Eagle trailer redo
#12
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Thread Starter
that's as far as I've gotten.
still have to:
wire the batteries
mount the aux 7 pin receptacle that is part of the SD harness on or in that plate. You can just plug your 4-way into this with and adapter and be done with the light wiring. I have a dual (7 and 4 pin on the side) plug on the truck so I could just plug them both (7 and 4 pin) into the truck
waiting on six brake hoses. bleed.
LED's coming
get it back on the ground and polished
make up my mind on toolboxes
install controller in the truck.
still got some work to do...
still have to:
wire the batteries
mount the aux 7 pin receptacle that is part of the SD harness on or in that plate. You can just plug your 4-way into this with and adapter and be done with the light wiring. I have a dual (7 and 4 pin on the side) plug on the truck so I could just plug them both (7 and 4 pin) into the truck
waiting on six brake hoses. bleed.
LED's coming
get it back on the ground and polished
make up my mind on toolboxes
install controller in the truck.
still got some work to do...
#13
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Thread Starter
good prices (great prices actually) on parts...
doing all the work myself as usual...
$2500 give or take $100
that's
six new tires
the Kodiak 13" discs
bearings, races, seals
Full on BR SD EOH system w/2 batt. breakaway
some new brake hoses
LED lights
100' bunk carpet
a couple pieces of lumber
the aluminum sheet
truck side brake controller
small misc.
the paint on the trailer is excellent as it has low miles and is always inside...
but, like the tires...and the drum brake problems...
six years old and time to get ahold of it's condition and safety.
I'm gonna have this boat along time!
doing all the work myself as usual...
$2500 give or take $100
that's
six new tires
the Kodiak 13" discs
bearings, races, seals
Full on BR SD EOH system w/2 batt. breakaway
some new brake hoses
LED lights
100' bunk carpet
a couple pieces of lumber
the aluminum sheet
truck side brake controller
small misc.
the paint on the trailer is excellent as it has low miles and is always inside...
but, like the tires...and the drum brake problems...
six years old and time to get ahold of it's condition and safety.
I'm gonna have this boat along time!
#14
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Thread Starter
I've been acquiring those B'stones since late last year.
0 mile take-offs and new spares from under GM HD's.
I have $50 apice in them. They are a good LR E tire. The straight rib tread pattern will run cooler and channel water well (not that I want to get caught in the rain!).
Much moreso that the light truck LR E block tread "all terrain" tire that came stock.
0 mile take-offs and new spares from under GM HD's.
I have $50 apice in them. They are a good LR E tire. The straight rib tread pattern will run cooler and channel water well (not that I want to get caught in the rain!).
Much moreso that the light truck LR E block tread "all terrain" tire that came stock.
#15
How much clearance do you have between the bottom edges of brake pads and the rotor? On my 8 lug axles, Kodiak # 250 calipers, (same as your setup it appears) the outer pads have the worn a groove into the rotors hubs because there is no clearance. I removed the pads and ground the steel down a bit, almost to the pad itself to gain some clearance, but they still rub. Eagle suggested the grinding themselves when I called to question this. The calipers have also grooved the rotors a hair. But just enough to remove the paint. Not the 1/16" grrove like the pads have done.
Thanks
Pics: http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/s...ghlight=kodiak
Thanks
Pics: http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/s...ghlight=kodiak
__________________
Some people are like Slinkies - Not really good for anything, but they
bring a smile to your face when pushed down the stairs.
Some people are like Slinkies - Not really good for anything, but they
bring a smile to your face when pushed down the stairs.
Last edited by US1 Fountain; 08-01-2008 at 04:59 AM.
#18
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Thread Starter
more progress...
after &*#@ing around with sheet metal screws and considering other ideas, none of which I was happy with...
I drilled and tapped 3/8-24 to secure the aluminum sheet to the frame. Also spaced it down with some more chit out of one of the magic boxes...more plastic spacers.
everything is thru-bolted
mounted the aux plug in for the lights...
after &*#@ing around with sheet metal screws and considering other ideas, none of which I was happy with...
I drilled and tapped 3/8-24 to secure the aluminum sheet to the frame. Also spaced it down with some more chit out of one of the magic boxes...more plastic spacers.
everything is thru-bolted
mounted the aux plug in for the lights...
#20
Registered
Thread Starter
I didn't like the breakaway cable straight and too long.
cut the plug end loop off and attached the original coil-cable from the surge E-brake.
I have brake lines and P3 coming Wed.
I am waiting to put the wheels/tires back on and put it on the ground 'till after I get them bled
need brake lines...
my order didn't go out for a week
and they are charging $28 frieght for 7 lbs of stuff from Mass to NY..
I expressed my dis-pleasure
cut the plug end loop off and attached the original coil-cable from the surge E-brake.
I have brake lines and P3 coming Wed.
I am waiting to put the wheels/tires back on and put it on the ground 'till after I get them bled
need brake lines...
my order didn't go out for a week
and they are charging $28 frieght for 7 lbs of stuff from Mass to NY..
I expressed my dis-pleasure