Way to get after it!

On the trailer, we are assuming the trailer/bunks are straight and level.

Seems petty but, if you glass it back together and it AINT straight, it will be that way forever.

Great job on the demo!

That is the worst part and will get better from there.

Your next step will be removing, cleaning and prepping for the new glass.
A bunch of grinding and everything in your shop will be covered in white dust.

Buy some disposable painter suits to keep the dust off of you and use a respirator.

The fun part (to me anyway) is building, fitting and glassing the new pc’s.

Many go for hi tech, non wood cores for the reconstruction which most do not need.

Fine if you decide to but will double your cost.

I always use wood and have never had one come back.

Wood failure in glass boats is either improper installation or poor maintenance.

99% of rotted floors come from an owner replacing seats and not sealing (old and new) the holes.

Same for stringers and transoms.

Many also poo poo using exterior plywood (the cheapest) but I do in all but the most highly loaded pc’s (outboard motor boards/transoms) I build.

As an example, if your transom is 1 1/2” thick, I use two pcs of 3/4” ext ply glassed together.

I also use standard polyester resin, also the cheapest. (Notice a trend)

Use two layers of 2 oz mat and drywall screw it together on a flat surface.

These guys take great care of me and are affordable.

https://fiberglasssupplydepot.com/

Thanks for the tips! I'm definitely looking to do this project on a "budget"

Trying to figure out what to do with the outer stringers. Should I cut them completely out, or can I get away cutting the inner side to get all the wet wood out, but leave the outer side of fiberglass. If I cut the stringer completely out, I think I'll be stuck with cutting the floor out.

Yea I was looking at that conundrum, I’m the type of person that would have pulled the deck and liner off and cut all the wood out and start over, but that’s a lot of work for this low budget project .

I would come in and do exactly what your thinking and cut out the one side of the stringer leaving the inside face of glass.


You do have the hull supported squarely at the chine and stem and keel right ? If the boat is sitting on the bunks on the trailer you could end up with a hook in the bottom from the hull lying on them.

Take a pic of how the hull is supported from underneath.

Long time no update. Not a whole lot of progress to report. The boat is in my barn at home now which isn't heated, so working on it isn't the most desirable. I did manage to get a pair of marine power remanufactured 5.7s. Got them cleaned up, old oil drained, new oil in, and mercruiser manifolds and bell housings installed. These were originally set up as volvo penta engines.


Also got some plywood rough cut and fit for the outer stringers and bulk head.


And finally started re doing the upholstery

Nice!

Slow n easy to get it done.

So the boat came with the riser spacers, and the holes in the transom for the exhaust tips line up good using the riser spacers. Am I ok to plug the port in the top of the riser, and only feed water to the manifold from the bottom?

Looking good going through it on mine right now.

Decided to ditch the motor box "pan" for a traditional stringer set up, and then decided to cut the floor out. Going to grind the whole bottom down and then put 2 new layers of glass over the whole thing.

First 2 layers of glass down on 1 side of the bottom! Going to let it cure before doing the other side.