Thad Allen's Apache + The Birth of the Cheetah Cat
#161
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From: Beautiful Fort Lauderdale www.cheetahcat.com
I don't know where the PP 38 mold ended up. I have heard several stories, one it sat outside for years.
Last edited by Steve 1; 05-10-2010 at 09:20 PM.
#162
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From: Beautiful Fort Lauderdale www.cheetahcat.com
As I understand 17, PP 38's were built, of those 14 were rigged by Powerplay and 3 went to Pat at Performance
Last edited by Steve 1; 05-10-2010 at 09:20 PM.
#163
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From: Beautiful Fort Lauderdale www.cheetahcat.com
On the floor beside the fixture is a scrive board that sat on a pair of horses this is where the frames were built,
it is exactly like a piece of the loft with a wood strip for a base line and the vertical center line was a pencil line ,I used open frames on this instead of cutting them out of solid plywood as I needed to be able to reach through to fasten the Core. I am still setting up and building at the same time.
it is exactly like a piece of the loft with a wood strip for a base line and the vertical center line was a pencil line ,I used open frames on this instead of cutting them out of solid plywood as I needed to be able to reach through to fasten the Core. I am still setting up and building at the same time.
Last edited by Steve 1; 05-10-2010 at 09:20 PM.
#164
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From: Beautiful Fort Lauderdale www.cheetahcat.com
This by Steve Wilson ; i mentioned this earlier, Dannys to detail at PP is what made his product superior in terms of fit and finish - the design was a rough-water dominator, NOTHING would keep up with that hull design when the going got tuff...if i remember correctly, the 32 Cobra kicked butt on bigger boats in its day!
Last edited by Steve 1; 05-10-2010 at 09:22 PM.
#165
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From: Beautiful Fort Lauderdale www.cheetahcat.com
I used 1"x3" Pine for battens to strip this simple fixture ,A couple reasons, first I was using #14 Screws to mount the Core and had to drill like a thousand holes in the battens and was trying to avoid the ole break here (worst place and time) syndrome, Second they provided the stiffness needed when the core was drawn up no unnecessary humps and hollows would be created in the fairing.
Also you can see how the lofting repaid me for the day spent drawing and quarts of coffee by the way those pine battens laid down fair and on every frame.
Also you can see how the lofting repaid me for the day spent drawing and quarts of coffee by the way those pine battens laid down fair and on every frame.
Last edited by Steve 1; 05-10-2010 at 09:23 PM.
#166
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From: Beautiful Fort Lauderdale www.cheetahcat.com
Another picture of the Fixture going together, Not shown here was a simple water level 5 Gallon bucket of tinted water and a hose it allowed me to work by myself , the trapezoidal shaped box supports once leveled so I was happy with it a small skirt was shot on . getting close to core time.
Last edited by Steve 1; 05-10-2010 at 09:23 PM.
#167
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From: Beautiful Fort Lauderdale www.cheetahcat.com
Checking Dads work, This had to be open for Core mounting and to release it at the end as well , the same time stiff enough to hold shape,I sheeted the steps in solid that way a screw could be placed anywhere need to keep it dead flat.
Last edited by Steve 1; 05-10-2010 at 09:24 PM.
#168
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From: Beautiful Fort Lauderdale www.cheetahcat.com
Core Testing up to this time (before Corecell) I used Airex R63.80 here is some testing Via Drop Hammer.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DRzyw0Jo8Zg
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DRzyw0Jo8Zg
Last edited by Steve 1; 05-10-2010 at 09:24 PM.
#169
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From: Beautiful Fort Lauderdale www.cheetahcat.com
Regarding core laminate: Let's say with the 1/2" core material a 1708 was called for on your boat and making the inside laminate a 1/3 lighter was the norm in those days But there is a real "iffy" part where Balsa and Divinycell are concerned these materials provide good stiffness But!!!!!!!!!!!!!! http://www.gurit.com/page.asp?sectio...ynamic+Loading
You can see on the simple graph where the Balsa failed and by reducing the laminate the effect would move the failure zone down and greatly narrow that shadow/safe zone area to a sliver ,,, Now the range of you driving the Bullet (I Have seen the Pictures)would eclipse that graph like the rocky mountains in appearance. the linear foams like Corecell and Airex behave like Steel and bend they tend to follow Hooks Law.
Corecell you can deform the cells @60% and Airex @80% Your move to 1208 also reduced the laminate cross section where the buckling mode entered its ugly head, maybe a 3/4" Balsa Core would have avoided that problem. The samples in the testing were skinned out panels to more represent a actual hull.
You can see on the simple graph where the Balsa failed and by reducing the laminate the effect would move the failure zone down and greatly narrow that shadow/safe zone area to a sliver ,,, Now the range of you driving the Bullet (I Have seen the Pictures)would eclipse that graph like the rocky mountains in appearance. the linear foams like Corecell and Airex behave like Steel and bend they tend to follow Hooks Law.
Corecell you can deform the cells @60% and Airex @80% Your move to 1208 also reduced the laminate cross section where the buckling mode entered its ugly head, maybe a 3/4" Balsa Core would have avoided that problem. The samples in the testing were skinned out panels to more represent a actual hull.
Last edited by Steve 1; 05-10-2010 at 09:27 PM.
#170
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From: Beautiful Fort Lauderdale www.cheetahcat.com
Starting to hang 1" Airex core ,The Bandsaw in back on the left is my 36" Northfield that I just left running as the core is scribed and cut, this goes real quick .The Important thing here is to make sure the Cladding is screwed on tight and 100% in contact with the fixture.
I will leave the bottom open so it will be easy for me to reach through and screw the Tunnel material tightly in place, this will be one piece of 1" Core bent in place from the center of the tunnel across and up to the tunnel chine on each side. the difference in color was back in those days they sprayed the Airex sheets one by one with Cobalt naphthenate to hasten the curing of the hotcoat resin which is a must when using Airex.
I will leave the bottom open so it will be easy for me to reach through and screw the Tunnel material tightly in place, this will be one piece of 1" Core bent in place from the center of the tunnel across and up to the tunnel chine on each side. the difference in color was back in those days they sprayed the Airex sheets one by one with Cobalt naphthenate to hasten the curing of the hotcoat resin which is a must when using Airex.
Last edited by Steve 1; 05-10-2010 at 09:27 PM.


