Nice job!!!

Looks great.

I just got around getting pics of my change over. Just have to take it to a body shop and have it painted now.

I removed all the workings of the surge coupler: master cyl, top rollors, slide pins, and shocks. Installed pins in the 3 rear holes and welded them solid. Cut off the rollor pin mount brackets and welded the coupler solid, then welded a plate on top and ground the corners down to make it look like a solid sq. tube. Also welded in plates where the rear most slider pin where to clean the side frame up. Welded in a plate to fill in the top of the frame where the fluid fill was in front of the jack. More room to stand when now when operating the winch.

Mounted the break away in the same spot as you did. I did however weld a cable guide in front of the switch so that no matter what angle the cable is pulled from, it will pull the release pin out straight forward. Had to make a longer cable though. Was afraid a side ways pull could break the pins loop off instead of pulling the pin out. Hopefully will never need to use this feature. Ordering the Maxbrake controller tonight. My Voyager controller proved to be worthless.

I would like to do that! (have it done as I don't weld)

do you have anymore pics of that process?

for now is it OK to weld the coupler solid around the front perimeter of the slide sleeve?

simultaneous posts

MaxBrake. Going all the way huh?

wanted to go that route but I've got to cut the $ off somewhere for this year.

I have a P3 coming found it for $136

I see in those 2nd pics that you did.

No, just more pics of the same shots. None during the change over itself.

The electric brake trailers just have the coupler part welded along the edge from the manufactures. So I see no difference in what you are asking. I just prefer to over kill. I did fill the slots in on the coupler tube with steel, then redrilled holes though it to align with the holes that the 3 rear bolts went through. Solid pins where then installed and welded flush. No way this thing is going anywhere.
My welder/friend did say his ins doesn't cover welding on this area for liabilty reasons. So he just wrote up a non discriptive bill.

If you don't mind, could you get a measurement on the OD of your hubs, and also the overall OD of the rotors?

I have yet to run across another trailer (and I check every one at the ramps when possible) that has the clearance issue I have. I'm wondering if since when I ordered my trailer, approx 5 yrs ago, when Eagle was struggling, they didn't just grab parts off the shelf giving me a mismatch of calipers and rotors.
Thanks

I have no high tech tools...(and I was a CNC set-up machinist for a few years)
and they are installed

a piece of string (measured) will do?

if anything you have the 8K rotor?
but ...they arent available in 1/2 wheel stud

so that doesn't make sense
and if they are right the manufacturing tolerances is(were) crazy loose...

Yep, or even a yard stick measurement would be close enough.
1/8" or so should be fine.

Don't know what I have, other than 8 lugs rotors and the #250 calipers.
I had an issue with one of the calipers when new (dust seal not installed fully), so called Eagle and they sent me a new one under warrenty. They just wanted the trailer serial number to look up my build sheet. They sent a #225 caliper. Found that odd.


Thanks