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Notice the height, this thing is huge. I didn't document exact cost but do remember it being around $200 for wood and galvanized hardware. It's stores easy against a wall when dismantled.

Thats pretty sweet ramos, could probably use an I beam and trolley on top for lateral adjustments. Hmmm

I wrapped grade 80 chain around 3 timesthen hung chain hoist. first motor out then unwrap chain, move over other engine and rewrap chain. I built this as modular as possible so easy to dis/ass. Only help needed is to pick it up to its upright position.

I made mine out of 3" and 2.5" square tube. The 2.5 " slides into the 3" so I can adjust it from 8' to 13' I used a 6" aluminum I beam on top with a trolley, I have 9' in between the posts.

I built one out of wood for about $120 in lumber. Most of the steel ones were A) too expensive for my limited use, and B) not high enough for my removal. I need 12 feet of overhead and that was barely enough to clear the oil pan over the transom.

The gantry didn't flinch when the motor was lifted. When I was done with the removal and install I chopped up the wood and used it in the fire pit.

My pole barn has a little over 11-feet overhead clearance, and I reinforced one of the trusses by sandwiching several 2x6's and also supported it with a post halfway across the span. Wrapped a heavy logging chain around it and attached a chain hoist, and up she went. It was pretty close rolling the boat out from under it. Had to go backwards first to allow the hatch to be closed, then forward to get the boat out from under it. I held my breath a little bit while the engine was hanging ten feet in the air. :eek:

Another thing that helped was outlining the exact position of the trailer tires on the garage floor. That allowed me to back it into almost the exact same spot, which made it much easier to reinstall the engine.

You will need to measure to see if you need more overhead clearance. If my boat was a little taller, or even if I had larger trailer tires, not sure if it would have worked.

I have 12 feet on the bottom of the rafters , pole building as well so I actually have probably 16 in the middle openings. Locating the trailer precisely is the key as you said so there is no armstronging it back into place.
how much clearance approximately does one need? Eyeballing mine looks like about 6and a half feet to the the rafter .

Used my Harbor Fright gantry about many times now. Paid for it's self a hundred times over.

That's what I paid to have mine puller and replaced. Then another couple hundred per drive to have everything checked out.

Anyone have suggestions on who else I can call around the Conroe area? Byron pulled one and its being rebuilt at Nickens brothers right now and I'm about to have other one pulled. Yesterday he said it was 750 out per and 750 back in per, thats 3k to remove and re-install two small block 350's:eek:

I could have swore that he made it clear that it was 750 in and out per side for 1500 to remove and install both.