353 Deck/Hull bond? Anyone have a loose rub-rail
11-25-2016 | 11:13 AM
#31
Thread Starter
Registered
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 479
Likes: 20
From: Lake St. Clair, MI
Found a Great Video form Plexus : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mSopZ-0ByPg showing how to apply the stuff. Makes me feel better that if properly applied that it forms a very strong bond. The stuff I took off was nothing at all like what was shown in the video, the plexus on my boat iterally fell off.
I just received my Plexus and gun. I think Formula forgot to send me the mixing tips? They must have radically changed the tube style, as the gun they shipped is $63 at http://www.jamestowndistributors.com...ct.do?pid=4886 - I have a $200 deposit on the rental.
I just received my Plexus and gun. I think Formula forgot to send me the mixing tips? They must have radically changed the tube style, as the gun they shipped is $63 at http://www.jamestowndistributors.com...ct.do?pid=4886 - I have a $200 deposit on the rental.
Last edited by snowrunner; 11-25-2016 at 11:38 AM.
11-29-2016 | 09:32 AM
#33
Banned
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 3,259
Likes: 1
From: Bell Canyon, CA
I think because the interior is mostly built up with the deck off, and then Plexus bead added and set and screw the deck on.
12-25-2016 | 09:34 PM
#36
Thread Starter
Registered
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 479
Likes: 20
From: Lake St. Clair, MI
I think the epoxy approach is definitely easier, but not necessarily better than glassing it.
Just re-bonded the boat last Thursday, went well - I think. Used 1 tube per side, didn't skimp of the product at all. Used 1/4 x 1 1/2 stainless lag bolts every 18" to secure the joint. Couldn't thru bolt,due to lack of access. The head and storage shown in the deck pic above would explain why there is no access.
Overall was a 4-6 hr project, as scraping the original material took longer than the application of the epoxy. In my case, nearly all of the original material just fell off when I hit it with a putty-knife. My experience with adhesives would lead me to believe that the original product began to cure prior to setting the deck to hull, but that is just my opinion.
Overall this was a straight forward process, as I wedged the deck/hull apart to make it easy to get the tip in there. Used some making tape and plastic drop-cloth to keep from messing up the hull. Had the building/boat heated to 70F for 12 hrs prior to application, 48 hrs after for curing.
The original material was brown like a tootsie roll, the MA-2045 applied/dried blue - thinking the new stuff is a different material form the original.
Fingers are crossed, hoping everything was done correctly and that it holds for the life of the boat.
Just re-bonded the boat last Thursday, went well - I think. Used 1 tube per side, didn't skimp of the product at all. Used 1/4 x 1 1/2 stainless lag bolts every 18" to secure the joint. Couldn't thru bolt,due to lack of access. The head and storage shown in the deck pic above would explain why there is no access.
Overall was a 4-6 hr project, as scraping the original material took longer than the application of the epoxy. In my case, nearly all of the original material just fell off when I hit it with a putty-knife. My experience with adhesives would lead me to believe that the original product began to cure prior to setting the deck to hull, but that is just my opinion.
Overall this was a straight forward process, as I wedged the deck/hull apart to make it easy to get the tip in there. Used some making tape and plastic drop-cloth to keep from messing up the hull. Had the building/boat heated to 70F for 12 hrs prior to application, 48 hrs after for curing.
The original material was brown like a tootsie roll, the MA-2045 applied/dried blue - thinking the new stuff is a different material form the original.
Fingers are crossed, hoping everything was done correctly and that it holds for the life of the boat.
