Road to 60mph in a Baja 232 Islander
06-02-2010 | 12:28 PM
#21
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From: Anderson, SC
I can bairely spin a 25 to 5200 RPM with 500+HP, stay with the 21. With everything stock and running well 55 MPH would be on good days, loaded down maybe 53. If you want 60 that will cost you a bunch of money. The engine you have is designed for what it is. If you are planning on keeping the boat a long time you could do a complete rebuild with the good parts or you could sell it and buy a used 502. You could get a shortie drive or raise your x dim. Anything you do will cost you thousands of dollars. I would get what you have working correctly before start thinking faster speeds. Upgrades are for winter projects anyway, run it for the summer and have fun.
06-02-2010 | 01:55 PM
#22
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From: Batavia Oh.
I plan on getting the bottom paint off and it came off the back and sides where it wrapped up onto the graphics fairly easily. It looks like a couple layers thick and chipped under the top layer as well. Is the outdrive hurting my speed to? the prop says baja marine on it so i am guessing its 13 years old but other than the very dull edge seams ok a few small chips and dings. Do i need a lower unit spacer...what is first to help improve my slip numbers. I am hoping to try these other props wed morning. Thanks for your help in advance.
start with the basics...Yes the bottom paint is slowing you down....Yes, Your torn up Skeg is slowing you down..Yes the bent up anti Cav plate is slowing you down...Yes the Oxidation on your lower unit is slowing you down...Yes your banged up prop is slowing you down...
Fix what you have before throwing $ away on other crap
06-02-2010 | 01:58 PM
#23
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From: Bradenton Florida
start with the basics...Yes the bottom paint is slowing you down....Yes, Your torn up Skeg is slowing you down..Yes the bent up anti Cav plate is slowing you down...Yes the Oxidation on your lower unit is slowing you down...Yes your banged up prop is slowing you down...
Fix what you have before throwing $ away on other crap
Fix what you have before throwing $ away on other crap
And i still say u can spin a 330 to 5 K RPM..hahaha
06-02-2010 | 06:13 PM
#25
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From: Anderson, SC
Done I will agree to get that all fixed before I do anything else. Now another question. If all those things are in play wont my speed pick up to 55ish and rpms increase more? that friction should be slowing the rpms down right? after that stuff is fixed will i be turning close to 5000? does that leave room for a labbed 23? I have read that a labbed prop will turn a hundred rpms or more than its untouched version. if you gain a couple hundred rpms then go up 2 inches in pitch which slow you down 400 i should be running a labbed 23? or am I overthinking this?
06-02-2010 | 08:33 PM
#26
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From: Iowa
Next time it get it serviced I will inquire about the x dim and gear ratio.
06-02-2010 | 09:13 PM
#27
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From: Millstadt, IL
I've been drag racing for years now and was thinking cheap was in the thousands. I was thinking heads, cam, intake and carb=2500$=500hp I could buy my buddy's blower carb and ignition setup for about $2500 too. I know I could bolt on those parts in a weekend but I would like to buy up parts for the first cold snap. Thanks for the help so far and keep it coming. I usually buy used parts and wait for good deals. I am just trying speed it up a bit not build a race boat...yet.
06-03-2010 | 12:30 PM
#29
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From: Millstadt, IL
