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Old 02-16-2025 | 12:06 PM
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Set up in our old cafe 4 Fosgate 8” Coaxle and two 12” Fosgate subs under bolsters.

New gun has all German Maestro 10 6.5 coaxles and 2 10” subs in enclosures under the rear seat. Like I said earlier I wasn’t familiar with GM until we bought this boat. Did some research and was surprised by the pricing. $600 a pair for the 6.5’s and 1200 for the 10’s! 😳 they sound good though!






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Old 02-16-2025 | 12:50 PM
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Originally Posted by thisistank
Set up in our old cafe 4 Fosgate 8” Coaxle and two 12” Fosgate subs under bolsters.

New gun has all German Maestro 10 6.5 coaxles and 2 10” subs in enclosures under the rear seat. Like I said earlier I wasn’t familiar with GM until we bought this boat. Did some research and was surprised by the pricing. $600 a pair for the 6.5’s and 1200 for the 10’s! 😳 they sound good though!





Love this setup, what amps?
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Old 02-16-2025 | 01:27 PM
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Originally Posted by hogie roll
Love this setup, what amps?

thanks! I wouldn’t have opted to put the speakers in the dash as I think it ruins the nice cleanliness of the dash but those speakers work well to carry the sound out and down to the water when you’re swimming.

May sound odd, but I can’t remember what Amps. 😂 system came with the boat and I never really looked closely at the amps. I’ll check em out closer when I’m out there next week (boats in Arizona)
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Old 02-16-2025 | 05:19 PM
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Originally Posted by ICDEDPPL
^^^ What size sub is best for hard crisp bass at lower levels?
I`d like to design a system that is very clear and crisp. Last time I had little tweeters in places, they helped.
So far I have 4 of these speakers.
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_206KM6...omnews=5020980
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_20646K...er-46KMC2.html

I have collected these used. (I have 2 amps)





open to all suggestions on subs and what else I would need for a tight crisp sound at lower volume levels.
I think what you’re wanting are 10” subs in sealed enclosures. I love kicker solo barics (square) they only need small enclosures and can take a ton of power. The surround is rubber and the cone is plastic, water proof enough for me. I have mine exposed to Florida sun and rain currently.
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Old 02-16-2025 | 05:30 PM
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OP, here’s a cart I built for you that saves you $1000 and doubles your power. 1200watts rms on 2 amps.

4 8” kicker speakers
1 10” kicker sub in a sealed enclosure
2 wet sounds marine amps

You will want to dial the gain down on the 8” speakers as that amp may be able to blow them at 14.4 volts.

If you wanted to step it up some, and spend more, you could break the bank and run 4 JL 8.8s instead.

With a dual 2 ohm voice coil subwoofer you will wire the coils in series to make it one 4 ohm load. I can walk you through this or give you a diagram. You will connect one red terminal to one black terminal on opposite coils. Then you power the open terminals from the amp.

The 2 channel amp for the sub will be running with 2 channels bridged. This means you flip the switch on the amp that says bridge, and you run on red from one channel and one black from the other channel to the speaker.







Last edited by hogie roll; 02-16-2025 at 06:06 PM.
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Old 02-16-2025 | 06:11 PM
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Originally Posted by hogie roll
OP, here’s a cart I built for you that saves you $1000 and doubles your power. 1200watts rms on 2 amps.

4 8” kicker speakers
1 10” kicker sub in a sealed enclosure
2 wet sounds marine amps

You will want to dial the gain down on the 8” speakers as that amp may be able to blow them at 14.4 volts.

If you wanted to step it up some, and spend more, you could break the bank and run 4 JL 8.8s instead.

With a dual 2 ohm voice coil subwoofer you will wire the coils in series to make it one 4 ohm load. I can walk you through this or give you a diagram. You will connect one red terminal to one black terminal on opposite coils. Then you power the open terminals from the amp.

The 2 channel amp for the sub will be running with 2 channels bridged. This means you flip the switch on the amp that says bridge, and you run on red from one channel and one black from the other channel to the speaker.






wow! That looks like a great set up as well. Where would I put the sub enclosure? We think it’ll fit under the back seat?
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Old 02-16-2025 | 06:20 PM
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Originally Posted by 87CigCafe
wow! That looks like a great set up as well. Where would I put the sub enclosure? We think it’ll fit under the back seat?
Bro I have no idea. I own a center console version of a cigarette 36’ wide body. You’ll need to break out your tape measure. Completely enclosing it under a seat with no venting will hurt you a bit.
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Old 02-16-2025 | 07:18 PM
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Default Right.

Originally Posted by hogie roll
Bro I have no idea. I own a center console version of a cigarette 36’ wide body. You’ll need to break out your tape measure. Completely enclosing it under a seat with no venting will hurt you a bit.

I guess that’s more of the lines of what I meant to ask is putting the sub in that enclosed box under the seat gonna be a bad recipe ? Sorry lol
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Old 02-16-2025 | 09:05 PM
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Originally Posted by 87CigCafe
I guess that’s more of the lines of what I meant to ask is putting the sub in that enclosed box under the seat gonna be a bad recipe ? Sorry lol
If you could space the seat up a little bit so there is a gap it would help a lot. You could play with it.

My formula had this grill built out of marine lumber by the previous owner probably professionally, it was nice.

I was able to squeeze a prefabbed box with 2 12s. This was a budget setup, lots of stuff pirated from my friends basement. Sounded awesome with 600 watts in a bigger cockpit than you’re working with.

I didn’t buy any marine amps either, just cheap kicker car stuff. Wasn’t ever a problem fresh water boating at lake of the ozarks.




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Old 02-17-2025 | 06:47 AM
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Originally Posted by 87CigCafe
I guess that’s more of the lines of what I meant to ask is putting the sub in that enclosed box under the seat gonna be a bad recipe ? Sorry lol
87CigCafe,

To answer your question.... Unless you're facing the speakers directly out of the enclosed space (as in voice cones visible from the outside), yes. Trapping a sub enclosure in a will, at the very least, throttle the response you get from the subs. At worst, it will make literally everything rattle and will sound like crap. Think of it kinda like putting the perfect sized carb on top of an open throttle body of lower CFM.

I'll make the argument again...

Amazon.com: Bazooka MBTA8100 8-Inch 100-Watt Marine Amplified Tube Subwoofer : Electronics Amazon.com: Bazooka MBTA8100 8-Inch 100-Watt Marine Amplified Tube Subwoofer : Electronics


Self-contained, perfectly tuned and compact. Strap it down/up, run fused power, a ground, on/off trigger and an RCA from the sub output of the head unit and you're done. If you've got space, go bigger if you feel the need. They come in 6", 8", 10" and 12", and in multiple power ranges. This link also has dimensions for all these sizes. Bonus: there's no wood to swell up in the marine environment. The cool thing about the marine version is that it's white. Even if you have to mount it out in the open, it doesn't stick out like a sore thumb.

I can tell you from experience, the 8" 100W unit (the little one), along with four 6.5" 3-ways (driven by a Sony Xplode amp of modest power that I don't remember off the top of my head) in our boat will run you out at volume. It won't run other boats out of the cove, but I'm not interested in doing that. Back in ~'96, I also had a 10" 100W (I think) unit in the rear underwell of an ElCamino that would turn the zeros on the head unit into 8's. At full volume, it would actually make your eyes ache. When I bought it, I hinted at some interest in a second one, and the sales guy highly advised against it. He was right. I can't imagine what two of those things would have done.

Thanks. Brad.

Last edited by Brad Christy; 02-17-2025 at 07:00 AM.
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