Gen 5 header clearance issues?
#11
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Joined: Mar 2020
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Just to get through this boating season you might be able to use a silicone hose to connect them. Much more pliable. Might have to cut another inch of of the exhaust tip to make it work? Other than that, I would go with modifying the exhaust tips. Going to have to "Pie Cut" till they line up.
#12
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Well, I managed to find these.
https://hpsperformanceproducts.com/p...44244868464892
Not too sure if they'll work, but might help someone else.
I'm going to send them an E mail and see if they can make a set in the higher temp silicone. (500* as opposed to the 350*)
https://hpsperformanceproducts.com/p...44244868464892
Not too sure if they'll work, but might help someone else.
I'm going to send them an E mail and see if they can make a set in the higher temp silicone. (500* as opposed to the 350*)
#13
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Joined: Mar 2020
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Heard back from HPS. They say as long as water flows through the exhaust, the 350* coupler will work fine. Was hoping to have a higher margin for error with the 500* material.
Only have the offset coupler in 1/2".
To have a custom piece made would require a minimum of 50 units.
Only have the offset coupler in 1/2".
To have a custom piece made would require a minimum of 50 units.
#16
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Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 262
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From: marquette, mi
I feel your pain! I guess I probably should have updated this post.
I fought with the fitment of these headers in my boat, even to the point CMI took pics for their R&D guys. They were very helpful all the way through, some were my fault…some were theirs. In their defense mine were some of the first few sets on the market. I’ve noticed since they have changed the distribution tubes on the front 2 cylinders from being straight down to angled toward the transom….
I took my alternator bracket off an “extended the radius” for the belt adjustment, so I could swing the alternator closer to the engine block and just run shorter belts, that definitely helped. I used a mill but, A steady hand, a die grinder and a chainsaw file would work too. I have the 90 degree rubber distribution tube to headers as well. If i remember right I did have to have one of distribution tubes flipped 180 as well.
Above is pics of the offset plates to cover the transom holes I had made, I used a wire edm to make’em but pretty sure anyone with a cnc plasma table could burn’em out for you. Not to mention places like send cut send.com would does plasma/laser cutting etc could do it as well.
I fought with the fitment of these headers in my boat, even to the point CMI took pics for their R&D guys. They were very helpful all the way through, some were my fault…some were theirs. In their defense mine were some of the first few sets on the market. I’ve noticed since they have changed the distribution tubes on the front 2 cylinders from being straight down to angled toward the transom….
I took my alternator bracket off an “extended the radius” for the belt adjustment, so I could swing the alternator closer to the engine block and just run shorter belts, that definitely helped. I used a mill but, A steady hand, a die grinder and a chainsaw file would work too. I have the 90 degree rubber distribution tube to headers as well. If i remember right I did have to have one of distribution tubes flipped 180 as well.
Above is pics of the offset plates to cover the transom holes I had made, I used a wire edm to make’em but pretty sure anyone with a cnc plasma table could burn’em out for you. Not to mention places like send cut send.com would does plasma/laser cutting etc could do it as well.
#18
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Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 682
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From: Finland
Do you Have partnumber For this bracket? This might help me with stelling green headers.
#19
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Joined: Mar 2020
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It was because of your post I ended up making a set of beauty rings like yours. Thank you for that.
I wound up buying a 1/16" stainless steel kick plate for a commercial door, and carefully cut the rings with an angle grinder out of it.
I'm hoping to not use them as that would mean I had cut more material from my transom. I'd like to find a better alternative if possible.
I did see Corsa will make custom tips and some of theirs do have offsets like I need. Will prob be around $450-500 though.
If you have any good pictures of your set up, could you please post them up? I'd love to see what you came up with.
No. There were many things changed, but the cyl heads I would have thought would be the only thing that changed the exhaust height?
Went from OEM rubber engine mounts, to solid billet mounts. These are nearly maxxed out, but the out drive dictates where the engine has to be. SO that couldn't have changed height. Right?
Brand new engine block. Gen V or VI with a fuel pump mount on the block. Not sure if engine mount locations changed? I can't believe they would. That would cause chaos for anyone buying the block to replace an old one.
I wound up buying a 1/16" stainless steel kick plate for a commercial door, and carefully cut the rings with an angle grinder out of it.
I'm hoping to not use them as that would mean I had cut more material from my transom. I'd like to find a better alternative if possible.
I did see Corsa will make custom tips and some of theirs do have offsets like I need. Will prob be around $450-500 though.
I feel your pain! I guess I probably should have updated this post.
I fought with the fitment of these headers in my boat, even to the point CMI took pics for their R&D guys. They were very helpful all the way through, some were my fault…some were theirs. In their defense mine were some of the first few sets on the market. I’ve noticed since they have changed the distribution tubes on the front 2 cylinders from being straight down to angled toward the transom….
I took my alternator bracket off an “extended the radius” for the belt adjustment, so I could swing the alternator closer to the engine block and just run shorter belts, that definitely helped. I used a mill but, A steady hand, a die grinder and a chainsaw file would work too. I have the 90 degree rubber distribution tube to headers as well. If i remember right I did have to have one of distribution tubes flipped 180 as well.
Above is pics of the offset plates to cover the transom holes I had made, I used a wire edm to make’em but pretty sure anyone with a cnc plasma table could burn’em out for you. Not to mention places like send cut send.com would does plasma/laser cutting etc could do it as well.
I fought with the fitment of these headers in my boat, even to the point CMI took pics for their R&D guys. They were very helpful all the way through, some were my fault…some were theirs. In their defense mine were some of the first few sets on the market. I’ve noticed since they have changed the distribution tubes on the front 2 cylinders from being straight down to angled toward the transom….
I took my alternator bracket off an “extended the radius” for the belt adjustment, so I could swing the alternator closer to the engine block and just run shorter belts, that definitely helped. I used a mill but, A steady hand, a die grinder and a chainsaw file would work too. I have the 90 degree rubber distribution tube to headers as well. If i remember right I did have to have one of distribution tubes flipped 180 as well.
Above is pics of the offset plates to cover the transom holes I had made, I used a wire edm to make’em but pretty sure anyone with a cnc plasma table could burn’em out for you. Not to mention places like send cut send.com would does plasma/laser cutting etc could do it as well.
Went from OEM rubber engine mounts, to solid billet mounts. These are nearly maxxed out, but the out drive dictates where the engine has to be. SO that couldn't have changed height. Right?
Brand new engine block. Gen V or VI with a fuel pump mount on the block. Not sure if engine mount locations changed? I can't believe they would. That would cause chaos for anyone buying the block to replace an old one.
#20
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Joined: Mar 2020
Posts: 833
Likes: 494
https://www.cpperformance.com/p-1388...g-bracket.aspx
And here's more that might help you out.
https://www.cpperformance.com/vsearc...ator%20bracket





