IGW, at the risk of giving more unsolicited advice, I would suggest that you go back to sending the coldest water to the intercooler first. The specific heat of water is much greater than the specific heat of air. What this means is that you will have to flow massive amounts of air at very high temperatures to increase the water temperature in that intercooler. If you cool the intercooler first, you will end up with a cooler (denser) intake charge and the most effective intercooler operation with a only a slight penalty in cooling water temperature when it hits the engine.

Now I am saying this as a generality. I have not run any numbers on this. Remember I'm the guy that wants to know the oil temperature going into the engine. I could care less about what temperature it is in the oil pan (other than just a general idea of relative temperature rise). Consider automotive applications though (air to air intercoolers), they are always mounted in front of the engine radiator. Getting the lowest possible intake charge temperature is important, it is only important that the engine coolant temperature be cold enough. As a matter of fact, we specifically don't want engine coolant too cold which is why we run a thermostat.

Dan

The intercooler on our mill by Eddie Young is fed by it's own pickup. I'm not an expert on the subject by any means but Eddie explained the intercooler doesn't need cool water running through it at idle (can make your engine run rich) but needs good water pressure while making boost ie. pickup at the transom (flows more water the faster the boat is going).

No genuine advice and knowledge is unsolicited dan! I wouldn't of started this thread if I didn't want advice. I'm not a big social network guy, no bookface etc, so I wouldn't be documenting this stuff if I didn't want more experienced and knowledgeable guys chiming in. I appreciate all the advice!

What you're saying makes perfect sense to me. I think what I'm going to have to end up doing is rolling the water pump another hole and using the y inlet that I already have so that inlet would then point almost straight down vs right across the top of the stringer like it does now, then a 90 out of that inlet to the strainer. You can see in the pictures there's more mounting holes probably just for this reason. Hopefully that works because then both the intercooler and the motor are getting the same amount of water, at least that's how it's designed to work per Hardin marine. Thanks again for the input!

I've talked to eddie a couple times about this motor. He's actually not the only one that said they don't run the intercooler off of a pump because of the reasons you mentioned. And it did show signs of running rich when I started it on the crate, but it was also leaning nose down (blower injects fuel at back and compressed air and fuel exits front, so if motor is sitting nose down front cylinders most likely will be rich). But I'm not going to change too much right now, I know Teague runs there higher hp motor intercoolers off a pump as do the 850sci 1075sci etc. From what I can tell whomever put this motor together had a pretty good idea of what they were doing. The motor may have been designed and built for more boost (complete rebuild with dishes pistons lowering comp ration) and it has a 4.875" pulley on it which is low boost, around 6.25 I think, so it may have been built with the intention of higher boost and we all know what that means heat wise

Looks to me like you are doing a great job. I would love to be doing something like this. I appreciate the thought, detail and high standards you are putting into this boat. It will certainly end up being one of the nicest Baja's I've ever seen.

I think you're going to have plenty of power low boost or not!

Thanks Dan. The down side to the attributes you listed above is that they can make a project drive you crazy when things don't work how you planned and then you're racing the clock trying to get things worked out and still make it just right. Blah blah yada yada, first world problems, I know. But my head honestly starts hurting when I think of all the little things that need to be done yet and the short amount of time I have to get them done.

I was able to get a lot done this past weekend. Cleaned up wiring, mount shift plate, mess with water pump inlet.
My idea of rotating the mount did not work, this is the only way it can bolt up to the motor. So I notched out mount to allow a fitting. I got a 90 but it looks like I will still need a 45 elbow to make things work.
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Mounted shift plate behind motor
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Ready to bolt drive up
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Headers on. Once I get the correct an fittings and new hose for intercooler I can put the rest of the front of the motor back on. It's the little steps that have to happen in order like this that drive a guy nuts
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Nice avatar! I'm sure your first boat ride this year will put a smile on your face.

Thanks, the blue and the orange do go good together. Yea that first ride will be fun, I'll be a little nervous about everything working together but it'll be fun!

How much boost???

Your Stage setup runs on the standard fuel tune from Dustin Whipple is set for the 4.750" Pulley not the 4.875" so it will run a little rich but it should still run about 805 HP (with all the bells and whistles) at 6-7 PSI depending on exhaust ends through the hull, the I/C has it's own water pick-up spicket with it's own strainer on the port side, no free-flowing water at idle just when moving, the faster you go, the higher pressure of the water flow. With the problems you had my team would have had it done in a couple of days, running perfectly.