Crappy ride
09-05-2014 | 12:31 PM
#11
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From: Spring, Texas
I was planning on going to different wheels and tires this winter, so I'll definitely do that first! And it's a solid 18 inches+ of clearance on the tail gate, as you can see the drop hitch is a 8" I went to for my bumper pull to be level, the gooseneck was used on a stock F350 so I may need to adjust it the same, just figured I'd ask y'all first!
09-05-2014 | 01:06 PM
#12
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From: Toledo Oh
For lack of being able to tryand exlain it, stick your gopro under the trucksomewhere so it can record the spring and axle and drive over some speedbumps or similiar. Does the suspension even move or does it move too much and "bounce" over the bump??
09-05-2014 | 01:27 PM
#13
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From: Spring, Texas
NICE looking setup. Folks 'dream' about gooseneck boat trailers here on OSO all the time.
You definitely need to get the trailer level. It looks like you have a fair bit of room to do so without worrying about contact. Worst case, when cresting steep ramps, you might need to drop the tailgate. Going to a notched-gooseneck tailgate might be the ticket as well.
If you are considering wheels/tires for the trailer, you would want to do that before you do any modifying on the trailer. You might be able to get an inch or two of height on the trailer by going to bigger wheels/tires.
Last, looking at the front of the trailer, I feel as though the boat should be resting on the bow stop. Is the boat bucking on the trailer at all, or is it rock solid? It looks like you have a couple straps going forward, but nothing up and down. I think you would have a much better trailer setup if you had the V-block setup like Myco, Manning, or Loadmaster, and the boat was securely planted on the bow stop. (Ditch that roller.)
http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/g...p-trailer.html
http://www.loadmastertrailerco.com/options2/#bowstop
[ATTACH=CONFIG]528811[/ATTACH]
You definitely need to get the trailer level. It looks like you have a fair bit of room to do so without worrying about contact. Worst case, when cresting steep ramps, you might need to drop the tailgate. Going to a notched-gooseneck tailgate might be the ticket as well.
If you are considering wheels/tires for the trailer, you would want to do that before you do any modifying on the trailer. You might be able to get an inch or two of height on the trailer by going to bigger wheels/tires.
Last, looking at the front of the trailer, I feel as though the boat should be resting on the bow stop. Is the boat bucking on the trailer at all, or is it rock solid? It looks like you have a couple straps going forward, but nothing up and down. I think you would have a much better trailer setup if you had the V-block setup like Myco, Manning, or Loadmaster, and the boat was securely planted on the bow stop. (Ditch that roller.)
http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/g...p-trailer.html
http://www.loadmastertrailerco.com/options2/#bowstop
[ATTACH=CONFIG]528811[/ATTACH]
09-05-2014 | 01:32 PM
#14
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From: Spring, Texas
Yeah the boat rides solid on the trailer. Just feels like the truck is carrying too much of the load, like it's not shared equally across the axels, and wasn't sure if goosenecks were supposed to ride that way with more load on the truck, rather than only a small percent of the load like a bumper pull.
09-05-2014 | 01:49 PM
#15
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From: Traverse City MI
I absolutely prefer goosneck or fifth wheel over any bumber pull. There's a reason 99% of ALL commercial trucks use that setup.
It almost looks like your rig needs MORE tongue weight.
The trailer needs to be leveled so start with wheels and tires F or G load range on the trailer would be worth it.
Lower the gooseneck accordingly
Air bag the rear of the truck with airbag lift spacers
The trucks tires need to be at least load range E but look for a brand with an even higher load weight rating then others. One E might be 3195lbs while another brand 3850lbs per tire. Really makes a difference when towing.
Sydwayz is correct the boat needs to be secured tighter and further forward.
Worst case try something like the "shocker" air ride gooseneck hitch. I think what you might be feeling is the front to back surge goosenecks sometimes have.
It almost looks like your rig needs MORE tongue weight.
The trailer needs to be leveled so start with wheels and tires F or G load range on the trailer would be worth it.
Lower the gooseneck accordingly
Air bag the rear of the truck with airbag lift spacers
The trucks tires need to be at least load range E but look for a brand with an even higher load weight rating then others. One E might be 3195lbs while another brand 3850lbs per tire. Really makes a difference when towing.
Sydwayz is correct the boat needs to be secured tighter and further forward.
Worst case try something like the "shocker" air ride gooseneck hitch. I think what you might be feeling is the front to back surge goosenecks sometimes have.
09-05-2014 | 02:04 PM
#16
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From: Spring, Texas
Front to Back surge almost defines it the best, given this is my first gooseneck i'm not sure how they are supposed to or not supposed to act. I've only had it on and off the trailer twice now so still trying to figure out where it needs to be at on the trailer in the water vs on the trailer out the water...but def agree with the hard up on the front roller......I'll get the new wheels and tires on it and her leveled out before i do any more whining about the ride lol
09-05-2014 | 02:23 PM
#17
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From: Spring, Texas
Yeah i'm running a 127Q toyo tire, But honestly never checked the tires on the trailer, but def agree on going to a F or G rated on them since they take more abuse from the load especially while turning..
09-05-2014 | 02:31 PM
#18
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From: Collierville, TN and Pickwick Lake
The neck is flexing. The neck is a little light for what you're towing. Should be a minimum of 10" Channel iron. Looks like you have 8". Getting the boat on the bow stop will help but won't fix it completely. I'd try running a ladderwork brace underneath the tongue/neck where it makes it's downward turn, about 4' long and about 6" from the deepest point. I build trailers for a living btw.
09-05-2014 | 02:32 PM
#19
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From: Worldwide
Put hash marks on your winch cable or strap with a sharpie or paint. You can then use these to count and adjust placement each time you load back on the trailer.
When you get it settled, put one big stripe on the cable/strap, right across the top of the spool. This distance will not change, and it's easy to put the boat back in the same spot each time.
When you get it settled, put one big stripe on the cable/strap, right across the top of the spool. This distance will not change, and it's easy to put the boat back in the same spot each time.
