Go Back  Offshoreonly.com > Technical > Do It Yourself, Boating on a Budget
575 sci Back Flushing Method - Need Advice >

575 sci Back Flushing Method - Need Advice

Notices

575 sci Back Flushing Method - Need Advice

Thread Tools
 
Old 06-03-2014, 07:38 AM
  #21  
Registered
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Henderson, KY
Posts: 2,167
Received 80 Likes on 56 Posts
Default

I have flushed the gauge line several times - both with air, and with boat running in the lake. Its clear, best I can tell. The lower block drains run freely when they are pulled.

Originally Posted by Griff
Are you sure that you don't just have an obstruction or kink in the water pressure guage line????

Pull the line out of the block. The lines in the lower block drains get blocked very easily.
ALL_IN! is offline  
Old 06-03-2014, 07:39 AM
  #22  
Registered
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Henderson, KY
Posts: 2,167
Received 80 Likes on 56 Posts
Default

I'm not sure I understand your point Brian. ...garden hose??

Originally Posted by Sydwayz
Just remove the springs and the check ball all together. As long as you have a solid close end where you attach the garden hose, they are not needed. The checkball/springs can get gummed up with silt, weeds, and crap. All you need is an open Tee into the sea water side.
ALL_IN! is offline  
Old 06-03-2014, 07:41 AM
  #23  
Registered
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Henderson, KY
Posts: 2,167
Received 80 Likes on 56 Posts
Default

This is very good info. Thank you for posting about the fuel cooler. I knew is was a tube style cooler from the parts fiche, but couldn't get anything in there to confirm if it was open or honeycomb grid style.

My oil cooler had some minor blockage, but nothing extreme - both it and the PS cooler are now confirmed clear.

Originally Posted by 4bus
The fuel cooler, which I have had off many times is pretty much wide open. The return line runs down the back side, the cooler has an inductive plate to cool the fuel and pump, they are not connected as one. Very simple, and it wont even stop impeller pieces, mine always make it up to the oil cooler which I just remove the end cap to clear.


Have you tried switching the lines on the back of the gauges to see if it is a gauge problem? I also agree with cleaning the lines and ports, they clog easy. Hit them with air at the gauge, then remove from block and drain block.
ALL_IN! is offline  
Old 06-03-2014, 10:27 AM
  #24  
Registered
 
1 MAIDEN AMERICA's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Renton, Wa
Posts: 1,026
Likes: 0
Received 15 Likes on 9 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by easyrider1340
I don't have springs/balls in my thermostat housing - should I have them??
My 575 is a 2002 and takes them. I still run a stock T-stat and recirc pump if that matters.
#4 and 5 go on both sides of the housing with the long bolt to hold them.
http://www.mercruiserparts.com/Show_...mostat+Housing
1 MAIDEN AMERICA is offline  
Old 06-03-2014, 01:02 PM
  #25  
Forum Regulator
VIP Member
iTrader: (1)
 
Sydwayz's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Worldwide
Posts: 23,828
Received 1,195 Likes on 519 Posts
Default

Yes, to clarify, I was talking about the FRESH WATER FLUSH system that some boats have, with a spring/checkball built into the Tee, that the garden hose attaches to for flushing.

My mistake in that I confused the thermostat housing with flush water attachment system. (I missed the word 'thermostat' originally.)
Sydwayz is offline  
Old 06-03-2014, 02:39 PM
  #26  
CLA
Registered
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 618
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes on 3 Posts
Default

Did you swap the gauge just to make sure it's not on its way out?
CLA is offline  
Old 06-03-2014, 02:55 PM
  #27  
Registered
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Henderson, KY
Posts: 2,167
Received 80 Likes on 56 Posts
Default

I did not swap the gauge (yet). I am suffering from low water pressure and rising water/oil temps during a short 1/2 ~ 3/4 throttle run. At a cruise speed of 3200 rpm, all temps in check - and we usually rus between 3200~ 3700 rpm - this results in about 4psi on the water pressure gauge. However, when I feel like running a faster engine speed, water pressure lowers and water/temp starts to increase. Therefore, what I'm seeing on water pressure seems to be in direct correlation to what I'm seeing on water/oil temp - thus I've ruled out the water pressure gauge.

Based on what I've read and heard from other Fountain owners, I should see north of 15~20 psi when running at cruise speed.

Originally Posted by CLA
Did you swap the gauge just to make sure it's not on its way out?
ALL_IN! is offline  
Old 06-04-2014, 08:55 AM
  #28  
Registered
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Henderson, KY
Posts: 2,167
Received 80 Likes on 56 Posts
Default

Well, I learned a couple of things last night while continuing to troubleshoot.

I believe the intake hose is past due for a change - it's highly worn at the sea pump end. If the inside is as bad as outside, then it could be sucking it closed under high rpm. As long as I get the hose off the transom water neck! Its pretty far down to get a good grip on it (blowers/fuel injection in the way). Won't hurt anything to change it though.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]524228[/ATTACH]

I hooked an electric water pump motor to the inlet of the first cooler (fuel cooler). Water ran freely and in large volume from the exit of the fuel cooler. So I believe it is wide open and not clogged. I also checked for same flow at the exit of the power steering cooler. It too ran freely with large volume. So that confirms that my oil cooler and power steering coolers are still free (I removed both of them last week to confirm by eye that they are clear). Then I checked at the large hose on the thermostat housing and still, water was free and in large volume.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]524230[/ATTACH]

Next, I was able to reach the hose clamps on the intake hose at transom water neck. I was able to turn both clamp screws about 2 full turns. I'm not sure if this is enough to induce an air leak, but could be??? I've noticed no water leaking at this connection, however.

