In case any one was wondering the Latham idea will not fly with a proportion valve. maybe with a dump valve, but I don't think its worth it...

Whats the latest?

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finishing the WRX still... almost done, the bertram in next in line for two or three weeks, then the 20' cig will be ready for some more love...

looks like I'll be finishing the cigarette b4 the b35. I pulled her to the shop so I can finish the body work, paint her and build her.. I'm going to have to chose between the arneson 1720 or asd6 drive and pull the trigger on an engine...

we will see


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well I have been giving this a lot of thought and have the parts to make it happen..

run two new 1720 arneson drives, counter rotating like the fastest drag boats in the world..

here is the idea..

I'd put two in line drives as the factory instructs on my boat, mount them so I have 12" between propellers. I'd use 4 super charger style or custom industrial factory pulleys and a toothed blower belt I can make a RR drop box that will take well over 1000hp with no drag from an oil sump. I'd need have a coupler pulley & maybe some pulleys to fit the 1720 input spline, build a tensioner pulley carriage to hold a pulley above the out put shaft pulley on the velvet drive..

I have talked to velvet drive and they say it will not damage the drive to have pressure on one side of the transmission out put shaft... but seeing as a tensioner pulley carriage will need to be built any way to revers the rotation I'd think a raced bearing shaft supported pulley can be built in for a proper drive coupling.

it be much simpler to change ratios, no oil or lube, less drag the gear or chain drives, good for the same hp...


but I can just bolt one 1720 in line or one asd6 to the back and put a sbc in and be done with it.. lol

it'd look super cool to have a little cig with twin arneson's then she'd have the big gun look all the way.....

The bolt on wind screen will be ready to make the fiber glass mold in the next day or so, it will be nice to get rid of the 40lbs of faring compound..


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still has to be able to go back to stock so also working the dash.

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still plugging away at it here.....

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So close

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Still couple days b4 I can cover the screen with mold release and pull a lighter kevlar & useable window screen.... funny all this work just going in to the dumpster once the mold is pulled...

I just have to work out the side angles a little and extend them a bit photo #3 shows the extensions in place but I still need to glass and faired them to be finished... The extensions will now stop at the end of the cockpit right at the rear seat back...

The rear deck and transom that was cut out for the o/b is fixed but with this cold wether in the 60's the awlfair kicks slow 36 hours ... I'll toss some photos up...

I also welded up an aluminum drip rail frame that will be both bolted and glassed into the rear seat to make a large engine hatch... I plan to fully kevlar the kevlar-cabin floor to the stringers and hull sides, this along with the seats new drip rail/frame "that is copied after a swing out door kit used on drag cars".. The boat will be 100's of times stronger then the factory bulk head system as the 20' only has two single layer 20 oz roving tab's by the tow panel abut 6x6" and the fuel tank box was in closed with a single layer of the roving on both sides..... building a new kevlar 1/4 tab on both sides of the stringers and to the hull will be over kill but very strong

I am also using west systems product for sealing the deck to the hull...