I've used its bigger brother on tall deck motors with great results. I'm doing a pair of 555 budget motors as soon as the weather changes. I'll use the sv565 intakes and some top secret cams I designed on my own should make 725ish hp.

Well keep us posted how builds go. "Secret ninja cams". Cool....

Any trial on comps 4 pattern hyd rollers?

I've been told by our dyno operator that builds motors which every last hp counts to "save your money".

Port engine should come out in the next couple days....at that point I will at least pull a valve cover and run a machinist edge across cylinders to see if exhaust seats are getting pounded into the head... from the things I am told the issues arise between 50-70 hours.. I am at 65 or 67, cannot remember

After a season on a new set of aluminum heads we have found it very beneficial to pull the heads and do a valve job. Even with very mild cams it seems as though things move around. After the first go round things seem to settle down and be good to go for awhile... If I was in your shoes I would just yank them and go through them. If you have mls gaskets don't hesitate to re-use.

I think what we have learned here, is that

A ''custom high lift cammed" 540ci , with AFR 325 heads, is no better, than a 565ci, with good flowing chinese 320cc heads, and a low lift hyd roller cam. The boat lost acceleration by dropping 25 cubes, and a longer duration cam. It gained nothing for top speed either.

The old 4.375x4.530 combo , with a refresh, and a cam upgrade, probably would have been the best bet.

I'm really not surprised by any of this. The procomp 320 heads he had, were if I recall, knock off's of the old pro topline/RHS/Engine quest line of heads. In stock form, they dynoed around 600hp on tims 565. Then later, he had Gellner do a valve job and cleanup on them. That there probably helped them out a little, and had he redynoed, he probably would have been very close to his "630HP" he has from bobs combo, with a bit more torque down low from the added cubes and smaller cam. Those procomp heads castings were not very good quality, but like everything pro comp did, was take a good design, and copy it. They made some decent power, and probably flowed really close to the afr 325's after the tune up they had.

I don't think theres going to be any magic here, to get him the results he wants, whether it be from a spacer, intake swap, or even cam swap. I'd focus on the health of the engine, making sure all is well there, and keep on boating until you can strap a blower on the thing, and get the results you want.

Spot on... Gonna do some checking when engine is out and see what things look like ...

Yeah cause Bobs valvetrain beats the **** out of the seats!! See you`re starting to figure it out!

I have never heard to fix aluminum heads after one season, ever.... I just don't see how that can be right

Bot a buddy running Brodix BB-2's and he hasn't had to do a thing to them.

Doesn't have anything to do with Bob. 90% of the stuff I've been messing with was all Comp cams. But lobes very similar to what Tim is running. Short duration higher lift. We run most of these engines with short travel lifters. What we have found is stuff moves in aluminum heads. After some run time and a new valve job it settles down and your good to go for awhile.

Some of the stuff we work on gets torn down every season and gets a valve job. Especially when they use copper beryllium seats with boost. Tucker seats and boost not so much.

Brodix Bb-3's T&D steel shafts. Crane 280,290 .721" .721" solid roller exhaust valves sunk .025" in one season.

I think when we started getting really good springs around 10 years ago, lobe design got a lot more daring and then confidence grew when durable lifters started appearing on the scene. The idea that too much cam intensity was being played down by some pretty smart people because it was working fine in certain applications. Good builders are now on high alert that something that may be very stable at 6k rpms can be very unstable at 3k! These characteristics don't translate well to the marine duty cycle. To my way of thinking, these improved springs and lifters have only now become compatible with the "conservative" and venerable Crane HR's in marine applications. If you are old enough to remember, then you will recall these same and now conservative Crane HR lobes breaking springs and tearing up lifters in marine applications. Now, because of better springs and lifters, the Crane HR's are the gold standard for reliable marine power. IMO they are about as intense while remaining quiet and reliable as most of us need to go. Now, after spewing all of this, I am close to finishing up a motor with Harold Brookshire's last design HR's. LOL

Harold Berkshire latest greatest design HR =Lunati ?? question not tryin to be smart

The other thing that seems so common now a days are aluminum heads? Does that potentially add to stability problems and aid in driving the valve seats til they find their happy place? Especially when we continue to take advantage agressive grinds to achieve maximum hp at or under 6k. I know it seems ancient to deal with a set of iron heads but maybe should be looked at more often especially for individuals who prefer less maintenance. Part of the solution could be bigger CI builds with less agressive grinds and some decent iron heads and a little less compression. Just an option....

