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353 Deck/Hull bond? Anyone have a loose rub-rail

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Old 11-22-2016 | 06:11 AM
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If you don't mind me asking what is Formula charging for the tubes of adhesive. Also are you guys planning on just doing the effected areas or opening up the entire side of the boat and replacing it all?
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Old 11-22-2016 | 08:08 AM
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They are charging $39/tube (2 tubes required) and $36 shipping. Free tool rental with deposit.

They said to do the affected area. To lift the deck would be a real PITA.

I've removed the first few thru bolts at both ends of the affected area to get a little extra bond.

Regarding the old stuff, I think mine had the deck set when after the material started to cure - like they went to lunch before setting the deck. NO squeeze out, just looked like someone caulked it. Only bonded to one side or the other. For the most the old plexus just fell out of the joint when I touched it with a putty knife. My joint is totally clean with only a putty knife in under 30 mins, that's how poorly it was bonded. Nothing like taking RTV off an oil pan, this was super easy to clean.

Formula took a bog risk with this stuff. In the automotive industry we do a lot of aging and durability testing, I don't think this really happens in the boating world or this would not have happened. Structural Bonding is a Huge deal and owners would not be bonding their cars back together even 15 yrs down the road - the manufacturer would be responsible for the repair (with NHTSA oversight).
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Old 11-23-2016 | 04:01 PM
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That is a fairly good deal they are giving on the product at least and the tool is over 1000 dollar tool so again it is good to see them at least stepping up in a small way. The stuff I used for my bottom repair was around 200 a tube and I used over 13 tubes. When you use the gun you do not need a lot of pressure and again I can not stress enough (because Plexus stressed it to me) make sure the shop and boat are warm. Don't just pull the boat into a warm shop and do the repair, make sure the boat is up to temperature and so on. This is because the reaction with the plexus when the two parts mix creates heat and the bond is dependent on heat.
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Old 11-23-2016 | 04:37 PM
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Good to know!

Had the boat ready to go today, except that the material didn't make it . Shipping Dept error.

Have the boat in a heated barn, was setup to hit 65-70 for 8 hrs prior to application, Normally its at 55.

Trying to figure out how to thru bolt, or use a self tapping backer plate to help get the joint compressed a bit and help to support the joint over time. If i cant figure it out, I'll rely on only the glue to hold like Formula did or just use#12/14 sheet metal screws to add something to the bond.
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Old 11-23-2016 | 06:51 PM
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On the 382 they used a flat head countersunk sheet metal screw every 18" or so to draw the joint together. This joint, if done correctly, needs no additional bolts or screws. On a 382 there is a 1/4-20 machine screw tapped into a aluminum plate installed after the joint is finished. The rub rail is sheet metal screws. Use 2" blue tape and paper on your hull side. You want to squeeze down but not tight. Some will ooze out and drip....perfect...
MAKE SURE YOUR PLEX IS NOT OUT OF DATE OR EXPIRED!!!!!
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Old 11-23-2016 | 08:18 PM
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Yup the stuff has VERY short shelf life.
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Old 11-25-2016 | 08:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Audiofn
Yup the stuff has VERY short shelf life.
I hope they at least check that before shipping it.

On the 353 there are no structural bolts or screws between the back end of the windshield to the big hatch i front of the windshield (about 14 feet). Is the 382 similar?

Attached a few pics. One shows how big the the holes got from the rub rail movement. It's also the only spot on either side that had the plexus adhere at all (gel pulled off).

The other pic shows the 1/4" 20's up front then just holes to the back of the windshield (hard to see in the little pic).
Attached Thumbnails 353 Deck/Hull bond?  Anyone have a loose rub-rail-img_3084.jpg   353 Deck/Hull bond?  Anyone have a loose rub-rail-img_3079.jpg  
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Old 11-25-2016 | 08:52 AM
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Can you get to the back side and glass it togather?
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Old 11-25-2016 | 08:55 AM
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I wish I could glass it, the factory couldn't access the area to even thru bolt it. The Plexus route allows them a lot more freedom in that regard.
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Old 11-25-2016 | 09:54 AM
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Fix it better then the factory's first failed attempt and enjoy your boat. If memory serves me correct, there is a member on here that bought a 382 new and went to the factory and had them thru bolt, or process like thru bolt, the entire deck while he watched to avoid this specific problem. They know there was a production issue, they just can't say anything for liability. As far as future issues, you are aware of the engine liner problem a few other owners detailed. It seems these issues have only shown up in the early 353s and 382s. I haven't seen owner postings from 2003 and up boats, doesn't mean there isn't a problem it just doesn't seem as prevalent. Formula does make a nice boat, someone was out to lunch on the Plexus process and quality control during that early production time frame though.
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