LTZCrew

oh I know the addiction Tinker haha , I got a boat as a relaxing space filler for the summer weekends when my car project became to much, strangely enough, I bought the car as space filler to another project haha. always need to have one, I know there is always someone bigger and faster and usually has a lot deeper pockets. hell we have a hand full of vector boats running on the lake. this is just for my enjoyment, if I beat up on a few new boats that out class me its a bonus,

as for pushing the hull Hawg, don't all boats, even the 'go fast' ones have a designed limit? the tolerance is probably greater granted, but putting money into a boat I have vs buying another boat and doing that, resale drops either way wouldn't it? the average joe isn't going to want a boat that can cause a head ach.

Dbkski

there is no bottom paint, no decals or anything below the water line
as far as I know and have been told, the boat is not very old, from the digging in the hull I haven't found any

Tinkerer

If you do a bunch of engine mods to a Caprice it will loose a lot more value than if you did as much to a Camaro. The whole thing is that we are trying to forewarn you against wasting $ on a hull that you will never be happy with. I have gone down this road three times. I finally bought a hull that can handle my addiction. I have put more $ into this boat package than I paid for the hull and original trailer/

paulb32

You don't say what year, but if you have the Stable Vee hull, with the pods off the back, forget it. When you add more power you will need trim to get speed, and when that hull is trimmed, it slows down - the pods start touching the water. I've talked to guys that have tried it. If it were a "normal" hull w/out the pods, then adding power as noted will work.

dbkski

iTrader: (1)

If what paulb32 says applies to your hull and is true this may be a big problem. If the "after pods" are just a new name for "built-in hook", as Baja used, then it can cause some
trouble but as we all have seen there are a lot of fast Bajas out there.
If the "after pods" are just another name for an "extended running surface" it might not hurt at all. My Cobalt has the "extended running surface" but I really don't know what it
does. I have no bow rise on take-off and the boat is super stable at all speeds.

From the Four Winns website - these features started in 2011:
Stepped running surface reduces friction/drag while underway
After pods help the boat plane more quickly
The angle of the rise in the boat’s hull creates a smooth ride
Uniquely shaped chines give the boat a large, stable footprint

LTZCrew - It seems that model, year, and pictures of your boat's hull are needed here so that we better understand the situation.

Anyways here is the Grand Poobah of small boat modifications threads. It is a must read for all of us who may be "length challenged" foot wise that is.

http://www.speedwake.com/forums/107-...-they-run.html

It's also a great read for all you Ballers who might think we Microboaters are just a little better than lake lice!!!

Baja Rooster

iTrader: (1)

I'm all for sticking a 1000hp onto a surfboard, so hopefully the pods aren't a deal breaker.

Blueabyss

Those Pods or lips are for pushing the nose down while getting on plane. They are usually only on the outside 1/8 portion of the hull on both sides. They are not touching the water once your up on plane past cruising speed.

Chris

LTZCrew

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?f...0&l=2767c49eb3
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?f...0&l=c2df5303ed
its a 2013 ,not sure if the pictures will work but here is a few, you can kinda see how the pad at the back, it goes from the bumper on the trailer back and is about 8' wide and has a slight hook on the outer edges its also not in the water once the boat is at speed, seems to help kill bow lift and keep on plane at low low speeds, also gives some pretty good bite under hard cornering
then from the front you can kind of see the pad and how it narrows under it. when the hull is on plane the section in the water is a fair amount narrower then the full width of the boat, on plane its running just on the V portion, ill get better pictures this weekend when she gets winterized

I hear yah Tinker and I appreciate your advise but I have no desire currently for a new boat or to try and find a go fast one that does more then just go fast. its just a want to be able to haul ass not a need haha

Too Stroked

I offered my advice once before in this thread, but let me try a slightly different flavor since that didn't work. What you now have is a very reliable stock boat designed to look fast, but not really designed or built to go fast. Sorry if that hurts just a bit, but it really is true. (It is a nice looking boat though.) But adding enough power to get you the 15-20 MPH gain in top end you're looking for is going to do something else in addition to ruining resale value, destroying the hull, creating an evil handling boat, etc. What I'm talking about is the demon that lurks in most highly modified gasoline engines in cars, truck, boats, etc. That demon is poor reliability.

So getting back to the present, I'm going to go way out on a limb and guess that you really like the ease of trailering your boat down to any local launch ramp with minimum preparation, dunking her in and firing her up - followed by a great day on the water after which you slip her back on the trailer and go home. After you add enough power to get your 15-20 MPH gain, you're going to have one unreliable lump under the engine hatch. Sure, many of us have modified motors in our boats, but most of us chose that route and were willing to give up turn-key reliability. But the wilder the modifications get, the shorter the engine will live and the more finicky it will get when it does run right. Oh, and it will require more frequent maintenance along the way too. Do you really understand what you may be diving into?

Just my 2 cents speaking as one who has witnessed far too many people attempting - and virtually always failing - at the same thing.

LTZCrew

I hear you Stoked I know the nature of mild to wild motors, been there and doing that haha. I do love the ability to haul it around and that is the number 1 reason I don't want to get a larger boat, im no more then 2h away from a dozen amazing lakes and love to run them all, turn key is great but I know it gets lost with anything with any kind of real performance, I put less then 30h on the boat this year so im ok with it going out the window. I know when power is added almost nothing els in that vehicle can keep up and running into issues is just a where and when issue, very much expecting it. I also know that this hull design isn't way out there from a few other quick boats, I know that its nothing like a donzi, fountain, lavey, and so on. but its not big ol barge either, so I cant be totally out to lunch. people have brought up resale a few times. if I was worried about that I wouldn't be doing this, I don't plan on selling this boat, especially if I drop a dime into it. just like any project you take up. you do it for you. not the next guy...unless you really want it? haha

ar300johnson

According to the BAM speed calculator, you will need about 425-450 shaft horsepower to run in the mid 60's. If your bottom is straight, you can probably run 60 fairly safely. Above that, you will just have to run it and see. A good big displacement small block should make 450 HP and still be dependable. If you want to keep your boat and be satisfied with 60 MPH, try it. You don't have to run it wide open if conditions are rough and the extra punch will be good in normal operations.

Now if you want to run over 70, you will need a different boat.