My new 26' OUTLAW
#71
i swapped inserts, then tried a brand new one, and got one of the metal ones with the rubber slide things (sorry, dont know the real name) all do the same thing. i thought maybe it was my boat, ujoint or something. i tossed a 23p i have sitting here off my dads 26ol and it was fine. that with the same insert.
also, for what its worth, back to why i would not go bblades. after all the shipping cost, time and time again etc etc etc i got nothing out of it. my top end is exactly the same, my cruze speed is up about 1mph and my hole shot is slower because the boat wont spin the prop.
you can see why i would not use or recommend them now?
also, so you know. im not some punk kid behind a key board, im 30 years old, and i know what speed is. i have race cars, race sleds etc etc and i test a lot of stuff.
that sais all my testing is done on the same day, same weight (besides fuel used) with 2 gps units, one mounted in boat and one hand held mounted next to seat.
my testing is not testing that i just toss together. im very into this and every mph or second counts, im very meticulous with my tuning.
also, for what its worth, back to why i would not go bblades. after all the shipping cost, time and time again etc etc etc i got nothing out of it. my top end is exactly the same, my cruze speed is up about 1mph and my hole shot is slower because the boat wont spin the prop.
you can see why i would not use or recommend them now?
also, so you know. im not some punk kid behind a key board, im 30 years old, and i know what speed is. i have race cars, race sleds etc etc and i test a lot of stuff.
that sais all my testing is done on the same day, same weight (besides fuel used) with 2 gps units, one mounted in boat and one hand held mounted next to seat.
my testing is not testing that i just toss together. im very into this and every mph or second counts, im very meticulous with my tuning.
It's just a different world. Add 100 Hp to your drag car and you'll see and feel a gain. Add that same 100 to a boat and you may feel the power and gain nothing in terms of speed.
A few things to cinsider:
1) you may be at the hydrodynamic limit of the hull
2) you may not know what you're doing or how to do it correctly
3) your hull may have a surface issue (hook)
4) your perceived vibration may be normal. We have no way of knowing if it was shaking the dash out of the boat at idle or at any RPM from idle to 4800.
Do you know the RPM limit of the motor in question?
#72
First off boating isn't cheap and all your "racing" knowledge is worth nothing on the water. Two different animals with entirely differing principals with respect to both power to weight ratios and what that power does. Research how many guys have been "race car engine builders" who failed miserably building marine engines.
It's just a different world. Add 100 Hp to your drag car and you'll see and feel a gain. Add that same 100 to a boat and you may feel the power and gain nothing in terms of speed.
A few things to cinsider:
1) you may be at the hydrodynamic limit of the hull
2) you may not know what you're doing or how to do it correctly
3) your hull may have a surface issue (hook)
4) your perceived vibration may be normal. We have no way of knowing if it was shaking the dash out of the boat at idle or at any RPM from idle to 4800.
Do you know the RPM limit of the motor in question?
It's just a different world. Add 100 Hp to your drag car and you'll see and feel a gain. Add that same 100 to a boat and you may feel the power and gain nothing in terms of speed.
A few things to cinsider:
1) you may be at the hydrodynamic limit of the hull
2) you may not know what you're doing or how to do it correctly
3) your hull may have a surface issue (hook)
4) your perceived vibration may be normal. We have no way of knowing if it was shaking the dash out of the boat at idle or at any RPM from idle to 4800.
Do you know the RPM limit of the motor in question?
ive also messed with a pile of other boats and i understand boats very well. ive been boating for 30 years had my own boat since before i had a car, and know that they are different then racing my cars and sleds. i know that and thats why i left mine stock as a rock. lol i know better, i know how much it cost to fix parts, i know what it takes in labor, i know it so i left it stock so i could just enjoy it. lol im smarter then i sound. lol
anyhow, on my end i know that the boat didnt shake before, i know that if i put other props on it she is fine so i know its not the boat.
as for the boat, im not looking to go 5 mph faster with a prop swap, i was hitting the rev limiter with my 22p so i ended up going to b blades hoping to get a prop that would help by not hitting the limiter and hope to gain a bit of speed. what i did was got a prop that wouldnt let me go over 4400 rpm, then 4500, then 46oo and now she is at 4800. lol all with the same top end. lol
also, i compare my racing to boating as to say im not some guy who just got a boat and tossed a prop on and didnt gain. ive tested back to back, i take very good notes on temps, load, tide, chop etc and compare it as close as i can.
#73
Registered

Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,899
Likes: 20
From: Millstadt, IL
#74
Registered

Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,899
Likes: 20
From: Millstadt, IL
I do agree with most of what you are saying. You could sell the motor then build a BBC to your specs, forged internals, roller cam, ect....
