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-   -   Test ran the new Raylar goodies (https://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/velocity/351994-test-ran-new-raylar-goodies.html)

boatnt 01-18-2019 12:28 PM

FYI, fel pro does not offer marine gaskets for the 8.1s,those are automotive head gaskets, but it does not matter because it’s a closed coolant system

Ryan00TJ 01-18-2019 01:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by boatnt (Post 4668617)
FYI, fel pro does not offer marine gaskets for the 8.1s,those are automotive head gaskets, but it does not matter because it’s a closed coolant system

correct one gasket fits all the applications for this engine. GM must have Source them from Federal-Mogul as they were what we're stock on my 496ho.

boatnt 01-18-2019 02:28 PM

Used them on my last 496 rebuild,so far no issues

AusScarab29 01-18-2019 03:00 PM

I am going to use Cometic MLS

Ryan00TJ 01-19-2019 12:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AusScarab29 (Post 4668645)
I am going to use Cometic MLS

Definitely a good idea for your power level. For my near stock rebuild the Permatorque's will be fine.

thirdchildhood 01-19-2019 06:31 AM

Nice bike!

Ryan00TJ 01-19-2019 09:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by thirdchildhood (Post 4668706)
Nice bike!

Thanks man. Pulling double duty changing oil that day. Gotta love the Fatboy! Wish the weather would allow some riding. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...4fc7340673.jpg

motuman 01-19-2019 01:19 PM

Nice work and great thread! Are you a pro wrench, or just a hobbyist that doesn't mind tackling big jobs? (kinda where I fall)

I'm getting ready to pick up a 496HO with almost 500 hours and the first order of business is going through the fuel system, per BUP. Would be nice to clean the cool fuel module without out having to replace, since they are now over $1K new. Hope I don't have to go as far as you did though...

Couple of things:

- How did the cool fuel module look before you stripped the paint off? Was it flaking or visibly degraded?
- I assume the inside of the cool fuel module is aluminum? Any concerns about corrosion going forward? I cant get ethanol free gas where I boat, and wonder if the moisture would eventually start to corrode the inside of the cool fuel module? (assume merc painted it for a reason)...then again at lot of fuel tanks are raw aluminum on the inside, so maybe no worries?
- Doesn't sound like you are raising compression, just adding a little cam? Will you need a reflash or tune? (sounds like you will be watching A/F)
- Would like to see some pics of you air drain delete solution. I live in an area that doesn't freeze, so if/when they start leaking, might be less $$ to remove than replace.
- Problem with your exhaust valve tip coming apart has me a little nervous. Do it appear this would become an issue in the next "couple hundred" hours of use? Or maybe not a catastrophic type of issue?

Engine should run great when it's put back together, bet you'll be chomping at the bit to get her out on the water!

On a J/K note....can I drop off my new to me 496HO for a quick "go through" since you've gotten so good at it? :-) ....i.e fuel system clean, air actuator delete, oil system update, IAC check, etc

Ryan00TJ 01-20-2019 10:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by motuman (Post 4668767)
Nice work and great thread! Are you a pro wreck, or just a hobbyist that doesn't mind tackling big jobs? (kinda where I fall)

I'm getting ready to pick up a 496HO with almost 500 hours and the first order of business is going through the fuel system, per BUP. Would be nice to clean the cool fuel module without out having to replace, since they are now over $1K new. Hope I don't have to go as far as you did though...

Couple of things:

- How did the cool fuel module look before you stripped the paint off? Was it flaking or visibly degraded?
- I assume the inside of the cool fuel module is aluminum? Any concerns about corrosion going forward? I cant get ethanol free gas where I boat, and wonder if the moisture would eventually start to corrode the inside of the cool fuel module? (assume merc painted it for a reason)...then again at lot of fuel tanks are raw aluminum on the inside, so maybe no worries?
- Doesn't sound like you are raising compression, just adding a little cam? Will you need a reflash or tune? (sounds like you will be watching A/F)
- Would like to see some pics of you air drain delete solution. I live in an area that doesn't freeze, so if/when they start leaking, might be less $$ to remove than replace.
- Problem with your exhaust valve tip coming apart has me a little nervous. Do it appear this would become an issue in the next "couple hundred" hours of use? Or maybe not a catastrophic type of issue?

Engine should run great when it's put back together, bet you'll be chomping at the bit to get her out on the water!

On a J/K note....can I drop off my new to me 496HO for a quick "go through" since you've gotten so good at it? :-) ....i.e fuel system clean, air actuator delete, oil system update, IAC check, etc

Father and I built marine engines for our boats. My first go around with the gen 7 8.1. The internal paint in the cool fuel module is due to merc overspray. The whole internal housing is not painted. I had alot of paint flakes in my injectors when cleaned. I will be monitoring AF/R. Larry @ Raylar said a 4-5psi bump in base fuel pressure will be needed to get fuel ratios on line. I will adjust as necessary. The air drain delete is basically a 1.25" stainless barb adapter in their place. I'll post pics soon when its plumbed up.

The machine shop says they've seen it alot before on GM valves. Bad news if it happens. That top piece will fall into the engine. Many scary scenarios from that alone. Then you lose correct preload on that lifter/valve. Rocker arm no longer pushes on valve. Something will give as the rocker is still moving. Who knows how long they would have lasted? I played it safe and replaced. The new valve tips were not beginning to seperate.

Really looking forward to testing this spring. Bring yours on over!! Be glad to help.

motuman 01-20-2019 12:53 PM

Hey, thanks for the info.

Kinda have me worried about the valve issue. As mentioned I'm looking at picking up a boat with a 496HO with something over 400 hours (waiting to scan when it comes out of winter storage) and was planning on the usual PPI with leakown test, etc.

Now has me wondering if I need to check the valves? Assume you would have to remove a couple of rocker arms to inspect the tips?

If you were buying another 496HO, would you pay to inspect for this problem?

Thx !


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