Formula had issue with the glue together, seemed there was a few 35-38's that were not very well done. There are threads on here about the owners redoing them.

Fountain 47 lightning cabin stringers and interior without sofas weight 420kg! I driven through scale in trash dump place. maybe 80kg weight or under is coming back in new stringers and interior, sofas are heavy too and I wonder replace them by different style layout and interior. About 350kg total weight reduction center of the boat should affect somehow, I think.

Even the interior in my outboard Skater is crazy heavy by Nordic standards.

It takes 2 men to get the rear seats out of the boat.

It is an easy place to save weight.

That will really help on your bow lift and getting on plane.

I have been lazy to update, boat project goes forward. Cabin is cleaned, bulkheads are done and in place, stringer core materials cut and shape.


Negro hair roll sanding machine is very good for cleaning and roughing old fiberglass, I made vacuum cleaner connector for it, zero dust!




Cabin is pretty much empty now.


Old bulkhead fiberglass part tabbed to hull. I used Ampreg 30 epoxy, it's fantastic product, long open time and solid on next day, good properties


Little girl try help making new bulkhead as much she can, well motivated helper.


Vacuum bagging new bulkhead.


I forgot peel ply and breather this first vacuum bagging but it come pretty good part anyway, need just more sanding. Fiber- epoxy ratio goes 50:50 which is pretty good, I managed to get 45:55 ratio in hand lamination (without vacuum) too by very good biaxial glassfiber that doesn't swell when wet. It soak epoxy trough like 5min however, I do wet out on table, roll them and then carry them in boat and put in place.
Bulkhead weight 3kg, pvc foam, biaxial and epoxy parts are strong and lightweight. Did you notice my high tech million dollar vacuum chamber made from old cookware... works nice.



Nice surprice behind cabin rear bulkhead, 12 liters of water trapped between bulkhead and first bottom step! I drill hole to bulk head and water start flow to cabin side. There are no water drain passanges made original....


I put four 20mm tubes there. Both sides of keel beam and both sides of stringers, now it will be dry.


Front bulkhead bond to old bulkhead with thickened epoxy.


50mm 80kg/m3 Divinycell pvc foam for new stringer core.


Cut as close as possible to hull shape. Upper cornes is radiused after this picture so fibers turn nicely over edges.


Front bulkhead tabbed and smaller stringer angle test, it will fit nicely in place. Next thing to do is bond stringers to hull with thickened epoxy, make radius between hull and stringer and glass those over with carbon UD reinforcement.


I made test piece, light carbon twill over 6mm plywood, looks nice. I wonder use dark brown wood and carbon panels in new interior.

This is an awesome build man. I have been following you from the beginning. Hopefully this summer you will be enjoying a completed project and rolling coal all over the ocean!!

Nice weather come finally to Finland. No more mud and slush, -20C now. We were outside almost all day with family, but morning and evening was boat building time.
Lynx (big wild cat, you know) has walked through our home yard, it would be nice to see it some time.






Rear bulkhead is laminated to hull and ready for stringers.


New stringers bonded to bottom, I made them from 80kg/m3 divinycell pvc foam, 50mm thick, centers are 200mm height and outers 100mm.

Next job is radius bottom-stringer corners and cut fibers ready for lamination and clean everything very well with aceton.
PVC foam is easy to work, it can be cut by sharp knife, they are now carved as close to bottom shape as possible to save epoxy. Bonding is done with thickened epoxy, I don't want to any caps between foam and bottom, otherwice this style sandwitch beam won't work. Foam see only compression force between bottom and upper glass/carbon fiber flat bar, if there is cap between bottom and foam, beam won't have any strenght.
Boat should come much rigid than original.

Will there be no transverse ribs?
That would create a box structure and significantly improve the stiffness of the bottom. It’s great if the ribs are laminated at the same time as the longitudinal stringers. At least each meter one.

I think it’s better laminating stringers first to get these beams as rigid as possible, then add ribs between stringers. Boat is so narrow that ribs won’t make big deal, stringer distance each other won’t allow bottom flex much. But I will make them anyway and use all transverse interior parts as half bulkheads all way down between stringers to bottom.

Stringer lamination is 3/4 done, today night should be completed. All go well, good bond to bottom and very little air bubbles under laminate. Black part of stringer is UD carbon fiber, 2mmx50mm flat that should take 88.000kg tension before broke if I calculate right so stringers won't snap. Two 600g/m2 biax glass go over and carbon is capsulated between each layer.
And sorry about my phone camera, it goes worse day by day...






I make wet out table, it was easy to work with my friend, other guy mix epoxy, soaked fabrics, roll them over plastic pipes and bring them in boat. Another guy roll them in place and deaerate with roller (I don't know right english term)


I have done more carbon triaxial vacuum infusion tests and I'm pretty close to find out right way to build carbon drive shaft tubes. If all is 120% right it will delaminate, Plavutka was right about that but I have find out way soak fabrics completely to avoid delamination. I get help from my friend who have been in composite industry over 20 years, they did carbon and glass parts with infusion, complete boats too.