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Hard on the Drives???

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Old 02-12-2014 | 09:11 PM
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Originally Posted by abmotorman
Dude, please don't comment on drag racing. I've been racing for years and find this comment offensively ignorant.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HOmXCbVIU_c
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Old 02-12-2014 | 09:15 PM
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I don't get it. This is exactly how I tell everyone to drive a boat with more power than this one but with Arnesons!
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Old 02-12-2014 | 11:35 PM
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Default Things I learned on the internet this week:

Tires don`t magically spin and hook up, you can`t break concrete with a sledge hammer and longer boats go faster with same power as shorter boats.
GOT IT!
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Old 02-13-2014 | 08:15 AM
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"Dude, please don't comment on drag racing. I've been racing for years and find this comment offensively ignorant."

Who gives a phuck what you think. What I stated was from personal experience.

The concrete that I tried to break up was 6" high quality and embedded in the ground. It would not crack no matter how hard or often you hit it with a sledge.

This is my Mustang. Those are wrinkle wall slicks. It hooks up. No wheel hop.

Last edited by thirdchildhood; 02-13-2014 at 09:29 AM.
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Old 02-13-2014 | 08:21 AM
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Its not the fall (spinning) that kills you, its the sudden stop (hookup) at the end....
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Old 02-13-2014 | 08:38 AM
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First in to use the term "shock load" in an argument about shock load.

And then we have things like yield failure and fatigue failure, plastic deformation, work hardening, etc.

Spicer Truck axle literature, warning of exposure to harsh handling conditions as a cause of premature axle failure:

http://www2.dana.com/pdf/AXSM-0020.PDF

Does Mercruiser have a similar warning in the outdrive manuals?

Last edited by Speedracer29; 02-13-2014 at 09:35 AM.
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Old 02-13-2014 | 10:15 AM
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Look, maybe the slo-mo video was confusing. That's ok. Since your car doesn't even have a cage, has t-tops and "racing" tires look to have Ford's recommended tire pressure, I don't expect you to magically agree with us. Word of advise, t-tops and slicks on a prepped track (if you car is making over 350hp) is not a good thing. Notice, you're the only one still tugging this rope??? (Had to put a boat reference in here) My car that has those fancy dancy tires, makes 950HP, has a cage, and is allow to run 9's all day, spin's and hooks.
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Old 02-13-2014 | 10:31 AM
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FYI those are ET streets not even true slicks. When you race real cars you run slicks bolted to the rim. Stock mustang with t tops no suspension work and some "drag tires" doesn't classify as a race car. The driving over shingles or tree bark cant tell for sure but it isn't good for soft compound tires either.

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Old 02-13-2014 | 10:57 AM
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Originally Posted by abmotorman
Look, maybe the slo-mo video was confusing. That's ok. Since your car doesn't even have a cage, has t-tops and "racing" tires look to have Ford's recommended tire pressure, I don't expect you to magically agree with us. Word of advise, t-tops and slicks on a prepped track (if you car is making over 350hp) is not a good thing. Notice, you're the only one still tugging this rope??? (Had to put a boat reference in here) My car that has those fancy dancy tires, makes 950HP, has a cage, and is allow to run 9's all day, spin's and hooks.
Ha, I remember years ago I had a 78 Trans Am. No subframe connectors, T-Top car. Was a weekend cruiser. Built up the 400 Pontiac with heads, cam, exhaust, higher stall converter, etc. Took it to the track for test and tune. First time I launched from the tree, I thought the windshield was gonna crack. Made a few passes that night, and put a nice crease in the roof sheetmetal.
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Old 02-13-2014 | 11:05 AM
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Originally Posted by MILD THUNDER
While I see absolutely no good reason to do full throttle starts, what do you think they do during powerboat testing and performance reports? I'd probably rather buy a 33 Fountain with 496's that had some full throttle starts on a small lake or river, over the 33 with 496's that ran it offshore in big water like great lakes or the ocean getting it airborne every weekend.

Many times drives break not because of HP. Prop pitch, boat weight, prop style, x dimension, etc. Perfect example is the 42 Fountains with the dry sump 6 drives coupled to the 700SCI. The 700SCI isn't busting the drive. Its the high propshaft height, 6 blade props, high pitch, rough water etc. Then there are guys with dry sump 6's running a lot more hp through them on a 41 apache with no issues.

I can tell you from a friend who's developed a product, that you will see on the market very soon, the engine isn't breaking the drives in most cases. When you have torque sensors hooked to your driveshaft measuring the torque readings live and logged into a laptop, on flat ass calm water, the most the drivetrain will see is whatever the engine produces. Get into any kind of chop/rough water, even at moderate speeds, and you'll find the torque spikes on the drivetrain to be in the thousands of ft lbs.

Think of it this way. You can take a bone stock mustang and floor it from redlight to redlight without wheel spin, and the trans,rear axles will most likely take it all day long. Now, dump that clutch and let those tires break loose, spinning and smoking until they bite, and see how long before you smoke a rear end or snap an axle. Happens all the time in the big truck world. You can have a big old Kenworth with a 600 cummins in it, loaded to 80k+ lbs, and boost it up with your foot to the floor all day getting up to speed or climbing a mountain. Get that truck off the pavement in some loose gravel or mud, and get some wheel spin going while your foots on the throttle. That's when the service truck has to come out to replace a busted axle or pinion gear.

Take a slab of concrete and you can park a semi truck on it and not crack it. Smack it hard enough with a 20 lb sledge hammer and watch it crack. Concrete is strong, but brittle. Much like gears and shafts.
What kind of product is your buddy coming out with?? We have been toying with the idea of torque limiters by means of a friction plate slip clutch.
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