75/110 vs. 80/90 is my guess. More cushion for da pushin'.

Ive only ran it last season, as it was my first season with the new to me boat and it seems fine to me. I'm over powering my XR's with IMCO lowers by a good amount like everyone else and I don't expect it to help save me from that but I'm planning on running it again this year.

I also have the trick billet aluminum top caps from Max Machine Works on the uppers and have drive temp gauges as well. One drive had a stock finned cap when I bought it and it always ran 20* hotter than the drive with the billet cap on it....put a new billet cap on that one so they match and viola the drive temps are the same now.

NEO here. Same setup as above (Drive temp gauges, wags billet internally cooled caps, external showers), with addition of drive guardians.

I always thought Redline was the $hit, expensive and good, their marketing certainly makes it seem like a good choice.

I bought a 5 gallon bucket in 2015 of the heavy shockproof.

My drive guy says it has no shear strength which Redline vehemently disagrees with.

These lower gears were new 4 years ago.:
Have to be replaced because of wear and unable to shim them.
Surveyor says improper shimming, drive guy says wear and tear... who knows.





Plus the prop shaft sheared right off:



Going with this now:




Chris where do you get the NEO stuff ?

This is interesting. My old style XR upper has a flat top cap. Not many are running drive temp gauges for real comparisons. Do you have drive showers? Is this cap an easy bolt on? BTW, I use the Mercury HP Gear Lube.

Bravo Shop carries NEO.

Good deal, should be just fine in all OE Bravo1's w/external showers behind 7.4 LX MPI Mercs Then.

Curious to know what goes into installing drive temp. Gauges?

I use the Merc Stuff. But I'm probably not on the ragged edge of Bravo use at 565HP....

Brad Penn 20-50 semi synthetic or VR1 20-50 full syn ??

In the drive??