I have used line to line twice, and my friend once. All times had excellent results.

Hopefully you can find it closer to you.

Boat and engine is going forward. Fuel transfer and filling pumps are in place, diesel air heaters pickups still needs to be done. I put two heaters, one for cabin and one for cockpit so boating is nicer when nights get cold.





My 2 year old little girl drill her life first holes to aluminium wire holders. All wires and hoses will be affixed to somekind rails or shelves. I don't like million P clips.






They make too small pallet jacks or is engine big enough...



Cam shatfs are long! They are drilled hollow and oil pressure goes inside them to lube all valvetrain, cam drive is solved by vertical shaft that works as a vibration damper too. Big engine thermal expansion make no problem for cam drive because vertical shaft is floater so it can move in spline when engine grow up by heat. Genious.







Cam bearing carriers have to take out before 32mm tool size head bolt nuts can be opened. Bearing carrier nuts are very difficult to open, I had turn special 1/4" socket to get those out, but there are no straight line so ball end extension have to be used and they break easily. Three of them have broke now. All nuts in this engine have safety wire or bent sheet metal to lock nuts. Soviets didn't use any bolts, all is stud and nut design.




I take engine apart now and start to dimension new piston for it. I let heads stock for now and do only mandatory, othervise I can't get it running next spring.
Valve springs have to change, they are so soft that I can press them together by hand! They have wierd bend wire end that hinder valves from rotating, cam followers will be more happy if they rotate so that another reason to change springs. New springs need hardened washers under so they not dig themselves in head aluminium.

Maybe in next week I get head and cylinders off so you can see very interesting stuff inside this huge engine.

Engine is disassebled now! It's so well made that I can't understand why they made it so well over 60 years ago? Transmash is most over engineered thing that I know. Billet steel connecting rods look amazing and they are almost two times as big as regular 12 liter truck stuff.

About 5 hours disassembly time to this far, not bad, there are not so many nuts and parts to take out that I imagined.

Here is picture timeline for you.




















A lot of cleaning job to do before I can disassembly heads from cylinder blocks, then is time to design new pistons, valve seats and valve guides. Transmash will get 60 year birthday update to these days technology.
Think those rods, they are as big as my arm, I think it's impossible to get so much fuel and air to cylinder that rod can break! Crankshaft is also billet steel hollow shaft.
Head studs are M23x1.5 thread, think that they are almost one inch UNF and color looks like they are somekind heat treaded, propably some tool steel, who knows.

This is what 2372cid engine looks, Allisons are ten liter smaller than Transmash....May the power be with us. Stay tuned.

Does look like a very well built motor

Do you know when the last time that engine was in service?

I don’t know but 20-30 years ago i think.

Transmash original pistons was pretty easy to remove though it have press fit pins, heat helps.



Master connecting rods are over feet long!



Connecting rod is too wide to fit Nissan piston, need some milling. I take too much off from this modeling piston, only half milling is enough. Ball end milling bit have to buy so there will be nice round above rod.



Nissan pistons have steel reinforcement plates casted in skirts, may be good thing, who knows?



Nissan UD truck pistons will fit but some things have to change. Nissan 50mm piston pin can not be used, Transmash pin is 42mm so aluminium bronze bushings do the job and Transmash pins have to shorten. It's good thing because weight saving.
Compression ring is 10mm more up than original, it stay barely in cylinder sleeve, this is not good but ring upper face stay 1mm below cylinder sleeve top. I like it to be more down but it's too big job to raise cylinde blocs or sleeves. Picture fool, it's not a piston ring in picture, only steel ring groove reinforcement can be seen.







Heads are disassembled now, special tools have to be made so job goes easier. Cam follower is fitted by thread to valve stem, valve clearance adjustment is very easy. Valve stems are 18mm diameter, 54mm intake and 50mm exhaust valves.



Head is almost 4 feet long, barely fit to my washing machine. 80C temp help valve guide removal.


I made special tool from old Scania DC12 engine head bolt to air hammer.





All 48 guides are out. My friend machine new ones from aluminium bronze by CNC lathe, I'm afraid original iron guides will seize especially on exhaust side. Aluminium bronze have bigger thermal expansion rate so it grows away when valve stems grow by heat. It make less wear to stems also. Guide outer diameter is almost one inch




Bad picture but new guides will be much shorter, original guides kill already poor flow logs in half of port. I was wondering if the head should be ported a little simultaneously.

Long post but 99% of followers have ever seen something like this, hope you enjoy to spy some different stuff than old V8's. Please be free to comment if you can give some tips or tricks to make huge power.

Very interesting stuff again 👍. I would definetly port the heads. Btw what is the diameter of the valves? Wonder who could do a perfomance valve job to these here In finland 🤣🤣🤣🤣

well awesome work there and a very cool engine this winter ill tear into my project engine it makes most engines look tiny its a pratt and whitney 4360 ci with varible speed supercharger and 28 cylinders

Sorry - my knowledge of engines is limited to building 2-stroke outboard engines and performing basic work on 4-stroke automotive engines. No ability to provide any tips or tricks.

This is the best thread on OSO, though.