My bottom end is fine for the horsepower I`m running.. any more and changes would have to be made, Im running what I got until something breaks.





Borgie; L19?

• ARP 8740 chrome moly rod bolt - a strong affordable rod bolt, but it has only a moderate fatigue life, which makes the ARP 2000 rod bolt which is in the same general price range, a much better choice since it has twice the fatigue life.

• ARP 2000 rod bolt - considering how good its strength and fatigue life are, this rod bolt is an excellent choice for most Hotrods, Street/Strip cars, and Sportsman Drag cars.

• ARP L19 rod bolt - the strength and fatigue life increases this bolt provides over the ARP 2000 are not significant enough to overcome the concerns the L19 has with hydrogen embrittlement, stress corrosion, and the fact that it CANNOT be exposed to any moisture, including sweat and/or condensation. Don’t forget that every engine forms condensation inside, at every cold start-up. Plus, oil rises to the top of, and floats on water because of density differences, which can leave portions of the rod bolts exposed to water even after the engine is built. Therefore, it is best to avoid the L19 rod bolt altogether, especially since the ARP 2000 rod bolt already provides way more than enough strength and fatigue life than is typically required by most Hotrods, Street/Strip cars, and Sportsman Drag cars. So, there simply is no good reason to select the ARP L19 rod bolt. If you are currently running L19 bolts, I’d suggest you consider replacing them with different bolts the next time you have the motor apart.

• ARP Custom Age 625+ rod bolt - a very pricey bolt, but with its excellent strength and its impressive fatigue life, this bolt is one of the very best rod bolts on the market.

• ARP 3.5 rod bolt - this bolt has excellent strength, but its staggering cost is 43% HIGHER than the 625+ bolt, yet the 625+ bolt is superior to the 3.5 bolt in virtually every way. So, there is no good reason to select the 3.5 bolt either.

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CONCLUSION and RECOMMENDATION

Of the 5 rod bolts above:

• The ARP 2000 rod bolt is an excellent value, considering how good its strength and fatigue life are. And it should be considered the rod bolt of choice for most Hotrods, Street/Strip cars, and Sportsman Drag cars, no matter how much HP they make. And this is why you most often see quality aftermarket rods come with these bolts.

• ARP Custom Age 625+ rod bolt has a price that is not for the faint of wallet, but it should be considered the rod bolt of choice for very high revving engines, road race engines, and endurance engines, which require the utmost in rod bolt strength and/or fatigue life.

Back to my oil pump, it looks like its already Melling select 10778 .

http://www.jegs.com/i/Melling/689/10...oductId=751586

That's a high volume standard pressure pump.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mel-10778/overview/

The 10778c is high volume and high pressure

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mel-10778c/overview/

good info as usual joe,i noticed that borgie is useing the L19 bolt in a build that will probibally be 600 hp or less.i was going to ask him why but i did not want to get him upset.i also noticed the rectangle port intake manifold he bought for his roval port heads but he claims the mis match wont matter.he also bought a schumann oil pump for this build.he is defenatly a guy who thinks outside of the box.imo,the 8740 rod bolt and a good mellings 10778 pump would be a better choice for his build but i don,t really like koolaid.i totally understand wanting good parts for a build but i also believe that one can spend way more than necessary on things that are not needed.

I know the 10778c has the anti-cavitation grooves, but is the only other difference between the two pumps the bypass spring? Melling used to make a pump in the Select line (I think it was 10777 or 10776) that was a standard volume and pressure, but shared the same hardened billet gears and shafts, and had the shaft extended through the cover like the 10778 line of pumps. I think it has been discontinued, because I could not find one when I was building my engine.

I am running the "roval" port design on my 265 AFR's, and went with an oval port Dart intake. I probably should have port matched them, but was told by several builders that it might be worth 10-15 hp on the top end. I was trying to get the thing built in time to dyno it and get it on the water, so I figured I probably wouldn't notice an increase that small out on the water.

Had a nice rectangle port Brodix single plane intake with brass water jackets that I wanted to run, but the port match would have been a problem. I'm thinking Borgie is probably running a larger intake port than mine, so maybe he can get away with it. Sounds like he is trying to go the extra mile for a durable build, but based on what i have seen written about the L19 bolts and moisture exposure, I would be a little nervous about that.

So you are saying Haxby is wrong? It's well known that a rectangular intake and large ovals work quite well, and yes the mismatch int bad. Also callies supplies their H beam 4340 rods with L-19's. Have had many discussions with individuals well versed in this arena(aka Engineers), and they all say the L-19 will be fine. So say what you like, I really don't care to be quite frank. I can however tell it's cold in Chicago. Meanwhile it's 82 here in phoenix, have fun with that.

I will add and note that this was written by a guy on a hot rod forum from his "research", to find the limits of certain rod bolts and what is "needed". He does not work for Callies or ARP, and to my knowledge is NOT an engineer. Some good info, but some is obviously interjected with his opinion. Just keeping this transparent for future members.

Do you have any data from the engineers regarding the use of the L19 bolts?

I don't think Mike was trying to insult you with his post. I think he was questioning why you chose the parts you did. Of course you took offense as usual.

I do see Callies only offers the compstar rod with the L19 bolts. All other H beam rod manufactures do have bolt options, as well as oliver and their I beam rods. I know manley stopped offering the L19 bolts in their rods last year I think.

I know you may think Mike Tkach or myself are morons. Mike has probably a few dozen engines out there ranging from 500hp to 1200hp using all different kinds of rod bolts, and many melling pumps without failure.

I simply asked the limits of the 8740 bolts in a 900hp blown marine setup spinning 6k rpm.