My trailer has Kodiak disc with EOH and they STOP! Very nice products. Mine are the E-coated and still like new. Fresh water only. Nice thing is they use the same pads as some cars, so you can go to Autozone for replacements.

No personal experince with Tiedowns, but I see them on 75% of the trailers.

If you get the Kodiak,,,,, get ther new orifice from them,,,, changes out just like a carb jet

I am also going to put the discs on 1 axle this winter. My trailer is 10k tandem and has drums on 1axle. My boat is 28AT twin weighs about 7k wet including trailer.....what kit do you rec.?I have a great tow vehicle so I'm certain 1 axle will do, especially since I want the Kodiak set....currently I have none so it will be a nice change. My truck is 08' F350....

If you go from drum to disc you have to take the master cylinder apart as well to pull the residual valve out. That is the only difference between the disc brake/drum brake surge master cylinder. Then of course you either buy the larger orifice adapter or drill out the existing one.

Won't all this be new equipment if I purchase the whole set up? My current actuator has been drilled and through-bolted to prevent "chucking" back & forth when stopping and accelerating; it has been "out of service " for several years.

It depends what all comes with the kit/parts you are looking at. The only difference between a surge brake master cylinder for discs or drums is the residual valve and the orifice. If you have a functioning master cylinder, there is no reason to buy another one, keyword being functioning. It seemed like every time I found something bad and replaced it on my trailer, I would then find someting else that was bad and needed replaced. So in the end I had to go through and replace every single part of my braking system on my trailer, but the last time I trailered and everything was working the way it should it was amazing how big of a difference it made (24 Baja, 6500 lbs w/trailer). I keep it dry racked so only use the trailer a couple times a year.

I found the chucking and banging noise came from the old master cylinder being bad and bottomed out and allowing the tongue to slam/bottom out. After the new cylinder was on and the brakes bled, there is no more banging and slamming when stopping/starting.

Exactly...I thru-bolted it cause of this reason....my boat is not super-light, but with this tow vehicle and extreme caution, I have been ok with towing....now with a pregnant wife and more trips in the future, it is time to fix the trailer properly. I should have done it sooner, but like I said, with the purchase of this truck back in May 2007 It is barely nticeable in tow. I will buy the 12" disc Kodiak full kit w/actuator and all....only problem I see is the lines are only 20', that seems too short. I measure 23-24' can I just order longer lines?

Go to your local Napa store for longer lines if need be. Don't know if longer ones are available from trailer parts suppliers.

What I found when I ordered a line kit is that the hard line was only long enough to reach the front axle, my brakes were on the rear axle which it sounds like yours are the same way. You can either get some bulk line and flare your own ends, or get an extension piece and use a coupler to get the line back to the rear axle. Option 2, while it may not look the best, would be ideal that way if you decide at some point to put brakes on the front axle, you won't have to change your lines out again, you'd just have to put a T in.