#75
I just want to add my 2 cents
, no way I would pay for a kit at 7000 plus with a cam and a few small parts. have you tried a merc rev 4 prop. its good for deep drives as in baja. I would call brett at blades get a stock 23 see what it does. when you send it back to be labbed if needed you might pick up 2mph all around over a mirage. also for 15,000 I now a few builders that will build you a carbed motor new in the 550 to 650hp he has a 750hp for 18,000. thats if you wanted 550 plus hp. otherwise lab prop, buy stainless marine exhaust or hardin headers from Diamond marine Bill on here. also theres tyler crooket for add ons to your 496. a shortie works better on boats that are stuck going over 80 it seems. I spent 30,000 on my ol24 over 10yrs to go from 62 to mid 80s. and it was worth it. now I want a 100 plus and have about doubled that in 2 yrs on my 28 saber with the konrad ace drive and gellner racing blown 572. which will never get done in all this rain
. going back to a shortie what to do 1st is post your propshaft height . if your at 6 to 7'' thats deep a 2'' should work fine. if your at 5'' or 5 1/2'' go with a 1'' shortie. my boat was about 7 or 7 1/2'' and with the 2'' and a carb change ,I went to a nickerson 1050 over a 850bg I picked up 8mph. I think the 850 was lean at 5200. the boat hit 6000rpm with the 1050. so thers 800rpm plus better drag with the lower.they have worked great on a friends 31 sutphen he was at 4 3/8'' propshaft height went to 3 3/8'' picked up a few mph plus handled better he has 900hp 540 blown doing 92 to 94. so since its spring now spend 3gs on headers and a prop by brett a rev 4 might work. but to spend 7gs plus labor, I would put that a side for a new motor and keep yours as a back up. theres a 800efi potter motor for sale too. it was in a 30superboat for 1 or 2 yrs. the guy sold the boat without power. that would put you in the 80s with out a shortie ha ha. and its efi. b1 drive its a x right would be alright for a season or 2 as long as you were easy getting on plane. hell a lot of the sutphens are running mod b1 drives. and if you do want to mod your motor call tyler ask him for his package deal cause he will do the labor. other wise the 7000 kit for labor should not be more than 1500 to 2500 tops. my builders I know some start at 3500 for freshing up 454s or 502s , more for going to a hyd roller about 1500.
, no way I would pay for a kit at 7000 plus with a cam and a few small parts. have you tried a merc rev 4 prop. its good for deep drives as in baja. I would call brett at blades get a stock 23 see what it does. when you send it back to be labbed if needed you might pick up 2mph all around over a mirage. also for 15,000 I now a few builders that will build you a carbed motor new in the 550 to 650hp he has a 750hp for 18,000. thats if you wanted 550 plus hp. otherwise lab prop, buy stainless marine exhaust or hardin headers from Diamond marine Bill on here. also theres tyler crooket for add ons to your 496. a shortie works better on boats that are stuck going over 80 it seems. I spent 30,000 on my ol24 over 10yrs to go from 62 to mid 80s. and it was worth it. now I want a 100 plus and have about doubled that in 2 yrs on my 28 saber with the konrad ace drive and gellner racing blown 572. which will never get done in all this rain
. going back to a shortie what to do 1st is post your propshaft height . if your at 6 to 7'' thats deep a 2'' should work fine. if your at 5'' or 5 1/2'' go with a 1'' shortie. my boat was about 7 or 7 1/2'' and with the 2'' and a carb change ,I went to a nickerson 1050 over a 850bg I picked up 8mph. I think the 850 was lean at 5200. the boat hit 6000rpm with the 1050. so thers 800rpm plus better drag with the lower.they have worked great on a friends 31 sutphen he was at 4 3/8'' propshaft height went to 3 3/8'' picked up a few mph plus handled better he has 900hp 540 blown doing 92 to 94. so since its spring now spend 3gs on headers and a prop by brett a rev 4 might work. but to spend 7gs plus labor, I would put that a side for a new motor and keep yours as a back up. theres a 800efi potter motor for sale too. it was in a 30superboat for 1 or 2 yrs. the guy sold the boat without power. that would put you in the 80s with out a shortie ha ha. and its efi. b1 drive its a x right would be alright for a season or 2 as long as you were easy getting on plane. hell a lot of the sutphens are running mod b1 drives. and if you do want to mod your motor call tyler ask him for his package deal cause he will do the labor. other wise the 7000 kit for labor should not be more than 1500 to 2500 tops. my builders I know some start at 3500 for freshing up 454s or 502s , more for going to a hyd roller about 1500.
#76
. I hope he is wrong if I read line any of these I will be going fast enuffff.
#77
i tested my buddys hydro on my checkmate on saturday. it was unreal how the boat handled. i loved it, but it was only running 4600-4700 so im going to call them tomorrow and order a 24p in stead of the 25 i tested and see how she works. i was exact same mph as with my other prop however it handled super good with out the bow lift. i was in 3-4 footers and i was full out and just flew nice, none of the bow up ass down wave jomps. very nice.
probably test the prop on dads outlaw once i get it and i will report my findings.
as for the 23p on the baja. my old mans liked the 4 blade much better. the new 26 has a strange pad under it not like the 25 at all
probably test the prop on dads outlaw once i get it and i will report my findings.
as for the 23p on the baja. my old mans liked the 4 blade much better. the new 26 has a strange pad under it not like the 25 at all
#79
Registered
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 109
Likes: 0
From: Belle River,Ontario
I run a 23 Mirage Plus that was up-pitched to a 24 and then labbed. BBlades did the work. before I sent the prop in, It had some issues. @3700 RPM I could only go 39MPH with lots of slip. Now @3700 RPM I'm around 47 MPH. My top speed is 65 MPH(GPS) with a light load and just me. I have a 25 Outlaw with the 496 MAG.
My brothers 23 Outlaw ran 70.9 GPS with this prop.
My brothers 23 Outlaw ran 70.9 GPS with this prop.
#80
Registered
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 197
Likes: 0
From: Cypress, TX
Thats a beautiful boat! I definately dig the paint scheme. If I was you, I would leave it alone and mess with the small things for a little while. Get the right prop, and then see how you feel. Remember, you have low hours!!! Keep it dependable!!!



