Yes, ECU's are stock on Matt's boat.

Deleted...:(

Yep I agree. Imagine some 500s on this 368. Probably 130s

I was under the impression the ROS's did have a little more punch and a little less weight than the standard 400, maybe not though since I'm definitely not the one in the know. Regardless there are some great boats coming out with these and think as we get a few more people playing with them they'll learn some more about what they like and don't and find even more speed. I'm curious how many more people will go the ROS route and see what the difference is in real world performance.

As for not fast enough I agree with that to a point but also disagree. That's pretty fast in a much more reliable package, it also is much safer. How much time do people really spend cruising over 100 and if those people are being honest how safe is that? With the number of tragedy's we've seen the last few years I think a lot of people are starting to realize that the industry has gotten a little out of hand and dangerous and that's another reason for the trend towards center consoles away from the monster power cats.

I think the more people that get in these newer 30+ foot cats with 400's that will cruise at 100+ and run 110+ will convert over quicker than we think. It's a way to keep the ride, thrill, and cool factor of a cat but get back a level of safety and lower maintenance without going to a center console. I say 30+ foot because once you get over that length you start getting a lot better ride in rougher water. A 28 is and always will be a bad ride but they're not everyone's cup of tea in rougher water.

I agree with a lot of what you say, that's why I'm converting my 30 from inboards to outboards. But having owned two 110mph 28s, a 120mph 28 and my 160mph 30, I am only giving my opinion that when spending $400k+ on a 30'+ boat, I think most guys are going to want to go faster than 110-120. I'll be honest, I will barely be satisfied if my 30 runs 130 when it hits the water next year (with whatever motors Mercury offers at the time), and I'm really hoping it will top the 140 mark if I get some bigger power outboards that I'm hoping become available next year. If I end up having to put 400Rs on it, because that is the highest HP outboard still available next year, I guarantee they will only be on there until the bigger power motors become available. I know I will not be satisfied with the performance of 400Rs on it. I absolutely do not mind slowing my 30 down from the 150mph any day/any load monster that it was with the Sterling/ASD power, but I still want to still be able to run 130mph any day/any load with outboards - and I know for sure the 400s are not going to do that for me. Again, I am only speaking my opinion from the past 17 years of owning smaller Skaters, but I can't imagine I'm the only one that feels this way.

I'm so stoked, I get my first 28 back for the Summer while my 30 is back at the factory! 1998 28 with 300PMs. It only runs a best of 111, but it's such a great boat (as all 28 Skaters are). At least I'll be on the water in a fast cat this Summer........ :)

Hey, do 28 Skaters powered by 300XS motors really suck some seawater back in when doing over 100MPH ? I'm not seeing any dry salt under my cowls anywhere. Wondering if it could be doing it or is that only an issue on boats with 15in mids?

Australia, Yes they do. I think if you go to Dave Bush Racing website, there is a video of a 300sx ingesting the spray from a boat, but if memory serves me right, it was not a cat. Mike Nass made alien style cowls like the X motors have for the 300SX's but no longer makes them. Somebody bought the molds and equipment to fab. them, but I have not heard of a start time of who it is. Maybe someone can chime in on this.

Chris Dunn is taking over for Mike Nass now:
https://www.facebook.com/performance...PAGES_TIMELINE

I can say for sure that they do. Having had a 28 with xs motors in the ocean here as well as running with Zero Patience this weekend you would not believe the mist up behind the cowling.
It's bad.

I think its time to set up some gopros at 120 fps and run the boat.

This should suffice:

https://youtu.be/Zfx6l8q3lSw

"I gotta new t-shirt" :-)

[ATTACH=CONFIG]566861[/ATTACH]

Figured I post a picture of my just finished ride 15 inch 250 hp etecs 3.3 on 3.0 mercury sportmasters. Now to get rid of the purple and move batteries to the bow. [ATTACH=CONFIG]566872[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]566873[/ATTACH]

Nice job how does it run? Weight in the bow is never a bad idea!

Anyone have the water ramp diagram where to cut in for the 24 with etecs. Cannot find the one I had I was going to send him.

Runs strong one motor is brand new rebuilt. So have to stay under 4000rpms for couple hrs but pulls hard with 1.62s and 30.

I've been looking haven't found anything yet. Thanks for your help

yeah I've seen that before. Do we know what hull that is on? I'm guessing each hull has its own airflow and vacuum characteristics at speed.

All boats will be about the same - 1/4"-3/8" depth tapering to 0.00" @ approximately 8" forward of the transom. You won't want to go deeper than 1/4" - 3/8" into the glass at the transom, as you might start getting into the coring/transom wood. I recommend you coat whatever you modify with resin to assure a seal-coat over what lies beneath. I had to do this to my first 28 to get my water pressure back when I went to 2.25" above the bottom with the gearcases.

