motor

iTrader: (3)

I agree with Mike .If you are getting a teaspoon of water in the bottom of headers after shutdown, could just be sweat .That cam isn't near big enough and has wide lobe centers to be a problem .FWIW when I run a seawater equipped motor I let the motor take all the water it wants out of a three hundred gallon tank through 1 1/4" hose.You'd be surprised how quick it will empty the tank .If I were you I would stick the motor in and run your boat..JMO

SB

iTrader: (1)

It's true. Engine's in garage's revert more than in a boat.

mike tkach

iTrader: (3)

there you go budman,you have been told from two wise men and my dumb azz.

buck35

Looks like 3 sages to me, go boatn and enjoy your creation you've earned it

SB

iTrader: (1)

What the hell is this crap below ?

Slip on ? Not welded ?

And holes spraying straight down into exhaust stream ?

Huh ? I don't get why, Yuk !

Yeh, I finally looked at your pics. I'm kinda horrified.

liquidlounge

iTrader: (1)

Have you noticed any less water with the diverter closed and running through the Y pipe? If your Y pipe shutters are in good shape, it may very well help with your reversion. Shutters and flappers can have a check valve effect; allowing the engine to exhale while making it a little more difficult on the inhale(reversion). I'm only saying that this may lessen your reversion with your existing system. Any engine with valve overlap will have exhaust reversion, but I wouldn't think that your cam would be giving you big issues unless you have long idles through no wake zones. I wouldn't think your Lightnings would be contributing to your issue, BUT if you look at a CMI, the collector is dry and the water is plumbed into the tailpipe after a clever welded conical ring that looks to act as a dam as in the "turbulator" as found in the Merc 8.1 manifolds.

excal27

Have you checked your timing?

Budman II

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the replies, guys. It might come down to just running it and keeping an eye on the oil and the idle speed. Mike, I was idling it around 800 RPM most of the time. Might bump it up to 900 or so just to be safe, at least when not shifting. When I ran it for a little while last night, I looked up inside the collector and it was wet clear up to where the primaries connect to the collector. Now it did shut down on its own because I let the gas run out inadvertently, so it's possible that it took a big gulp while it sputtered to a stop. I had to quit for the night after I found a cross-threaded plug on the #7 cylinder (another long, sordid story). Still haven't been able to run it again until I deal with that.

I talked at length to Jan at Lightning, and he thinks I am pulling water in at the joint. These headers were originally designed for silent choice, but the slip in collectors are used for larger cams. He said to use silicon to seal that joint and see if that helps. He did not seem to think limiting water flow to the headers is an option, but many on here would disagree I am sure. SB, what modifications would you recommend on those collectors? I was seriously thinking about welding a bung on them to dump excess water and then close up a couple of those holes up on top. I agree that it does not seem like an optimal design to me, and I can't see where that much water out the exhaust is needed to cool the hoses and the tips.

Budman II

iTrader: (1)

Verified that timing is around 34*, with a 24* module and 10* initial timing. Guy at Lightning mentioned that some guys like to run more initial timing or even with timing locked all in to help with reversion. I have access to an HP500 20* module, which would allow me to bump up my initial timing. Would this help or hurt?

motor

iTrader: (3)

I think you are worrying to much ..Put the engine in..........don't overthink it