What if my relocator has the ford threads on it accepting the FRAM HP 1?? What would be a good choice to use then?

I think this whole oil thing is beaten to death. And that filter has worked fine for years...

You can go right to AMSOIL's website, and to filter cross referencing. Due to the density of the AMSOIL filters, they don't make one to replace the "racing" filters. Here is a link to that cross reference page. And yes, the threads are the same on the 52 as the others, however, as I stated, the pressure valves and I believe the gasket dimensions are different. If you cross those numbers you had posted, nothing comes up. I will triple check today for everyone.

http://www.amsoil.com/AmsoilLookups/...rCrossRef.aspx

Had to do a little cross referencing. The HP1 is the same as a WIX 51515R, which is the racing version of the 51515, which cross references to the AMSOIL EAO15.

Yes, it crosses to the 51515, but not the 51515R. Those Wix numbers are two totally different filters. Here are links to the two different filters. There are major differences between the two.

http://wixfilters.com/filterlookup/P...sp?Part=51515R

http://wixfilters.com/filterlookup/P...asp?Part=51515

Hydrocruiser:

I assume the "Pure-1 (Amazon)" you mention is the Purolator Pure-1 oil filter? How did you arrive at the conclusion that this filter is good enough for you to endorse? Any test data?

Thanks

Perhaps I over simplified the comparison, both filters are designed for the same motor, but there are design differences between stock and racing filters. The key difference between most stock and racing filters is the filter media. In order to increase flow as required by a high performance engine, filter manufacturers use a media with more open space per square inch to reduce back pressure. This of course allows larger particles to pass through the filter, in the links you so graciously provided, I noted that the stock filter is a 21 micron filter and the racing filter is a 61 micron rating. The key to selecting an optimal filter is to find one with both high flow capability and smaller particle filtering. This is why I prefer the Amsoil / Donaldson filters, the synthetic media they use has a finer fiber which allows them to keep the mesh size small but still provides the open space per square inch desired for higher flow.

So if you are not running a high volume pump would it be more benificial to have the non racing(51515) being it shows it as a 20 micron filter. The 51515R is only good for 61 microns.

Honestly I dont need 28 GPM so the better filtration would be better in my thinking.

What would you guys say??

As a stock filter ages, it will load up and add back pressure to your oil system. When this starts to happen, the bypass will open. This will occur when the engine is running at the highest rpm or when you don't want it to the most.

I'm not saying that stock filters and factory oil are bad, I'm only saying that state of the art synthetic oil and filters are better. I use to have an auto repair business several lifetimes ago and it wasn't uncommon to rebuild an engine when it hit 80,000 miles. I've seen more engines then I care to remember with sludge so thick you had to use a chisel to get it off. Today my vehicles with over 200,000 are as good as new, and nobody drives a vehicle harder then I do. I have run compression checks on motors after 225,000 and all cylinders were within +/-1.5 pounds and right at factory. My suburban has over 200,000 on it and I fully expect to get over 500,000 before I sell it. Now I don't have a couple mil in the bank and I work hard for each dollar so I try to keep as many of them as I can. I've done the math and I save a ton running synthetic oil in everything. For example, I've been running synthetic in my lawnmower since it was new, that was 26 years ago, the thing still starts the first pull and that's with the original sparkplug. Synthetic saves more then just mechanical wear, it will also save your starter, especially if you live in the northern states, it reduces the load on the starter on those -10 days. Do the math yourself, unless your leasing your boat or you plan on unloading on some poor sucker, take care of it and I won't have to tow you in when it breaks.

I ran a 330 hp 454 in a Velocity- 1,600 hours on engine with M1 for the first 500 hours then Amsoil 20w-50 for the last 1100 hours. the engine was fine when i pulled it, still good compression and power- I just wanted more power :) Nobody would buy an engine with that many hours so I traded it to a local machine shop for some labor credits.