2000hp in a 33 Outlaw nuckin futs. The hull won't be able to handle the speeds anyway.

reading all the comments, it looks like i will be trying to use Max Machine Worx drives. From research for the price, it seems they are going to be the best choice at this time, unless someone has a better idea. I will be bringing the power down to about 850-900, but the torque is still there, it looks like the power is not the main issue on the drives, but the torque is the big factor.

I had no idea, before i purchased the motors and now i am stock with big power and not being able to use them like the way i wanted to, unless going to #6 drives, which are way over my head on the financial side.

Would love to hear more on Max Machine Worx from any one that has used them or heard of them.

Who on here treats XR gears?
Was curious on the cost.

We use Max because of their race tower/bearing combo.It stab. the gears better.Send them your upper case and they will machine/install it.AS far as XR gears are go they will puke over a certain period of time.The key to not having a blow up mess, disassemble drive ever year and inspect all components.If you see wear on face of gear, replace IMMED.Sometimes they last awhile,sometimes the gears are worn after 20-25hrs,it is what it is.

ArticFriends did a couple sets for me a couple years
ago, was $ 80 per gear back then.

1000hp wow- really? Whats the build look like-?
Maybe you can step the blower boost down a bit with a larger pulley.

if you can pull down to around 900 you can use-

The Imco SCX- super strong

Teague platinum shaft- XR

You can have Teague rebuild your XR with his gears and shaft and Imco lower warranted for 1 YR with his engines its a very strong drive

Bmax

An NXT drive can likely handle 900

Yeah a #6 is the best choice- only a v-drive, or jet can handle more than a #6


OF all these options your best bet is probably a Teague mod, and a little less power.


Uncle Dave

And I forgot the very cool arneson drive- this to can withstand ridiculous power, and is THE most efficient drive.

the "Arneson principle" dictates the top half of the prop swing is a parasitic waste and eliminates it - with the props 3 to 9pm as the only part in the water- thereby reducing parasitic loss.

Downside- a giant exposed prop on a hydrauliclly actuated arm can kill towables, or skiing - the rooster tail is on par with a jet-o-vated equipped berkely on 5/8 UP - and can be considered dangerous for swimming etc. They make a guard for it, but it is what it is.

Uncle Dave

Mike wrote:
Hello Uncle, thanks for the info. Yes, we are going to change the boost from 7 lbs to around 4-5 and some other stuff, but the torque will still be there. At this time, we are planning on using the upper of Max Machine, i have lot's of good comments about them and for the price looks like what i can afford. Have you heard anthing else about the Max drives?

I have heard very good things about the b-max upper.

I guy named Quent has had Imco and Bmax and likes that B better.

He had it in back of a 900HP Tyler Crockett blown big block in a Lavey Sabre cat, and said it outlived the Imco considerably.

Right now hes got a 24ft LaveyCraft bowrider with an Ilmor 710 in it.- runs mid 90's

Send him a mail or look him up- waay cool guy & has first hand experience.


Uncle Dave

Do a search about Max Machine Worx drives. They lasted 25 hours on our boat.