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Old 12-16-2011 | 07:12 AM
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I will have to look better at the rods. The crank is in really good shape. It just needs to be polished. I didn't really spend much time going over them since I knew I wasn't going to use them. I will check them out and get back with you. The crank is a Gen VI and I'm pretty sure the rods are 6.385.
Eddie
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Old 12-16-2011 | 12:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Young Performance
I will have to look better at the rods. The crank is in really good shape. It just needs to be polished. I didn't really spend much time going over them since I knew I wasn't going to use them. I will check them out and get back with you. The crank is a Gen VI and I'm pretty sure the rods are 6.385.
Eddie

Please do.
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Old 12-16-2011 | 12:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Griswald
Please do.
Ill get with Eddie on all this....
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Old 12-16-2011 | 12:55 PM
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Originally Posted by TRL505
Ill get with Eddie on all this....
Thanks
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Old 12-16-2011 | 03:31 PM
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Come on Eddie weres the pics and info , its getting boring here .
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Old 12-16-2011 | 04:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Downtown42
I shared this with my good neighbor who builds car engines. Not marine but he knows more than me.

And hang in there you're in the home stretch with Ed.


First thing noted is welding on heads??????



If I built 975 hp motor this would be NEW HEADS not welded on used ones…….

Gotta pay to play….









next reply
I know from my dealings that eagle rods ARE not the best and are used on lots of BUDGET Builds on cars … they work fine on them….. but 900 hp supercharged boat



9PSi that’s big league stuff



Hi HP stuff should look elsewhere for parts…..



Again……



there is risk with performance parts every time you turn the key



Bet your glad it was not your boat…. OUCH
A couple reasons for welding on new heads, big fat double taper push rods require alot more room passing through the head... grind away until clearanced then weld the intake port wall back shut that broke through. I'd rather have a strong valve train with a little weld on a intake port. Intake port floors are sometimes welded to increase charge velocity, mostly on NA motors though. I'm sure there are other reasons as well including porosity in the castings. Big inch motors are truly custom.
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Old 12-18-2011 | 05:39 PM
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While you are correct, that is not the case here. There are no custom, big tapered pushrods, no port floor welding, etc. This is nothing exotic. I believe the chambers were welded after it smoked a piston(s). Again, these are nothing special. They are nothing that hasn't been done before by several builders. All in all, it's a pretty easy build.


Thanks everyone else for your interest and confidence in me. I took quite a few pics when the engines were taken apart. I will not post them. I sent them to Eric and what he does with them is his choice. I don't want to be accused again of attempting to throw anyone under the bus
There isn't really much to report right now. They are apart and awaiting parts. I will be glad to post some pics as soon as there is something to take a picture of.
Thanks,
Eddie
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Old 12-20-2011 | 03:33 PM
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Another thought

Put a flow meter in the fuel line. Plumb the line right back to the tank after all the filters and coolers and a temporary orifice. The orifice should only allow the max fuel your engine could possibly use. Turn the pump on. Drive the boat around town to simulate water conditions. Up, down, bumpy, L and R while recording the data. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b-MDnwzTJR8 This will verify pump ability and if there are any restrictions inline somewhere that get bounced into the wrong spot at times and/or a fuel pump that is intermittent under certain conditions.

When the engines are running in neutral, wiggle, rattle, pull and tug every wire HARD, every spot possible, from the helm to the engines and watch tach/listen for anything weird.

I had an alarm go off on my boat sporadically with no codes stored. Usually when warm. I put a wrench on all the grounds and one on the bulkhead tightened a half turm, maybe. That solved the alarm. I see this on cars all the time. Things look good, and may even be tight. Take the connections apart, clean them, reinstall and problem gone.

I own a transmission shop. We flush all coolers before reinstalling the trans. Sometimes we still have to replace them. I've seen coolers flow well cold to hot then all of a sudden slow down due to something in the cooler that just moved to the wrong spot. After a bit it magically starts flowing again.
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Old 12-22-2011 | 04:12 PM
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TRL: Everyone's focused on what's happened, but what about what's planned. I know Eddie said parts are on order, where are you headed? Staying 540ci or going larger? Is Eddie just going to make these bomb proof or is there more in the works while he's in there?
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Old 12-27-2011 | 01:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Jpzaluski
TRL: Everyone's focused on what's happened, but what about what's planned. I know Eddie said parts are on order, where are you headed? Staying 540ci or going larger? Is Eddie just going to make these bomb proof or is there more in the works while he's in there?
Eddie Correct me if Im wrong here...

We are going to 555ci....holes are to far out to hone...this should give us room for a couple more re-builds on down the line. We upgraded to Howard Rods...and I dont know if Eddie went with a Callies Crank or a Lunati...or Howard. Last we spoke he was weighing out the options on which one to go with. We will need a different cam...cam that is currently in motor is incorrect. Eddie feels that with the bottom end he is building..motors will be good up to 1200hp. We are hoping for close to 1000hp on this build. The heads will be the limiting factor. Once he flows the heads he can get a better idea on potential HP..as well as which cam he is gonna go with. We are also switching to a distributerless ignition.

Basically we are getting new rotating assembly, re-bore block, gaskets, bearings etc..and re-using blower...lol.
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