Was looking them up last night to see if they had any new grinds. There is one or two of them I would like to try.

My head guys does say with lots of power ( high cylinder pressures )aluminum heads will "shimmy" and even lift slightly causing issues associated with movement.
His recommendation to solve that particular issue in endurance was Iron heads.

:fear:

Not sure if the VooDoo series is a lesser lift version of his last design or not. The VooDoos are definitely his though. Mine have a little more lift. I just want to try this latest version because I loved an old Ultradyne HR cam I had in a boat years ago. The last designs are claimed to be more stable with more intensity (more lift vs. gross duration) if that's possible. If it ends up being not real quiet on the dyno though, I'll pull the cam and use something from Crane.

I found an even easier way to stabilize my aluminum heads, just keep the power to a minimum........ works great for meeee

I almost pulled the trigger on the Voodoo 250/255 .636/.663 112lsa endurance grind.. $335 on a billet core, can`t beat that. I decided it wasn`t worth it over my 651 (244/256 .632)

Some nice results on the dyno sym thou

I think maybe this has been posted before in another thread (?)......found it interesting though what he says at the 4:08 mark. Sounds familiar.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X-7lgXGani4

Yeah we buy most of our heads bare and they are setup for the application. After a season of abuse things move around as I stated in previous posts.

That's just life in the big city! Actually very informative, for me at least.

I love my new Engine Quest Iron heads. After replacing my old aluminum darts with them, my engines did not go into a detonation frenzy due to chamber temperatures, my boat didnt do a back flip from the extra 150 lbs on the stern. Nobody has walked past the dock and laughed at me for no longer having "aluminum" heads, as if I am less of a high performance boater with iron castings.

I do not plan to "compensate" for my iron heads, by reducing boost levels, changing octane levels, timing , cam parameters, or any of that due to my heads being cast iron instead of cast aluminum.

As soon as I heard his voice I knew who it was. He has a lot of videos loaded with good info the average joe wouldn't have a clue. Also does a good job covering all the different heads we use, good, bad indifferent. Amazing how many assembled heads purchased ready to be so called bolt on ready are scary. I'd never think about buying heads complete from even the top 3 companies without having gone through them.

Best reason for aluminum is being able to repair, besides that flow, and all the rest is the same... Oh and when you break your chit all the time like me it's easier to lift tnem in the boat!!! Hahah

My motors are 9.5:1 iron heads 170-180 block temps run on 89 octane. The only advantage I see with aluminum is if you own a Fountain. Too much weight in the stern and it may sink.

I remember i posted one of his videos , that one in particular i believe, in regards to "out of the box heads". I immediately got a phone call from Bob M. I got filled in about how that guy is a complete moron. I then recieved an earful about how great afr's heads are, their manufacturing techniques, and how they are superior to brands like dart, and brodix.

I still stand behind , getting cylinder heads bare, and going thru them. The simple mistake of recieving a set of afr heads as full force tim did, ready to bolt on for a mild hyd roller engine, only to accidently stumble on the fact, they had solid roller springs with over 750lbs or whatever open pressure. We can talk about fancy valve seat cutters, or whatever equipment used, but at the end of the day, something as simple as installing the proper spring, was overlooked.

Holy chit. I missed that one. Wtf... I recall him upgrading springs to his hyd roller etc but not to stout solid roller springs.

They were supposed to be sent with hyd roller springs. One set of heads came with solid roller springs though.

See at 8:20 . Lol.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X-7lgXGani4

We are on page 56 BTW. :smile:

You guys still running 'out of the box' OSO??? page 19 for me, I ran OSO bare and added my own personalization. I hate flipping pages, paper cuts are greatly reduced

Yup, and I still clean my server with a towel.

Agree, I was told to buy bare and assemble and machine them to spec, I let Bob talk me otherwise against advice, but I was labeled the idiot lol

I learned that when you have 2#hg at wot you need a bigger cam because they have less vacuum. Right?

What ?

Elaborate a little