Have any pictures by any chance? I really don't like the idea of getting in to core.

These are from a 30 Skater if it helps:

http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/a...egin-image.jpg

http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/a...egin-image.jpg

Those are exactly like mine from Skater. I would make them a little deeper...maybe 1/4" deep.

Look same as my 21 with twins. After they were cut in it pegged the water pressure. In the 21 there is no core there it's just about 3/8-1/2 inch thick fiberglass with no core for the last foot. I assume the 24 is the same.

Thank you all going to try this weekend will let you know how it truns out . I'm maxed out on plates can't go down any more so this is my last option. Also another how do you guys feel about hooking both engines together with a hose in back seen it done before just didn't understand reasoning behind it.

Again thanks for all the help Ryan and also here a picture of my last ride [ATTACH=CONFIG]567267[/ATTACH]

It's to feed the other water if it loses pressure when turning etc. when mine were cut in it pinned the water pressure gauges same with my buddy's 24. If your worried about getting into the core take the drain out to check but pretty sure it's going to be like my 21 and be all glass the last foot. Let us know how it goes.

Connecting the motors with a hose really helps keep the pressures equal in turns. Before Shaun Torrente showed me how to do it, I would consistently get low water pressure alarms when turning pretty tight in high speed turns. Drill 1/2" NTP thread in the port side of the adapter plates and connect with a -10 AN fitting and hose thru the rigging tubes to each motor.

It's there a valve between motors to. If one motor isn't running isn't all water going to dump out other while idling etc.

No valve in mine. I haven't had that problem. I guess the water pressure from the "lake" that the gear case is in creates enough resistance (pressure) for the water in the running motor to get to the impeller without dumping to the off motor, then the impeller does it's work. I have noticed an X-Cat with what looked like a ball valve to separate the motors, when desired, installed. A check valve would defeat the system IMO.

Anyone know what product I can use to fix chips on my spray rails from loading on the trailer? All my research says to use Iron 555-U that is no longer available. Has anyone confirmed that axalta Imron is the same product just rebranded?

Contact "EliminatorShane" on this site. He knows what to use. He fixed my boat spray rails. Does great work. Let him know I said hey!

I do not have a valve in my balance tubes either. Have had zero issues running on one motor as i recently did in Welatka LOL.
Also I can flush the motors on the hose. However some water runs out the other side but the motor does not overheat and still gets enough water.

Thanks Taboma, dubaudi yes axalta is the same product and they have a marine side as well and have refined the products to be better at ease of use but imron is still very tricky. If you can call or email me at [email protected] and I can give you the formulas later for an exact match of 555 u. Thx

You can also use chroma premier base with imron elite clear or other products. In tobama case his skater was a match at 555u but also the graphic where we touched those up is actually spies hecker which is what V.I. uses. You will have a problem with fixing back with gel coat because of the layup and Pete from skater recommended 555.

does anyone have pictures of how the back seat tub is mounted in the 28? Mine was just sitting on the floor with nothing holding it in, found some empty holes by the floor in the bottom of the seat. I removed the seat hoping for something still behind for mounting and nothing. Not even old holes in the floor. When the tanks were done someone must have forgot that part. Im thinking a glassed in wood block on both sides or a L bracket mounted to the floor with 5200 and screws.

Any help would be great thanks.

In my 28, I cut a piece of 3" radius corner, square tubing, 1/4" aluminum, the width of the cockpit. I removed one side to make it a U, then cut 2" holes in it on two sides to lighten it, and make it look cool. 1/4 inch holes in the bottom for mounting to the floor. Sanded, alodine treatment, then awlgrip white. I fastened it to the floor, with 1/4" thru bolts on the ends as you can reach under the floor on the ends, and lags in the middle where there is no access, 4200 adhesive under it. The seat then sets over it and hinges with removable bolts for pins , bolt to the tube and seat, for removal the two pins can be removed, leaving the hinge halves in place. I had the side panels made to trap the seat sides in place, and not move. The 3" height is perfect, to memic the original rear seat bulkhead in the rear.

Thanks for the info and pics. SeaDek looks amazing, its on my list of things to add before Key West.

Did you try them out

No not yet had a issue with merc clamp and brp steering arm so waiting for new bushings. So well I wait I droped boat off at glass guy to build battery spot by front bulk head. Anyways here's my pictures of my buddy's boat(Cody) Shaun's old boat now with twin 350s verdos.[ATTACH=CONFIG]567554[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]567555[/ATTACH]

how's the balance/cg on that 24???