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Eric if you really wanna go all out just buy my SSM4 stuff and boxes might as well gain more speed there too!! then you can move engines and heights anywhere, Konrad stuff would pay for it free swap! I considered using this stuff on mine but do not want to take it all apart, boxes have 3" up and down, drives can be spaced 3" tons of dialing in..
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If you are still looking for fuel tanks, I had mine built at Sunshine tanks in Medley FL, they did a great job and in a timely manner.
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At this point if I was going to change drives I would go with that number six but I don’t want to add any more weight to the back of the boat my built platform is a bit heavier and I’ve taken a lot of weight out of the cabin I like my Conrads it’s a newer style drive super easy you get any parts four and they seem to hold up well to the power that I have in my transom is completely done really trying to make forward progress on the project lol |
Konrads .....that voice to text always gets me !!!!! |
Originally Posted by division1
(Post 4716711)
Konrads .....that voice to text always gets me !!!!! |
My Konrads actually don’t have the extension box the transfer hind the motor like a normal set up I do have the 540 Konrads but they are the sport lowers with the nose cones and -2.. Where the boat was set up they were actually kind of High The boat ran the best with 30p 5 blades. With the boat running in the lower 80s with only around 625 aside I don’t want to mess with the power and drive too much because it was a pretty good combo |
Another option for fuel tanks is Kehrig Manufacturing, they are in SE Michigan. I'm not sure how long of a lead time they currently have, but they make a quality tank. https://kehrigmetalfab.com/marine-fuel-tanks
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Thanks I’ll call both of them |
You sure you wanna move the tank forward ? I always thought the more weight towards the back was better.
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Well with removing the entire cabin I lost a lot of weight up there. And my new swim platform is 130 lbs heavier I am a bit concerned about being bow light and smacking a lot. We’re not putting to much back up there. Just want to make sure I’m not sacrificing ride quality to much. I k ow it will be lighter and faster but most of all more solids those liners move and rub the sides so much. With new full bulk heads in its going to be a lot stiffer next |
I owned a 97 TG Kevlar cover girl cabin and 2000 full cabin TG. The full cabin boat rode 100% better for Lake Erie water.
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I thought they stopped making full cabins so the bow is lighter and they don`t hop as much ?
Mine was never designed for 1000lbs blower motors, transmissions, extension boxes and #5`s either , it`s A LOT of extra weight back there plus with shorter tanks the fuel weight is mostly in the back. Rides great but I do have a full cabin with fridge AC 2 beds etc etc .. so.. |
Originally Posted by ICDEDPPL
(Post 4716817)
You sure you wanna move the tank forward ? I always thought the more weight towards the back was better.
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I agree, one of the reasons I shortened the tanks I didn`t want that weight forward like the original tanks ... right on about props, they can make or break the ride , mine loves big diameter. 18" and good cup mine rides great , 17.5" and smaller, no bueno
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Straight Bottoms all need the Largest Diameter props You can Find for SSM setups. ICDEDPPL is 100% correct.
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Originally Posted by division1
(Post 4716824)
Well with removing the entire cabin I lost a lot of weight up there. And my new swim platform is 130 lbs heavier I am a bit concerned about being bow light and smacking a lot. We’re not putting to much back up there. Just want to make sure I’m not sacrificing ride quality to much. I k ow it will be lighter and faster but most of all more solids those liners move and rub the sides so much. With new full bulk heads in its going to be a lot stiffer next |
That’s what I’m thinking to. I think it will work out. I will have to dial it all in when we’re done anyway. Back to glassing and grinding lol |
Originally Posted by offshoredrillin
(Post 4716881)
i would think that you would want to shoot for a more balanced center of gravity biased to the rear to make it where you can run with the least amount of input from tabs and your drives neutral or slightly trimmed up. like a 60/40 or a 70/30... once you have the new cabin in you can figure out the tipping point and adjust from there.
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Originally Posted by hogie roll
(Post 4716929)
From what points are you measuring 60/40 vs 70/30? Nose and stern? |
That’s my plan fully. I can add a water tank up front if needed but I think it’s going to run well. |
Originally Posted by cigrocket
(Post 4716870)
Straight Bottoms all need the Largest Diameter props You can Find for SSM setups. ICDEDPPL is 100% correct.
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It will porpoise more and be flighty, but faster, always a give for speed, Extension boxes would be nice if Konrad made them for the leverage.
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Originally Posted by Full Force
(Post 4716978)
I was told the large diameter props can lift stern too much and make it ride wet? I would think large diameter would bite better for MORE bow lift, not sure everyone says something different.
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Wel fellas wel just have to see how she runs when it’s together. I’m sure I’ll be taking some time to dial it all in but that’s the fun part.!!!! I’ve spend 13 hours total grinding and sanding down in the forward part of the boat. Coming along very nice. After I put all the new bulk heads and things in I’m going to gel coat everything down there. So I have been throwing everything from the cabin in the back of the dump truck. Including all the wiring I’ve taken out to all the trim pieces and we’re up to 1528 pounds according to scales. Spend a few hours cleaning the shop tonight
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If anyone is I interested I have a complete cabin interior all brand new only had it in one season from Xt it’s all white and even have the bed upfront. All the wood has been replaced with that star bore and all new material asking 1000 for entire cabin interior
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Text me about the interior I wanna come see it, did you have the counsole along port side or couch, cannot remember
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It has couches on both sides. I thought yours has the table thing.
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https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...379d8853f.jpeg
Stringer that connected to front bulk head by cabin step https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...098ae3cb0.jpeg Front bulk head removed https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...96e166324.jpeg Gas tank stringer at front bulkhead |
Had some time after I got home today for a few hours got the front bulk head removed that was a pain so know on to getting tanks out and start replacing fuel tank stringers and then moving forward to getting cabin all glasses up
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Damn , it`s basically going to be a brand new boat by the time you`re done
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Man I’m hoping so. I figure it will be a good piece of mind knowing it’s all solid and new. Should be fun and safe for years to come back
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Originally Posted by division1
(Post 4718220)
Man I’m hoping so. I figure it will be a good piece of mind knowing it’s all solid and new. Should be fun and safe for years to come back
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Going to be sweet!!
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It will I would of never thought it would of snowballed into this much but I just keep telling my self how nice it will be when it’s done some day
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Keep with it Eric, will be a nice piece when finished.
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https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...50a0dc89c.jpeg
These fuel tank removal has by far been the worst part of this project https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...3db689115.jpeg One out |
Should have pulled mine that way, but no I thought I could reuse the old, well that didn't workout
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