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575 sci Back Flushing Method - Need Advice

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Old 06-04-2014 | 11:04 AM
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No boxes. And boat had good water pressure when we first got it in Nov '12. It has changed over time - and end of last year (our first season with it), it had same pressure it does now.

Originally Posted by 4bus
Do you have boxes on the back? If so check the hoses in there as well.

I have no idea. My 575s run 8psi on one side, 10 psi on the other cruising. At wide open I have never looked at them. Both engines run right at 130 degrees even after long hard runs (aftermarket thermostats)

A collapsed intake hose I guess is possible, however it is a think wire reinforced hose that can hold the weight of a man new, but I guess possible.

Pop the drive off and inspect water intake and channel there? Oring water jacket seal on drive? Any damage or additions on the bottom that side that could be effecting water flow to the drive? Impeller center spinning in outer rubber (this happened to me once, drove me nuts)?

I think you can leave exhaust out of the equation, usually lack of flow there raises water pressure.

Sorry for the rambling, I am puzzled
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Old 06-04-2014 | 11:06 AM
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I just called local parts house - they have one set of balls and springs left. I'm picking them up this afternoon. I'm hoping that helps, but my understanding is loose condition causes idle overheat - not high rpm overheat. (??)

I hope you're not just messing with me! ...loose balls, tight balls, hangin loose - did make me laugh. But when I checked mine, my balls were loose too!

Originally Posted by 1 MAIDEN AMERICA
I'm dead serious about my balls. My old balls hung loose, my new balls are snug to the tube. At idle my pressure went from 0psi to 1. At WOT it went from 18psi to 30+(I backed off) on one engine and 12psi to 20+ on the other. Now I have to decide how to lower it and figure out why one engine is still lower in pressure. To lower it I can raise the through hull pick ups, or, lower the pressure relief tension on the strainer, or, loosen my balls a little.
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Old 06-04-2014 | 11:16 AM
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Originally Posted by easyrider1340
I did not swap the gauge (yet). I am suffering from low water pressure and rising water/oil temps during a short 1/2 ~ 3/4 throttle run. At a cruise speed of 3200 rpm, all temps in check - and we usually rus between 3200~ 3700 rpm - this results in about 4psi on the water pressure gauge. However, when I feel like running a faster engine speed, water pressure lowers and water/temp starts to increase. Therefore, what I'm seeing on water pressure seems to be in direct correlation to what I'm seeing on water/oil temp - thus I've ruled out the water pressure gauge.
It sounds like you have a hose collapsing based on this.
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Old 06-04-2014 | 11:41 AM
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Originally Posted by easyrider1340
I just called local parts house - they have one set of balls and springs left. I'm picking them up this afternoon. I'm hoping that helps, but my understanding is loose condition causes idle overheat - not high rpm overheat. (??)

I hope you're not just messing with me! ...loose balls, tight balls, hangin loose - did make me laugh. But when I checked mine, my balls were loose too!
I don't joke about my balls!
The whole thing has been frustrating for me.
With Bravos I had 23psi
With SCX-4's and through hull PU's I had 4PSI unless I buried the PU's all the way which isn't right
So I made a 2" notch feeding the PU's-nope
I made an 18" notch feeding the PU's-nope
I changed the strainer configuration-nope
I ditched the Hardin SS pumps and reinstalled the plastic ones-gained 4PSI
I installed a different contour PU-gained 4PSI
I installed new balls-nope
I installed new springs-gained 10+psi
There is one other change I made. After I changed the contour of the PU and gained enough pressure, 12psi, to run WOT without overheating....FINALLY!!!, I filled the engine with water. 575SCi intake rot. So I welded and machined the manifolds and installed the new springs at that time. Of course, after I repaired the manifolds I get a spam from KE with their NEW 575SCi intakes for $750 each. I saved $250 per manifold but they're not new and hardcoat anodized.
I asked about the balls a long time ago and nobody said anything about them. I figured it was a PU problem because I had changed all of that and it was fine before.
If yours was fine before it has to be a restriction or worn out part.

What else have I learned about 575's besides intakes and balls?
The head gaskets blew so I did them, you've read about this I'm sure.
Then a cam broke, I've read that this is a problem too. Went .030 and hydraulic roller.
Fortunately I have the better blowers, oil bath front and rear. I change the oil every 25 hours, and bearings and seals every 100 hours or so. The bearings have never been bad and I have the 3.5" pulleys.
I've never done anything with the computers. Mine runs pretty clean unless I get to elevation where it'll start rich but clear out fine. The dyno pulls showed good A/F as is so I left them.
Last thing I learned is that bravo props last 1/4 boating season and Max's last 2 seasons. XR's last 100 hours not 104.
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Old 06-05-2014 | 07:18 AM
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We've had a bunch of rain here - so can't test any of the minor changes I've made. I did pick up the nylon balls and springs last night, and I should have the sea pump suction hose on Friday. Hopefully, I'll be able to dunk it on the trailer this weekend. Unfortunately, the Ohio River is rising 12 feet in the next 24 hours, so no boating locally.
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Old 06-05-2014 | 07:38 AM
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Do you have a go pro you can put in the engine bay and run with it on?
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Old 06-05-2014 | 08:57 AM
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Originally Posted by 4bus
Do you have a go pro you can put in the engine bay and run with it on?
Yes. What do you suggest that I look at with the camera?
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Old 06-05-2014 | 10:27 AM
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Originally Posted by easyrider1340
Yes. What do you suggest that I look at with the camera?

Looks like some of the guys would like a shot of your balls while running hard in the buff.
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Old 06-05-2014 | 10:57 AM
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-XmdQGsUX8A

Make sure the lights are on.
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Old 06-05-2014 | 12:06 PM
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Unfortunately, I don't have strainers.
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