gear lube
#142
Registered
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 468
Likes: 0
From: Union, NE
Only thing you did was raise your drive temp by putting in a thicker oil.
#143
I have read this whole thread and am kind of supprised that nobody has tried amsoil severe gear 75/140. I am just in the process of changing my drive oil and just kind of thought that if the 75/90 severe gear works good than the 75/140 should work even better as far as stopping metal to metal contact. The pourabilty seems to be about the same, not much thicker.
Has anyone tried this? Any thoughts?
Has anyone tried this? Any thoughts?
#144
no mater what if you over load a drive gear above what it was designed to do it will loose its boundary lubrication.Pushing the oil to mechanical shear, thinning oil to the point of causing metal to metal=brineling.
Thats why the make larger gears.
Yea im sure some gear lubes have more ep molecules than others.
also look a STP oil treatment,the money they made selling a treatment,advertising/promoting a product thats better than all the rest,theres a new oil company selling something new every month.
Thats why the make larger gears.
Yea im sure some gear lubes have more ep molecules than others.
also look a STP oil treatment,the money they made selling a treatment,advertising/promoting a product thats better than all the rest,theres a new oil company selling something new every month.

#145
Cant keep comparing #6 dry sumps to bravos..
The drysumps have oil pumps that spray the gears!!
This is the reason you can run a lighter weight oil !!
All other drives run a wet sump with the gears spinning in the oil like a prop!!
The reason you need the heaver viscosity!!
I have run over 1000 HP on #4 drives!! The only oil on the market that would keep the drives alive is amsoil!!!
This was not a guess we blew up drives under 25 hrs and fried gears with just about every oil out there.
Mercury mineral oil was the worst!! AS far as I know Mercusier builds drives and does not have a oil refinery.
Royal Purple is a joke!! Very short term protection and does not like water!!
Swepco and torco were pretty good!!
RedLine was close but a shorter life than others..
You dont need to add anything to Amsoil!! The reason most oil works better with The Lucas additives is it holds more oil on the gears longer.. If you run a higher viscosity than you really need your just robbing horse power!!!
The best upgrade you can do to a high HP on a bravo drive is to install the pump and external cooler system which increases the capacity while keeping the oil from boiling!!!
Just My 2 on 30 yrs of breaking anything that cant be broken!!
The drysumps have oil pumps that spray the gears!!
This is the reason you can run a lighter weight oil !!
All other drives run a wet sump with the gears spinning in the oil like a prop!!
The reason you need the heaver viscosity!!
I have run over 1000 HP on #4 drives!! The only oil on the market that would keep the drives alive is amsoil!!!
This was not a guess we blew up drives under 25 hrs and fried gears with just about every oil out there.
Mercury mineral oil was the worst!! AS far as I know Mercusier builds drives and does not have a oil refinery.
Royal Purple is a joke!! Very short term protection and does not like water!!
Swepco and torco were pretty good!!
RedLine was close but a shorter life than others..
You dont need to add anything to Amsoil!! The reason most oil works better with The Lucas additives is it holds more oil on the gears longer.. If you run a higher viscosity than you really need your just robbing horse power!!!
The best upgrade you can do to a high HP on a bravo drive is to install the pump and external cooler system which increases the capacity while keeping the oil from boiling!!!
Just My 2 on 30 yrs of breaking anything that cant be broken!!




