Im have been trying to get a hold of him, soon as I find out I will let you know.

hey lets get this going.... before long i know one of my dumb a$$ frends will break mine

Sorry guys been busy. Every mold would be different and the upfront cost on building a mold isn't cheap.

A couple of local to me OSO members are trying some bonding and reinforcing on a broken windscreen on a 33 Outlaw.

I'll try and update if it's successful.

I'm going to "attempt" to repair mine this coming weekend....we'll see if it holds up. Unfortunately the driver side by the crack is also warped so it will be interesting to see how it turns out.

I talked to a buddy who knows a few people to that could build a mold...and Irish is correct...big bucks...more then I can justify at this point unfortunately....

here are my thoughts:

Get ahold of some 3M Automix 8115 or 8116 from some bodyshop guys. U-groove it on both sides, do NOT use reinforcement tape (or else you will see it), in fact the best thing to do since you will not be using the tape is to drill a hole every couple inches, so the glue has something to hold on to for strength.

After holes along the damaged area are drilled and edges are grooved, you need to secure one side of the repair area so it is straight and ready for repair. Apply a generous amount of 8115 and let cure for about an hour, then resand the other sides (to roughen up the surface of the 8115 that leaked through to the other side and dryed).

Once you have the 8115 in place, allow to cure for 24 hours. Sand to prepare for paint. you can use a flexible glaze to do the finishing touches before prime/paint.

NOTE: This glue is black, you will need to paint your windscreen to hide it. I recommend painting the entire screen white.

Thanks Scott...was going to text you what that 3M # was again.... somwhere between 44 hrs of driving, a tornado, hail and flooding feeling like I was towing Noah's Ark I forgot the #... Thanks!