Nice day out! Put that tub in the water and push the throttles forward!!!!

need a new msd box, coming tomorrow, sat its to cold but sunday looks better and next week. already put anti freeze in it last week, so if I run it sat got to do it again calling for 26 to 30 out over night. sun to wens it 50s again

ok we went out again, we tried 3 drive heights 3''=4=5 3/4'' with no change in handling. still porpoises bad like if the tabs are up at 50 or 60 on the 3rd hop it wants to lift the whole boat out of the water. so its not the drive. seems like balance. I will put sand bags in it one more time. wish I could find a p5 transom lifting prop. but might have to wait til next spring. the 380s bury the azz end so slip is hugh. worst case for me is I put a gas tank in the floor and it works until 1 /4 tank. so I would then need to pull motor remove new tank from bilge that cost 1500 plus300 in kevlar, and our labor., reinstall the kevlar bulkhead closer to the back seat. then move motor 6 to 8'' up front to get the boat balanced. we had 4 guys plus me at the ramp this past weekend. thanks to Knot right Gerry/ Donzi Ken/ Slick stinger Mike/and my dad Boxer Ernie. oops THAT was a secret. just kidding. but Ernie was worried that I would over push it, so he gave me a brand new lifeline to wear. it was a sad day that the longer drive didn't work, but I felt all fuzzy inside. that I was the lone pilot and would come in have these friend work so hard on this project, have me stay away so I wouldn't get the vest dirty.. well we have this weekend to see if the sand helps.= gas tank in floor. over the winter I will talk to some guys who redo the bottoms also SABER tomorrow to see if I take the hook out and sharpen the chines and strakes like on a sutphen or cig. I feel this will be a comfortable ride once we figure out the issue. it could be a stearn lifting prop and new tank in the floor. this video Gerry took again but used my hi def recorder so, I need to transfer it to cd/dvd with my pics that Ken took. you can see the boat doesn't look bad with the big tabs way down but, as soon as I raise them it jumps and by the 3rd its a bronco. I will not give up for now. but worst case I'll strip it and put the konrad on a y2k they work great on them, and the steve stepp hulls. cigs. y2k boat ran 94 with 800hp and the ace drive at 3'' they wished they went with 2''. later and thanks guys for the help. you make me feel wanted, not like my wife oops just kidding dear.

That seems like a real c0ck in the mouth opinion to me.
Everything takes experimenting, tuning. Its trial and error.

How many hrs water time in this pig art?

My thoughts too, completely new untried untested setup and has only been out a couple times. This boat is one of a handfull of sub 30' vees I would put that kind of power in. Maybe moving some weight around will help, but if they run fine as twins??? All depends on where exactly the CG is, but a 100 gallon tank behind the seat at roughly 6-700lbs full on a shorter arm than a 1000 lb big block plus outdrive on a longer arm should impart less of a rearward bias. Unless the CG is way back and the under floor tanks give have a long forward arm/bias I really dont know the answer to that. I still have the gut feeling it is more of a prop thing or outdrive placement/leverage thing but I am no marine engineer. I would be VERY interested to know the results of a bottom blueprint, removing the rocker and sharpening the strakes/transom. I have thought about it but would like to see someone do it first. Art, you are more than welcome to be the one to do it I know there is some rocker designed in, but is there hook as well, and if so what for?

The problem is the bottom. Why do I say this without seeing the issue first hand? Because any one that has gone and had a bottom blueprinted or a good straight bottom knows any of the many changes Art has tried would have made moderate differences when tried. When these changes (these haven't been settle) have little effect the bottom is toast.
If it was me, I would throw out the fuel tank (I would have never put the fuel tank were it is,ever.) and put one in the hull between the stringers, pull the engine and drive, flip the hull over and blueprint it. Then mount the tabs flat and have room to move the engine forward if needed.

Artie, sorry to be hard on you but if you want this hull to be safe and work it is the only way to go.

P.S. It would be hard to dump the hull only for any good amount of money due to the dirty laundry aired about it here.

Just wondering why you think the bottom is no good? As far as I have heard it didnt act like this before his current set up was put together, so something changed for the worse. What would cause the bottom to go bad, being messed with or something? Mine runs and rides great, I get a lot of compliments on it when guys with other boats have ridden on mine.

Artie, Gerry told me he was the only added weight up front for
your test ride. He can't weigh any more than 180lbs! I think
Ernie is right, you'll have to add more weight up front than using
Gerry. When doing these tests, think CHEAP! Add the sand bags.
Start out with 250lbs and keep going in 50 lb increases at a time.
Something has to change by bringing your CG forward. Hate to
say it but you will probably need a gas tank change eventually.
It's just in front of the motor and too high causing you to be too
top heavy. Just my 2cents worth. George

I said sand bags last week and Gerry already picked up 500 lbs of I was told

Mike....your right, it will probably take all of 500 lbs to calm that
unit down. Look at the Sutphens and Bananas with respect to
where the gas tanks are....tops are not much higher that the
crankshaft line....there's a reason for that. The stock boats are
as low as they can go. George