Does prop slip increase or decrease with speed? Top speed less than expected.
#112
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Nope. Still need to get the right fuel pump rod for it. I have the stock one but afraid to run it even for a test for fear of damaging the cam lobe.
Did you guys see my questions from over the weekend?
I did manage to find some time to run it on the hose yesterday. I ran it up to around 3200 RPM and watched the gauge, and it stayed steady around 6 PSI. I know that's not a real test, but it's better than the 4 PSI I was seeing without the engine running. I would have loved to have run it on the water, but ran out of daylight. Today might be the last decent day before the damned "polar vortex" descends on us, but I have to work.
Thanks for all the advice guys - you know I will update everyone when I get this sorted out.
Did you guys see my questions from over the weekend?
I did manage to find some time to run it on the hose yesterday. I ran it up to around 3200 RPM and watched the gauge, and it stayed steady around 6 PSI. I know that's not a real test, but it's better than the 4 PSI I was seeing without the engine running. I would have loved to have run it on the water, but ran out of daylight. Today might be the last decent day before the damned "polar vortex" descends on us, but I have to work.

Thanks for all the advice guys - you know I will update everyone when I get this sorted out.
#113
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Joined: Jun 2012
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From: OK CIty, OK
Nope. Still need to get the right fuel pump rod for it. I have the stock one but afraid to run it even for a test for fear of damaging the cam lobe.
Did you guys see my questions from over the weekend?
I did manage to find some time to run it on the hose yesterday. I ran it up to around 3200 RPM and watched the gauge, and it stayed steady around 6 PSI. I know that's not a real test, but it's better than the 4 PSI I was seeing without the engine running. I would have loved to have run it on the water, but ran out of daylight. Today might be the last decent day before the damned "polar vortex" descends on us, but I have to work.
Thanks for all the advice guys - you know I will update everyone when I get this sorted out.
Did you guys see my questions from over the weekend?
I did manage to find some time to run it on the hose yesterday. I ran it up to around 3200 RPM and watched the gauge, and it stayed steady around 6 PSI. I know that's not a real test, but it's better than the 4 PSI I was seeing without the engine running. I would have loved to have run it on the water, but ran out of daylight. Today might be the last decent day before the damned "polar vortex" descends on us, but I have to work.

Thanks for all the advice guys - you know I will update everyone when I get this sorted out.
#114
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#115
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Joined: Nov 2004
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From: On A Dirt Floor
Fuel psi in neutral is meaningless, even at 15,000 rpm...LOL.
No fuel volume needed with no load. HP requirements are near nil.
Atleast the pump put out 6psi with alternator running vs the 4lbs without it running.
No fuel volume needed with no load. HP requirements are near nil.
Atleast the pump put out 6psi with alternator running vs the 4lbs without it running.
#116
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From: Beaverton Or
Very articulate subject matter and more than you might want...
http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/...hp?f=55&t=1939
http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/...hp?f=55&t=1939
#117
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Pliant, that should keep me busy for a while. 
Anyone have a link to a good fuel pump rod? Trying to decide between the bronze tipped ones and the composite ones. Have seen a few having problems with the bronze ones mushrooming, but my guess would be that they are using Chinese junk to see that happen - much like the brass / bronze dist gears.
Can I plumb the mechanical pump in line with the existing electric pump and expect to see a change just for testing purposes, or is this asking for trouble? It would be easy to do - install pump and then just attache the AN lines that are currently connected together to the fuel pump.

Anyone have a link to a good fuel pump rod? Trying to decide between the bronze tipped ones and the composite ones. Have seen a few having problems with the bronze ones mushrooming, but my guess would be that they are using Chinese junk to see that happen - much like the brass / bronze dist gears.
Can I plumb the mechanical pump in line with the existing electric pump and expect to see a change just for testing purposes, or is this asking for trouble? It would be easy to do - install pump and then just attache the AN lines that are currently connected together to the fuel pump.
#118
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#120
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Starting to think that a sticky post for fuel systems similar to the one Arcticfriends posted for oiling systems might be in order. I am going to be looking for info on constructing a new tank pickup with 1/2 ID instead of the current 3/8", probably some kind of filter ahead of the pump is running electric, etc.


