I don't want to mess with the hatch mount cause it would be reinventing the wheel- I need to stay at the firewall- made good progress today till the bugs drove me in- I will be wet on Sat

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