Lastly, I checked the nylon balls and springs in the thermostat housing (thought I'd been in there before, but I was mistaken). They were very loose, and springs were worn out. Based on water flow diagram, I'm not sure how this would control block water pressure - but they need to be replaced, so that will happen hopefully this week).
[ATTACH=CONFIG]524231[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]524232[/ATTACH]

Thoughts?
ALL_IN! is offline  
Old 06-04-2014, 09:27 AM
  #29  
Registered
iTrader: (4)
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Oneida Lake NY
Posts: 3,641
Received 29 Likes on 6 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by easyrider1340
Well, I learned a couple of things last night while continuing to troubleshoot.

I believe the intake hose is past due for a change - it's highly worn at the sea pump end. If the inside is as bad as outside, then it could be sucking it closed under high rpm. As long as I get the hose off the transom water neck! Its pretty far down to get a good grip on it (blowers/fuel injection in the way). Won't hurt anything to change it though.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]524228[/ATTACH]

I hooked an electric water pump motor to the inlet of the first cooler (fuel cooler). Water ran freely and in large volume from the exit of the fuel cooler. So I believe it is wide open and not clogged. I also checked for same flow at the exit of the power steering cooler. It too ran freely with large volume. So that confirms that my oil cooler and power steering coolers are still free (I removed both of them last week to confirm by eye that they are clear). Then I checked at the large hose on the thermostat housing and still, water was free and in large volume.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]524230[/ATTACH]

Next, I was able to reach the hose clamps on the intake hose at transom water neck. I was able to turn both clamp screws about 2 full turns. I'm not sure if this is enough to induce an air leak, but could be??? I've noticed no water leaking at this connection, however.

Lastly, I checked the nylon balls and springs in the thermostat housing (thought I'd been in there before, but I was mistaken). They were very loose, and springs were worn out. Based on water flow diagram, I'm not sure how this would control block water pressure - but they need to be replaced, so that will happen hopefully this week).
[ATTACH=CONFIG]524231[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]524232[/ATTACH]

Thoughts?
Do you have boxes on the back? If so check the hoses in there as well.

I have no idea. My 575s run 8psi on one side, 10 psi on the other cruising. At wide open I have never looked at them. Both engines run right at 130 degrees even after long hard runs (aftermarket thermostats)

A collapsed intake hose I guess is possible, however it is a think wire reinforced hose that can hold the weight of a man new, but I guess possible.

Pop the drive off and inspect water intake and channel there? Oring water jacket seal on drive? Any damage or additions on the bottom that side that could be effecting water flow to the drive? Impeller center spinning in outer rubber (this happened to me once, drove me nuts)?

I think you can leave exhaust out of the equation, usually lack of flow there raises water pressure.

Sorry for the rambling, I am puzzled
4bus is offline  
Old 06-04-2014, 10:50 AM
  #30  
Registered
 
1 MAIDEN AMERICA's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Renton, Wa
Posts: 1,026
Likes: 0
Received 15 Likes on 9 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by easyrider1340
Well, I learned a couple of things last night while continuing to troubleshoot.

I believe the intake hose is past due for a change - it's highly worn at the sea pump end. If the inside is as bad as outside, then it could be sucking it closed under high rpm. As long as I get the hose off the transom water neck! Its pretty far down to get a good grip on it (blowers/fuel injection in the way). Won't hurt anything to change it though.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]524228[/ATTACH]

I hooked an electric water pump motor to the inlet of the first cooler (fuel cooler). Water ran freely and in large volume from the exit of the fuel cooler. So I believe it is wide open and not clogged. I also checked for same flow at the exit of the power steering cooler. It too ran freely with large volume. So that confirms that my oil cooler and power steering coolers are still free (I removed both of them last week to confirm by eye that they are clear). Then I checked at the large hose on the thermostat housing and still, water was free and in large volume.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]524230[/ATTACH]

Next, I was able to reach the hose clamps on the intake hose at transom water neck. I was able to turn both clamp screws about 2 full turns. I'm not sure if this is enough to induce an air leak, but could be??? I've noticed no water leaking at this connection, however.

Lastly, I checked the nylon balls and springs in the thermostat housing (thought I'd been in there before, but I was mistaken). They were very loose, and springs were worn out. Based on water flow diagram, I'm not sure how this would control block water pressure - but they need to be replaced, so that will happen hopefully this week).
[ATTACH=CONFIG]524231[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]524232[/ATTACH]

Thoughts?

I'm dead serious about my balls. My old balls hung loose, my new balls are snug to the tube. At idle my pressure went from 0psi to 1. At WOT it went from 18psi to 30+(I backed off) on one engine and 12psi to 20+ on the other. Now I have to decide how to lower it and figure out why one engine is still lower in pressure. To lower it I can raise the through hull pick ups, or, lower the pressure relief tension on the strainer, or, loosen my balls a little.
1 MAIDEN AMERICA is offline  


Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.