Thats what I did before and was just wondering if it's the wrong way and will be over greasing.Thanks

Since I don't have bearing buddies, if the grease heats up and expands, it'll go out the front of the hub and not the back by the seal. At least that's my logic on this particular set up

I have the same set-up, grease fitting on the end of each axle, and haven't had the best of luck keeping my bearings in one piece for the past 5 years, for the 15 before that I had bearing buddies and never replaced a set of bearings.

AKA posi-lube axles. I just went thru mine before I left for Murray a few weeks back. Discovered single lip seals from the factory. Every single bearing was trash. Replaced everything and used double lip seals. I thought I was doing the right thing by greasing the axles several times while in transit. Noticed I have grease slung inside of the rims. Yes, over greased & blew out the seals. So before I dunk this weekend I'm replacing all the seals.
Docman...check the inside of your rims for grease. It may be time to re-seal but make sure you use double lip seals. Hope that helps.

I think that was what happened to mine.I replaced the seals from Myco and think they're double lip seals.Thanks

I hope this will help you out a little. Have been selling bearings for 33 years now and I also own a Myco triple axle trailer and have close to 50K miles without a bearing failure.

First off as good a trailer as Myco builds they have a real problem in that Dana uses Chinese tapered roller bearings in the hubs. Get rid of them and put Timken in ASAP if you have not already. The Chinese make some good ball bearings, but they are way behind Timken and SKF on tapered quality.

True Story: Just two weeks ago a good friend in Charleston called wanting my advice. He was upgrading all the brakes on his Myco and wanted to know whether to replace the bearings or not. I knew he had as many miles as I do on his trailer and had not yet replaced them. I could not convince to do so, however he did decide to pull one hub and when he did the rollers fell right out on the ground! He called me back and ordered new bearings and races and told me that I was right.

Now for the lubrication question. The setup on the Myco is the BEST I have ever seen. What I do is pull the rubber cap off the hub, clean the grease fitting off and start pumping. It takes about a half a tube of grease to completely flush the old grease out. I make a cardboard funnel to slip in and let the old grease ride out into a container so you don't have a big mess. Once all the old grease is purged and you have new clean grease I stop and clean out all grease from the edge of the cap all around the inside back to the grease fitting. This leaves enough open space to allow for expansion. Then I always put a NEW rubber cap on.

I do this twice a year but keep in mind that we trailer a LOT and for long distances and I don't want to take any chances. Once a year would probably be good if you trailer 10K a year or less. Then I recommend changing out all the bearings, races and seals every two years if you trailer a lot.

This may be overkill but I have never been sitting on the side of the road yet.

As for grease there are a lot of really good greases out on the market. With todays lubrication technologies it is hard to buy a bad product. But one I can personally recommend that works GREAT (and others here on OSO like also) is Mystik JT6 green multi purpose grease.

Best of luck to you and be safe trailering.

Over Greasing

Sorry I meant to touch on that also. Over greasing is a huge problem and the number one cause of bearing failure period.

Grease acts as an insulator and hold in heat. The bearing keeps getting hotter and hotter, the heat makes it expand, then the tolerances built into the bearing change, the expansion creates added friction which then creates more heat and BOOM it turns blue and fails.

The good news is the above mainly applies to ball bearings and others where you cannot adjust the preload. With tapered roller bearings you have the nut at the end of the spindle to adjust the tension (preload) on the bearing. You always have these just a little loose so the wheel spins freely and the bearings allow for heat expansion. That and the large cavity you are working with inside the hub plus the fact that there is usually plenty of air cooling from the outside takes the over greasing issue out of play. You are trying to keep water out more then anything else.

The only time I have a problem is right after I replace all my bearings and seals. It never fails that with six hubs I will tighten one of them just a fraction too much. I monitor them closely the first couple of time I trailer and you can feel the heat on the cap if you have one too tight. Usually just back the nut ½ to one turn and all is good. You must have them loose enough to allow for the heat expansion.

The end

Hey Dock Thanks for the info. I've been a mechanic for 25 years and your insight on the different bearing manufacturers was a big help.