look at post 339 and the 3rd photo you will see a planetary setup in the middle of the photo. i can understand the gearbox but the planetary is not a 1:1 ratio and it has no function with the gears that i can understand. is it just something that was sitting on the bench or

Planetary gears are from ZF transmission, there are three of them. Planetary next to splitbox picture is transmission output shaft that connect to biggest spur gear in splitbox. Splitbox will be part of transmission, not separate piece, but it will have different oil than transmission.

Forgot to say that transmission planetaries are 1:1 ratio in 4. gear. All planetaries are locked up so transmission act like straight shaft through its housing. It can take up more power in 4. gear than others, power come in by two rotating clutches and input shafts, on all other gears there is only one rotating clutch closed. All planetary brakes are also open in 4. gear, efficiency should be better.

This topic got over 200.000 views, thank you for your interest!
A lot of boat building time has gone to thinking and engineering, all parts need get location that is well designed so maintenance and functionality will be good. I hate million P clip style wire and hose attaching method, I fix stainless wire shelf going around of engine comparement. All hydraulics and wires are easy to put on shelf and fix with zip ties after the last wire is there.
Remote control main switch, fuses, connectors, relays go in water tight installation box, it keep engine room clean, nice looking and hidden from rust.

Batteries are 24V 120A lithium batteries, weight only 21kg/piece, no need for shore power just charge them by engine generator or auxiarly generator. I like to build boat so I can be even two weeks offshore. Cabin electrics is 12V, 24V to 13.6V 100A converter take care of that. 5kW continous pure sine inverter do 230V AC power for microwave, stove and high pressure start air compressor




I found nice 24V 35LPM impeller pumps for fuel transfer. Engine and air heaters use center fuel tank, two outer tanks can be used reserve fuel and side to side ballast tank. On lakes are no sense to carry too much fuel and weight onboard, but if some day I go bigger waters range should be good. I fit threeway valves on suction sides so when using both pumps it can draw 70LPM fuel from barrel in van. Diesel cost in Finland 1.7€/liter on land station and 2.2€/liter on the beach station




Now I have to concentrate to buy tools and equipment to my garage, I hate do anything without proper tools! Rigging with new parts is very pleasant compared to fix old stuff, all my boats before was just repair and updating, nothing like this.

I did piston research today. Piston to bore clearance has to figure out before I can order two V8 Nissan piston sets.
Transmash original piston is 149.46mm (in 18C temp) and bore is 150.00mm in stock, and yes there is 0.54mm piston to bore clearance!! It should rock like concrete mixer filled with stones. I heat piston up to 120C and it grow 0,34mm diameter, it's huge thermal expansion. Iron sleeve grow too so it help a little, 0.09mm from 20C to 80C. So how much piston skirt will be hotter than cylinder liner?
Nissan piston is 149,85mm so there is 0,15mm clearance in original Nissan engine, I heat that piston too to 120C and it grow exactly same amount, 0,34mm, than Transmash piston. How Nissan could work without seizing? I calculate that if piston skirt and cylinder liner is 80C there is 0.05mm clearance at skirt, if piston heat up 15C more engine will score piston and liner.
Nissan piston is much better design, its 0.60mm oval and conical, Transmash piston is straight and round. Both have 1mm smaller dome than skirt.
This teach me that piston oil squirters are must thing to every endurance engine, full flow coolant flow and three way thermostat is also good to keep engine as stable temp as possible.

If professional engine builders read this story, please be free to give your thoughts about piston clearance thing. I think bore liners 0.10-0.15mm oversize for Nissan pistons but it's sad if it rock when cold and burn oil.

The Mahle guy in this article says that you should call him

https://www.enginebuildermag.com/202...on-technology/

Really a cool and detailed documentation of your project. I have two propellers you might want. They Are CNC Mercury Racing 1500 hp. rated propellers. Like they are piece of art! The dimention is 5-blade 18x36p with 18 degree rake. I believe they will be very good for your 47. I have driven your 47 alot when it was in Norway. Have some old pictures. A fantastic cruiser which did 90 mph. on GPS with the 3 Merc 525EFIs with bottom paint! I sold a 2008 47 to the owner and that boat was the new version and also did have 3x525s, but it never ran more than 86 mph. They are in Sweden and owned by my powerboat company «Play Marine International AB». Have a good weekend!

have you looked into coating the piston skirts to take up the extra clearance?

Thank you! Your propellers are just right for my boat, but they may be out of my budget, I will send you private mail.
Fountain 47 hull has to be very good because it's heavy, big, bottom paint slow it down and it still run 90mph with 525's, nice!

I will be very happy if you can send me old photos, it's nice to know boat history. Look at your private message box, I write email adress there so it's easier to talk more.

underpsi68, I have think about that. Steve Morris (and maybe many other too) tried Line2Line Slick coating and it works. Coating reduce piston clearance to 25% from normal and hone itself to good clearance. I don't want send my custom pistons to US, it cost million € and take time forever, but if I find equivalent piston coating company from Finland or northern europe, it would be good solution.