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Quote:

Originally Posted by Black Baja (Post 4381983)

That's exactly why I bought my rods off amazon.

Are they "prime" rods ?

Quote:

Originally Posted by MILD THUNDER (Post 4381987)

Are they "prime" rods ?

They sure are. Funny thing is my buddy is a Callie's dealer and he told me his price and I said they were cheaper on Amazon. He got pissed off and said there was no way they were cheaper. I went over his house after work he got Callie's on speaker phone they told him the price (I thought he was trying to make a couple bucks on me) he wasn't. We looked the rods up on Amazon same part number and everything. Ordered them 2day shipping and they drop shipped right from Callie's...

Quote:

Originally Posted by MILD THUNDER (Post 4381975)

Ive seen a GM rod come apart at 6000rpm in a buddy of mines cat. It wasnt pretty.

The other thing i think that plays a role. Take 2 engines, both identical 900hp for example.

First engine goes in a boat that runs up and down the river all day, encountering the occasional pontoon wake. He runs hard, lots of wot time.

Engine 2, goes in a boat, that runs the ocean, great lakes, etc. Hes out there every weekend working the throttle like bob saccenti in and out of rough waters. His engine is rapidly decelerating, and accelerating quite often.

Which ones gonna be harder on rods, or more likely to break one ?

Start talking long stroke, long rod, heavy piston fire breathers beating it up offshore, you def dont want some ebay special rods in there

Thats a very good point as I fit profile #1 and generally boat on pretty smooth water,so I'm not thinking about the pounding they take in big water.

The 600 hp Volvo 540 used a crower 4.25 stroke crank and crower 6.135 rods I believe.

Quote:

Originally Posted by buck35 (Post 4381948)

Great demo, I guess the part I'm missing is the rod should be many times stronger than the bolt securing it due to shear mass, new bolts is a no brainer. I also see that if your wallet is over full then just go with new and be done with it, but that's not where the whole discussion began :flag:

the point i am trying to make is it would cost no more out of pocket to buy a set of NEW eagle rods with arp2000 bolts than it will cost to rebuild the OLD eagle rods with new arp2000 bolts after the old rods are sold for 200 bucks.it,s common sence,at the end of the story the op will have spent the same amount of money.

What if I`m emotionally attached to my current rods?

Quote:

Originally Posted by ICDEDPPL (Post 4382031)

What if I`m emotionally attached to my current rods?

in that case keep them (don't sell), and buy new rods for the engines! simple! best of both worlds!.

tkach;4382020]the point i am trying to make is it would cost no more out of pocket to buy a set of NEW eagle rods with arp2000 bolts than it will cost to rebuild the OLD eagle rods with new arp2000 bolts after the old rods are sold for 200 bucks.it,s common sence,at the end of the story the op will have spent the same amount of money.[/QUOTE]
Ok, I doubt its the same money, and I'm certainly no expert here, just adding to the dialog as this has been excellent discussion with no drama.

Paging thru some catalogs on these price related rods. Fwiw, heres what Im seeing. For 6.385 H Beam, with ARP2000 bolts except compstar, those have L19s.

Molnar 729 grams

Eagle 785 grams

K1 technologies 740 grams

Manley 810 grams

Engine pro 809 grams

Lunati 790 grams

Callies Compstar 816 grams

A visual difference I noticed, out of all of them, is the Callies Compstar rod, has a reinforced area on the cap. Design wise, they all about look the same. The Molnars and K1's, look to maybe have a slightly narrower beam. Thats just looking at various photos though.

Quote:

Originally Posted by buck35 (Post 4382054)

Ok, I doubt its the same money, and I'm certainly no expert here, just adding to the dialog as this has been excellent discussion with no drama.

Buck, Your average cost to rebuild a set of used rods, is around 150 bucks these days, give or take. . New ARP2000 bolts, are around 150 bucks as well. That's 300 dollars you're spending, to recondition, and upgrade your old rods, Eagles in Dan's case.

A brand new set of Eagles, are 500 bucks, WITH ARP 2000 bolts. Now, this new rod will also have to be checked out for roundness, , pin fitted, etc.

Dan could sell his old rods, on ebay, or whereever, and probably get 150-200 bucks easy. So, its a no brainer to me, to simply buy brand new rods, that havent been fatigued, etc. He does not know the history of them, how old they truly are, etc. If he was going to reuse them in a 500hp deal, maybe it be worth saving a couple bucks keeping them, but in a 900hp blower engine, ehhh,...its one thing to even use that rod in this application according to some, let alone saving a case of bud light worth of money, to rebuild the old stuff. I mean, I think he's fine either way, but sometimes, when its only a few bucks, going new is nice sometimes.

Just to give you an idea what is involved in reconditioning rods, look here

http://www.enginebuildermag.com/2007...nnecting-rods/